So I decided to check my fuel injectors to see if one of them had a low resistance to inject more fuel than they were suppose to. While I was doing this I accidently dropped a fuel rail hold down bolt into the intake manifold. Oops... So i try to get it out with a pair of needle nose pliers, and whoops... it goes into the cylinder head. Great, now I need to take off the lower intake manifold and the kitchen sink. So now that i can finally look at it the bolt is lodged behind the valve stem and it's not moving for anything... So i figure I can crank the car a couple of times to get the valve to move, so the bolt will move. Bad move... although I could get the bolt out, it messed up the valve seat (?!) and bent the valve stem. Not to mention it put a nice ding in my spark plug port in the cylinder head and the PISTON!

expand

expand

No need to fear, a very kind individual on allpar.com's forums by the name of fabinator gave me a head free of charge (although i had to pay for shipping, definately no biggie). After that head installation and a new fel-pro head gasket from autozone my car is back on the road, however the compression test runs 120-90-120 EEP! What's up with that middle cylinder? Hmm.. i take off the valve cover, torque down the head bolts as much as i can (and yes i followed the 45-65-1/4 turn torque sequence on ALL the bolts and came up with a torque reading of 90+ on all of them) and reassemble the valve cover. The compression test now reads 130-150-130... MUCH better and the engine sounds much peppier too. It was definately noticable through the air intake (i have a cone filter) because during the 120-90-120 I didn't hear the engine sucking in that much air at the lower rpm's but now I hear it at idle and at the lower-mid rpm's which lets me know it's much happier now.

Here's a URL to some tips on the front cylinder head replacement that the manuals don't mention. It could save you 1-2 hours and a lot of headache on your next 3.3 cylinder head job.
Link to 3.3 Cylinder Head Replacement Tips