Some write up's of some stuff that i actually took pics of, hopefully some of these will be beneficial or at least answer a few questions you might have had. Hope to have more write up's more often since projects are rolling in. Thank you so far for the positive feedback and please be sure to rate my project car so far.
February 6th, 2007
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Spoolin Performance Traction Bars
The purpose of traction bars is to stabalize the front to back motion of the LCA's (Lower Control Arms). Generally these are used to reduce wheel hop, common with high output or turbo charged cars. In my case Im using SP traction bars and my FWD integra.
The traction bar utilizes stock tow hook mounting locations on both the left and right side of the radiator support. After removing the stock tow hooks, you should have 3x bolts for both sides which you will reuse.
Once the tow hooks are removed and all neseccary plastic splash gaurds the front brace will slip right in between and line up to the 3 bolt holes. After bolting up the brace and tightening all 6 bolts you can now install the radius arms.
The radius arms are fully adjustable and can be extended or shortened depending on application. After connecting radius arms to the front brace they can then be connected to the LCA by removing the stock nut and bolting them on. Note:Its easiest to tighten this nut by using a socket and having the bracket removed from the radius arm.
Once the traction bars are in place and are in a neutral position (loose, not adjusting caster positively or negatively) lower the car and make sure the arms clear.
Traction bars allow you to adjust caster, which on most honda's is not a factory option. For best results you should really take the car to an alignment shop and have them adjust it. Your going to want about 2-4 degrees of positive caster. This will prevent wheel hop and tramlining (tires following grooves in the road).
Warning
If your installing traction bars on a turbo charged setup, make sure that the driver side radius arm does not conflict with intercooler piping off the turbo. If your using a ramhorn manifold like mine, you may have to fab up a new hot pipe or use a silicone coupler instead of a mandrel bend pipe.
Example of silicone coupler: ATP turbo 50$ compared to fabing new pipes...
October 1, 2005
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Skunk2 Pros Series Suspension
The install took me about 3 hours including taking pictures for my senior project as well as clean up and crap like that. It went extremely smooth with no real problems pretty straight forward and very satisfied.
1.)The first step was to remove all oem struts. I started with the front by just removing the 3 bolts at the base of the strut and the 2 on the top.
2.)The kit comes with all 4 new struts and springs. There arent any instructions so you'll have to use your own skills. My first problem was that theres nothing that says wich spring goes to which strut. For you that dont know this the heavier spring will go in front due to the extra weight of the motor.
When putting the struts together you will need to reuse the stock bump stops (which i cut in half to lower my car more) and the top caps. Also, dont forget to thread the two adjustable plates onto the strut from the top first. You cant thread them on from the bottom of the strut and its a pain to have to start over.
3.)Installing the struts are easier than you'd think. Just set them in place and line up the bolt holes at the base and the top of the struts.
4.)When you finally get all your struts in place and bolted in now you can thread the two plates to the height you want. The process of measuring and getting all 4 even will take awhile at first but makes later adjustments faster if you get it right the first time.
5.)Here are three pics. From left to right you'll see my car with my original Eibach pro Kit (1.3inch drop)then the first adjustment I made (was lower in front), then to what Im cruzin with now (about a 3-3.25 inch drop all around). And if your interested yes i now badly need a camber kit for both the front and rear.
Im very pleased with my purchase. It costed me about 620$ after shipping and my car handles insane even with my bad camber problem. I would highly recommend Skunk2's pro kit if your interested in doing Autocross like me. Its relatively cheaper than others and drives awesome.
Warning!! Please dont expect a smooth ride when you lower your car this much or buy this suspension. The reason you wont find it on skunk2's webpage is because it is sold through the race shop...meaning it is meant for racing. Just a heads up, as my daily driver I have to watch for man holes and bumps all the time not to bottom out. Just be advised.
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