RAAMAUDIO BTX RAAMmat: available at www.RAAMaudio.com or email rick@RAAMaudio.com

This stuff is awesome! RAAMmat is an automotive sound deadener, much like Dynamat,that almost eliminates road noise, other unwanted outside noises, noise from vibrations, panel rattling, etc.... Installation is time consuming, but not too difficult if you correctly disassemble and reassemble your ride!

I purchased about 15 cans of Great Stuff* expanding foam and emptied about half the cans in between all the panels of the truck. Then I got two queen sized Thera Pad* from Wal Mart. They are about 2" thick and precut about halfway through in 1" squares. I ripped the mattress pads into strips and stuffed them inside the panels.

THEN I installed the mat.

Afterwards, I squirted the rest of the Great Stuff* in to the panels. This provides EXCELLENT SOUND and TEMPERATURE insulation, while significantly reducing vibration in addition to the mat. Perspectively, when one knocks on the exterior body panel of an SUV (or any ride for that matter) a resonating 'gong' sound is produced. Not so much on this Tahoe.

The Sound System

Up front is an Alpine 9835 (2004 model), which is a BAD ASS Alpine... AWESOME features!!

In the doors are four Alpine SPS170As, which are 6 1/2" round drivers with a swivel-head dome tweeter.

Powering the mids is a Precision Power PCX440. This amp delivers CRYSTAL clear sound; this allows me to really crank up the mids.

Here's my really old setup with two regular W3s in a ported JL port box.

THIS JL BOX IS FOR SALE!!!!! will work great with ANY JL 15s

I had my amp and cap under the seat but made a new flush mounted amp rack which looks a lot better.

Here's a couple pics of my slightly newer box that I got rid of

In the back are three 15W3V2s in a custom ported enclosure which I built myself.

Powering these bad boys is one PPI PCX1500 MONO amp. I LOVE THIS AMP. It's rated 1000 watts at 12 volts. Speaker wire is distributed inside the box so at 12 volts there's 1000 to each.
I idle about 14.3v-14.5v so a little more than 1000 to each sub :-)

On my amp is a Hooker Audio one pharad digital top capacitor. This cap helps with the dimming of the lights and other electrical component downgrade when hitting hard, and provides a little extra responsiveness to the subs so the amp doesn't have to draw power directly from the battery. This increases voltage by a little bit and also looks cool!

In the back I've hooked up an Optima Yellowtop deep cycle auxilery battery in the back where the stock 8" sub used to be. My amplifier circuit is about 4 1/2 feet in length so that also helps!

Here's the current project:

I'm sealing off the back with a sub wall. All I am doing is taking my box, lifting it up and turning it 180 degrees to face forward.

Here's what I have so far:

I set it up without the speakers in and routered out the holes for the subs.



I then took it all out and came about a half inch out on the facad so the speakers would sit flush with the face, instead of just screwing them in and having them stick out about 3/4"-7/8". This just adds a lot cleaner look and the subs will light up better when i put the neons on them.

The a barrier between the vertical part of the wall and the angled amp rack houses 2 hidden neons: one 48" blue under the bottom lighting up the amps, and one 48" blue under the top lighting up the subs. There will also be blues in the ports when I get them!.

In the front headrests are 2 7.4" Starvision monitors. They came with a mount but I didn't like it with the screen so I just molded it in to the rest without it.

They had silver around the screen I was not fond of so I painted over it and it looks a lot better.

I put a PS2 slim in the back console which works for DVDs also for the headrests





The console still folds up for fully functional back seat.

Here's a concept of what my front door panels will look like after I fiberglass them. 2 front doors hold 2 alpine sps170-As and one 7.5" screen each

Alright I got totally sick of that old screen mount (wasn't cuttin' it...) so I decided to mold it in for REAL.

Here's what I have so far:
Any suggestions? --- black paint (like exterior) or dark gray vinyl?

Alright I know I'm not done with my dash and console, but I just recently purchased two 15 inch LCD flatscreens which will be going on the inside of each of the far rear windows facing outward like so:

Soooo about 6 months later I finally get around to taking some pictures. Here ya go.

Soon I will have some pics of the screens playing video but I was in a bit of a hurry.

Here's my current project, and sorry to all you HATERS out there who are doin it small, but I had to uprade ALL my audio and add some video.

In the back I've replaced my 15s with EIGHT JL 13.5 inch W3V3s.

For the time being, in the doors are TEN JLXR 6.5s and one pair 5.25s in the B-pillars.

When I get some motivation, Im going to redo all the doors in fiberglass and add some crazy amount of speakers in the door, keeping it true to JL.

In the back, here's my temporary set up for my amps.
I am running ALL precision Power PCX-series amps.
I have another PCX 440 not in the picture which WILL be hooked up.

Took out the new version 3 w3s and went back to the 15w3v2s.

Here's my new current wall with my six brand new babies:

the 13.5s were awesome but I love and missed the sound of the ported 15s...

In the rear here's my temp setup for now. basically at this point I have so much to do I can't decide what I want to work on, so I have a lot of half-way completed tasks.

The 15" screens you're looking at in these 2 pics above and below were in the side windows facing outward for a while (sorry I never took the pics...) I moved the 15"s to the rear and put 17" replacements in the side windows.