Installation of OEM Honda Ridgeline Tow Package. I took some photos while installing my tow package. These photos might help a first-timer, like myself, and should be used along with the factory instructions. It is not a very difficult installation, but it can take some time. If you find these pics helpful, or if you find something wrong on this page, please let me know.

These are the parts that come in three boxes. I found it convenient to lay them out like this so I could make sure I had them all. I was missing two lock washers that are used on the bolts holding the middle of the unit to the frame. They are the smaller bolts shown toward the left of this picture.

First, disconnect the negative battery terminal. When it gets reconnected, the auto-up/down driver's window needs to be reset. The instructions tell you to roll the window down and then up, hold the button up for a few seconds and then test the auto-down feature. If it doesn't work the first time, just try it again. Nothing is broken, and you've done nothing to modify it by installing the tow package, it's only necessary because you disconnected the battery.

The first interior panel comes off pretty easily. You might want to use a flat tipped screw driver to carefully pry one area out so you can finesse the rest of it out. Be careful not to damage the panel.

The lower panel comes off pretty easily after removing the one screw, loosening the panel along the top edge, and disconnecting the three connectors and the one tube.

The next step is to find the connector that is blue taped to the harness. You have to lay on your back with your head under the steering column, best to have a light with you, and look straight up, all the way to the top and you can see the blue tape. If you can get your hand up there, undo the tape, there might be two pieces, and pull the connector down toward your face. It comes down about six inches. Where the connector dangles is a metal frame with two holes in it. The next piece screws into that frame after connecting the dangling connector to the new connector that you assembled as shown below.

The above parts are put together and the dangling connector that had been blue taped to the harness in the vehicle is connected to this piece. Then this bracket is screwed into the frame that is described in the text above these pictures. Then, after connecting the bracket to the frame, attach the black piece with the relay to the other piece and you're done under the dash!

The relay block is removed by putting a flat-tipped screw driver in this hole. You can reach under the dash and feel the relay block and help it out. If you don't help it out with you hand, you can't remove it. Put the relay in the block and replace the block. You can now put the dash back together. You're done inside the vehicle and the rest is done in the back and under the hood. Remember to connect the tube and the three connectors, snap the lower dash panel into the clip holes, and then replace the one screw that you took out. Finally, the side panel easily snaps into place.

The vehicle connector that is green taped under the left rear of the vehicles is easy to see, but hard to disengage. There is green tape around the connector, as seen in the photo, but there is also green tape farther down on the cable that you can't see. Try to wriggle your hand into the area where the connector is peeking out, but be very careful not to cut your hand or get it stuck! If you can't feel the other piece of green tape, you can gently pull on the black cable cover, not the wires and NOT the connector to gently force (oxymoron, I know) the cable from the green tape. Once removed, you can pull the connector out several inches, measure 145mm from the end of the connector, put on the cable tie and pop the tie into the hole. It is pretty easy to see what hole is used, the cable tie will only work in one hole! The dummy plug on the connector should be taken off before pushing the cable tie into the hole, unlike what is pictured here! It is much easier to remove the dummy plug when you have more 'play' in the cable. You can also cut the cable tie shorter, this picture shows the long end shoved into the larger hole.

The rest of the installation is pretty straighforward. The muffler needs to be freed from the rubber grommets, and the shield needs to be removed. Remember to replace the shield when you are all done.

The hitch frame is large and cumbersome, so it helps to have someone hold one end up to the holes on one side while you hold the other end up to the holes on the other side and get the bolts started. Then, while your helper continues to hold up the other end, you can go to the other side and start the bolts there (of course, if your helper is able to do so, the bolts can be started on both ends simultaneously).

The wiring harness is easy to assemble and install, especially if you've removed the dummy plug from the vehicle's connecter previously. Just assemble, attach, and you're done.

Finally, you have to put the fuses in the fuse box under the hood, near the battery (look up and to the right as you look under the hood from the front of the vehicle). The new cover is used because it shows the new fuse positions -- use it to determine where to put the new fuses.

You're now done. I hope these pictures help. They are meant to be used along with the factory instructions. Good luck.