_____________________________ INTERIOR ________________________________

Entire Interior is Dynamatted , Trunk top & bottom , floor Under carpet, roof under headliner, Rear Deck top & bottom .. all Interior panels have rubberized undercoating sprayed on the back of them to quiet the interior more.. Expanding foam used in areas that cant be dynamatted ..All inner door panels will be sprayed with undercoating or Herculiner whichever will be easiest and most effective..and door skins where the door panels hook up to..will be covered completely with dynamat....Also I used acoustic foam where possible too..(pic lower on the page of some of it being used on trunk lid over top of dynamat).......... Vents in trunk removed and sealed up with dynamat because they vibrated like crazy with a loud system.. these holes will be sealed up correctly with aluminum sheets and fiberglass.... So far I've gone through a dynamat extreme Bulk pack and a half ..I'll be buying another bulk pack soon ..I am serious about deadening my ride.

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Cut out the factory vent (defogger for front windshield)..and replaced them with mesh grill material and covered the panel with black MARINE vinyl to match the rest of the dash better..

MARINE vinyl is made to be in the sun constantly so it dont fade like regular vinyl will

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Overhead console custom painted and I put 2 3mm LED's in the lights from an old set of windshield sprayers I bought and never used . When I wired the leds up I ran wires back to the rear lights above passengers to add leds there, Also I made room for expansion in case I wanted to add anything else to that toggle switch which is wired to the pink wire that supplies the map lights (constant 12volt) UPDATE: I am re-wiring the overhead console using 22 gauge wire because the 16 gauge wire is too thick and my panel isnt sitting flat against the ceiling , 22 gauge is pleanty thick wire for 4 led's (2 in center console and 2 wired into the rear overhead lights/handles)

 

UPDATE: overhead console..changed digital display to blue and put 3mm led's in lights. I have to steal someone's pic of the overhead console to show old digital display in green...just for comparison (below).

This is the color it was originally Next 2 pics show the color change to blue.

Factory color

Day time

Night time -had Illumination dial dimmed down for some reason(display is much brighter than pictured)

 

Digital displays and unit lighting changed to blue,  (1) 3mm LED in each map light..

HVAC (heater cntrl.) and Light control switch panels green to blue swap..I decided to change the knob line to white led..to match my blue/white theme..

 

Before (dark spots...eh)

After (still not final product) fixing white dial, blue dashes around dial to match buttons

 

Here is the digital display..NOTE this is 4pm slightly overcast day..still very vivid blue coloring. If you want your digital displays Blue I'll send you everything you need (more details on page 1) ..send a message if interested.

Headlight switch

Step 1: All blue

Step 2: Blue w/white dial & Bright fog light indicator

   

Mirror adjustment switch

the blue/white lighting combo is going to be throughout the car.. Need to get pics of this at night..but they are still nice and bright during the daytime...

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Below is a pic of how the led' s are mounted in the headlight switch...I have to get one mounted in there for the fog light indicator..forgot about that one when I mounted the led's. White led illuminates the line on the round switch now.

I took the switch apart again to see if I could fix the issue I was having with my fog light indicator LED I installed not illuminating when the fog lights are turned on..  The board has pos/neg marked on the board..but is wrong (reversed) and I noticed a part of the connection on the board is broken so soon I will get one from ebay and wire it up ..so for now..I dont care if its not working properly.

 

Painted rear view mirror chrome/white

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                 Custom painted Interior-fall 2007   W/ blue door handles  

A,B,C-pillars,door handles,and a couple other things WERE blue before I switched to white..no pics of that though..it only lasted about a month or 2                     

300M clock is being molded somewhere. Currently being worked on.  Green light changed to Blue or white switchable Illumination. (I also did this mod for other cardomain members). I need to complete the molding process & Paint mine...300M CLOCK MOUNTED... In dash where trac control switch would be if I had it....added a white led and a blue led (switchable) plus tinted the clock face 35% ..pic soon. (PIC BELOW..temp all new pics when everything is done correctly)

UPDATED Cust. Painted Interior-Spring 2008--- Matches better than the blue

(RIGHT) the white stripe beside the glove box has been re-painted black, not sure why I painted it white to begin with...UPDATE: I got a new panel to replace this on ebay (I mainly bought it for the switch) I am using the switch from the glove box light to turn on/off my new light set up I'm working on in the center console.

My tweeter pods are not installed in the above pictures...but I am swapping the colors on them..It would look better if the main part of the housing is chrome/white and the chrome/met. black is on the inner circle.(Pic when done/re-installed)

UPDATE: I cut out the face of my tweeter pods Im thinking about glassing my 5 1/4 Alpine components to the top corner of my door panels just have to check dimensions and imaging which should be ok ....Another option is putting them in the front corners of the dash (just worried about the sun's effect on them....Then i'll hide my 6 1/2 midbass in the door panel and put my 5 1/4 kicker components in the rear deck

UPDATE AGAIN: I found a " Mirror cover panel " to replace my tweet pods..Ive never seen this before but I guess it's for cars that dont have the tweeter option. These will be modified and painted soon.. I like having options, And I change my mind a million times !

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____________Custom Tweeter set-up A-Pillars ____________

When surface mount just wont cut it!

 Alpine DDDrive Silk dome tweet. from my 5 1/4 Component set

TOP Close Up: Used body filler to make the transition from panel to tweeter smooth(slightly rounded up around the edges) NOTE: The tweet sticks out about 1/8 of an inch from  panel.

REAR of Panel: Ran the wire to keep it from pulling on the wires, Right pic shows 2 small sections that I glued around the tweet to the panel ..this was NOT necessary because I cut the hole just the right size, and its being held with Bondo too.

       

I am really happy with how this mod turned out..I learned a few things about using body filler which is good..will help me out in the future!   If you put too much hardener in a small amount of body filler it will totally harden in less than 2 minutes.....oops!

This will bring my front stage up to a good level Ive been looking into putting my 5 1/4 midrange ALPINE DDDrive drivers up close to them.

By the way I will be putting this on the page with my audio mods too..It is both Interior and audio

01-15-09 : Today I am painting the Alpine logos on these tweets chrome/white .

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I removed the carpeted area in the rear doors and installed a polished stainless steel panel which I got from work for free :)  (got about 8 Stainless steel pieces  @ around 8"x24" & about 15 that are about 4"x12" ) Some will be used in the mods Im doing to the body kit, toggle switch panel, Z3 fender inserts(unless I go with my other idea), Amp beauty panels, and possibly more I just havent decided yet.

I am going to put a bead of some rubber or plastic to cover up my sloppy epoxy job. Also I need to Paint the door handles to match the front doors..I just noticed it in the pics..in the car they were out of sight..out of mind..now it will bug me till its done.(panels out,Pics when done).. UPDATE  ::::: BELOW: door handles match fronts now.

What I am using to run new wiring into BOTH sets of door panels..ebay $27 but I MIGHT try to make some of these myself..they seem really simple I just need to find the parts to do it .... By wires I mean speaker wire & maybe a little something more for the rear doors..as always..havent really decided on that yet!!

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Below is the rear panel that I covered with MARINE vinyl and painted the covers for the child seat anchor points (which are sealed from the inside with Silicone to keep them from vibrating when my system is on)

Painted the cup holder in the rear armrest chrome/white.

Here is my cup holder in the center console which Is painted 2. Custom mounted LEDs In cup holders (rear too) pics when Installed.

Stinger Digital Voltage Meter..will be molded into where the ashtray was..in the center console.. Also in this area I will be putting my Epicenter control knob as well as possibly a switch or 2

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Painted the inside of my console armrest and installed 2 White Street Glow 5mm LED's on a toggle switch inside the armrest so I can see stuff...Its dark in there. You can see the switch below the right LED. (I did not sand these, Installed before I started sanding LEDs)

Sept. 2 2008-- I just removed this mod(leds) because I only used it once and I mounted the LEDs too low anyways.. UPDATE :   I put 2 3mm leds in the lid this will be more effective. I got a glove compartment switch for the armrest It will activate all the lighting that is going into my armrest console switch panel...I am slooooowly working on this mod.

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GAUGE CLUSTER EVOLUTION

STEP 1: Indiglo Gauge faces

Stainless steel gauge bezel (clear coated at my last job)

STEP 2: 35% window tint installed on cluster glass

(5% Limo tint was too dark could not see gauges at all in the daytime and I kinda need to see how fast I'm goin so I used 35%, 20% is dark but not TOO dark)
Before Tint                                   After 35% Tint

Indiglo Gauges Illuminated..(stock picture..actual pic down further on the page barely noticable)

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STEP 3: New 300M gauge cluster swap

STEP 4: Double 35% tint installed (Right pic)

STEP 5: Installed 4 White 5mm LEDs 1 over each dial

Blue 15" LED strip (Pilot) over the dials

Blue/green Electroluminescent Inverter from EL gauges wired into 300M gauge dials & Shift selector lights 

Swapped turning signal Indicator lights GREEN to BLUE LED

Swapped Cruise control Indicator Light GREEN to BLUE LED 

Digital displays switched GREEN to BLUE (mileage/gear indicator)

STEP 6: Installed 4 GREEN LEDs where white LEDs WERE (for daytime driving only if necessary)

White LED strip just like the blue one mounted beside Blue strip 

Stainless Steel cluster bezel mounted again to reflect lighting more

I think I'm done with the cluster for a while

(updated step 6 is current NO pics of this yet)

Old news--> This is a temporary pic of my cluster ..with darker tint, 4 white led's, and 15" blue led strip........until I get all panels on and can give you a pic of how it will look when done.  I did the blue digital display to the gauge cluster...but looks like I need to put a couple more layers to blue it out more.( done 2-18-09 )..  Also I need to finish wiring up the stuff that changed my 300M cluster from green to blue..also this works on the shift selection indicator next to the shifter. 

  

Notice how the blue digital displays turn green when I turn on the blue LED's..but they look blue when just the white LED's are on...and the pic below they look green. I think i'll have to put a couple more layers of blue on the displays to help it stay looking blue all the time..    UPDATE: This has been fixed

Next time i'm out takin pics..I have to get one with my mileage I'm recently hit 79k Not too bad for a 01.

I have installed blue led bulbs to replace left/right turn signal and cruise control indicators in cluster (sanded down of course..so they dont blind me while flashing)..I could have left these unsanded with the tinted glass ..they are just barely visible now.(wetsanding them back to a clear lens...or close to it)

 

 

__________ LED TIP __________

I just thought I would share a technique for Better looking led's which does away with HOT SPOTS and GLARE .. I take a grinding stone(1/4" shank mounted grinding stone set-pack of 5 at Harbor Freight for $1.99-rough sand paper can also be used but takes a while) and grind down the round end of the led to where it is about 1/16 away from the "filament" or metal part of the led(if you hit the filament they dont work I know from experience)...and then take sand paper and scuff the rest of the clear bulb area to make the whole thing look frosted or etched.....when you do this the light comes out in more of a scattered pattern...its not focused like some or most led's are..flattening the rounded end of the led helps this out a lot ..and it also makes them look visually more appealing if they are visible during the day time.       

Do 1 or 2..and compare them to a normal led, you'll love the difference it makes, I did it one time and now I do EVERY LED that way. I think this is pretty self explanatory BUT next time I go take pics i'll try to get a pic or 2 for a how to..this is a small but effective alteration.

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How many people use Under Body Kits in their Interior..?

I had this 30" Street Glow Blue neon tube mounted on a piece of angle aluminum..the reason for this was, I wanted the light to shine upwards and reflect off of the ceiling, I could not see it in my rearview mirror but it lit up my entire Interior very brightly...I am planning on re-installing this but with a better looking mounting solution ..using fiberglass and maybe dual neon colors(blue/white). Here is how it was, This is also back when my oh sh*t handles were painted blue (Now metallic black).  The mounting bracket was made out of flat aluminum stock that I bent at the right angle..and pushed it between the top of my B-panel and the headliner..no screws needed . I made it adjustable (width) by connecting the flat aluminum and angled aluminum with 2 wire ties on each end..It was perfect and stable. Painted it all white.. and enjoy.

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I have all of my neon on round blue LED toggle switches mounted directly under my steering column..sorry bout the wire situation I will definitely take care of all that soon. (taking care of that now) I am re-wiring everything that is aftermarket, except my power wire to the car battery simply because it is such a major pain in the ass to get to the battery. When I need to replace the battery..I will re-do the wiring there too...    UPDATE : Toggles being moved, replacement panel bought (ebay $9.50 total) I now have 4 of these panels sitting around the house.

My radar Detector toggle switch is mounted in front of my ignition considering I will rarely turn this off/on...I will get a pic of this when I mod the detector and re-install it.

I'm gonna do a blue/white neon combination throughout the car..I have the neon...just need to decide where I want to mount it and wire it up. UPDATE : I needed $$ so I sold an assload of my neon stuff..but I will still have more than ANY car needs.. ________________________________________________________________________

Pic of the inside of my trunk lid..fully Dynamatted and I added a large section of Acoustic Foam (egg crate style)..search this stuff and see how expensive it is on ebay.. I got  probably about 9 foot by 18 foot of it left ..got it free from sound deadening renovations at my last job.. I am an opporotunist. ..It came in 3 foot by 6 foot sections..I use the stuff inside all my sub enclosures and where ever I see fit.

  The neon transformer for my under body kit is mounted in the right rear corner of my trunk.. This keeps it out of the elements and makes it last much much longer....the transformers for my interior neon are mounted below the rear deck or "parcel shelf" as some call it.

 

By the way STREET GLOW Gold series underbody kits are awesome..ive had mine since 1996 and it is still glowing brightly and ive used it constantly even in winter..the side tubes are a little chewed up a little by road debris but no holes or cracks..the side tubes just kinda look like they were sandblasted lightly. I plan on hittin my tubes with some  wet sanding & scratch remover to clear them up some. 

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The dash at night kinda blurry but you get the picture..neon dont show up well on these pictures of my car but trust me its WAY brighter than it shows in the pictures..gonna try some other settings on the camera next time I go to take some shots.  I even have polished mirrored aluminum mounted behind each street glow 9" mini neon tube under my dash..it still looks weak in the picture..

I am removing the blue LED's out of the pocket and putting in a 6" neon tube instead..the variance of light between the led's are finally annoying me.

Update : The 6 " neon don't fit like I hoped it would..so I am doing a flexible led strip like the one I used in my gauge cluster but I will use one that fits in this area, Only ones I have at home are the 15" lengths I need about a 5" length.) I'm probably gonna get one from Oznium.com or Ebay...(Ebay all the way) Oznium sells on ebay but they are some assholes about

UPDATE of the UPDATE: The old style 6" street glow mini neons dont fit..but the new style does..the old style had a straight cylinder end cap..the new ones have a rounded off with a flat side end cap..the new ones are shorter by a little bit and fit in the pocket .... 

UPDATE of the other 2 UPDATES : .. I decided to just put new led's in ..this time I am sanding them to diffuse the light output..which will solve my hot spot issue..and the new led's I have are all visually the same brightness, the reason I removed the original led's in the 1st place.

(THIS mod is DONE! I did Blue/white/blue which is my plan for all the lighting on the car)

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Alpine 7965 Deck and (2) CHA-1214 12 disk Alpine cd changers with the add on Dual changer controller(required) Mounted in glove compartment

9-03-08 UPDATE : I moved dual changer controller to where the factory amplifier WAS mounted so I can have use of my glove box since i'm considering modifying my console under the armrest for my toggles and Epicenter control knob. (pics below)

(more like sitting in there rather than mounted but it was snug & didnt move)

Below are pics of where I moved my changer controller to..nice and hidden+ foam to keep it safe from vibration and bouncing back n forth..its cable tied up where the camera cant see.

 

My Alpine CD changers are mounted on a simple changer rack which I have mounted between the center console and the back seat ..on the floor..it holds both Alpine 12 disk changers firmly but is not attatched to the car with any screws, velcro, tape, or gum ..simple gravity works fine. The changers are inset 3/4" in the panel which keeps them from moving. The panel was painted with 3M Rubberized Undercoating I used the 3M because it dries DRY to the touch..not sticky like most others. I want to update my changer mount to fiberglass. UPDATE: Got a panel from ebay ($9.99) to use for my fiberglass project for the changers.. 

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Any questions or comments feel free to sign my guestbook.

Page 1: Exterior
Page 2: Interior
Page 3: Audio-Updating
Page 4: Recent Updates Audio
Page 5: Recent Updates Interior/Exterior (temporarily bs page)
Page 6: List of items in/on car
Page 7: List of items to be modified
Page 8: Whats goin on MONTH BY MONTH
Page 9: Time Line/ Journal deal