This is no show car by any means but due to the fact I sell PPG paint for Autobody Products, Inc. in Beaver Falls,PA and my brother is part owner of The Auto Body Works,Inc in Darlington,Pa we were obligated to try and make this thing as nice as we possible could.

After the framerails and rad support were sectioned in and the brake booster was moved over the rest of the engine compartment was sand blasted, primed and painted. I wish I would have filled all those worthless holes in the shock towers and side aprons. I'll get them next time. On the rest of the car there was no rust anywhere, but it had the usual dings and dents plus the fronts of both fenders where damaged from the wreck. After the straightening was done the whole car was sprayed with DP48 White Epoxy Primer and primed with NCP250, block sanded sanded and then sprayed with DP48 reduced as a sealer. I went with a factory Ford front bumper cover so I didn't have any issues with the fit. The Oxford White was mixed in DCC single stage urethane in the factory color PPG # 3620, code 9L. The grey trim is the factory color PPG # 33717. It was also sprayed in DCC with the appropriate amount of flattener added. The hood is 2-1/2" Harwood bolt-on and needed very little prep work other than cutting the reinforcement lip off the sides and back. It has held up very well considering I don't do car care very well. I am soooo glad that it's white. These are very possibly the first 7.5 emblems ever made. Unless the car was running nobody even glanced at it when I had it out the first couple of months. I made the 7's from a popsicle stick frame that I hot glued together back in '97. I then filled them with rigid bumper repair. I then sanded to shape and cut chrome plastic for over it. They look pretty good until 5' or so. I have since bought the ones they sell now.
The underneath was all sand blasted and painted with DP90 Black Epoxy. I used Lord Fusor black urethane seam sealer on every seam and wiped it smooth. I finished the underneath in Zolatone Black coating. It has held up excellent. All of the suspension and rear end were painted in just DP90.

We made fiberglass boxes that fit in the foglight openings. Duct work connects the boxes to the original dual snorkel air cleaner.

Another eBay purchase. It was amazing how many people thought the car could only go 85 due to the speedometer.
Being a non-smoker I decided to make what I thought was good use of the ashtray. The red switches are for each fuel pump. The yellow one powers the electric fans and the blue one arms the N2O. The big round button is for the N2O puge solenoid.
The Hurst Qtr Stick shown here was a Father's Day gift from my kids. I may have been the only person alive that didn't know that a C-6, along with a few other transmissions, need a specific shifter. I had a universal piece of junk and put up with years of misshifts and PITA adjustments for no reason. This thing is awesome! The black rocker switch is for my line lock.
This is the factory shift light that I wired to a MSD rpm activated switch. I'm also using a MSD 6AL and Blaster coil to fire the Duraspark distributor and their tach adapter to make the stock one function correctly.
The whole interior is all stock except for the the few things shown on this page, SFI safety belts and the homemade 6-point rollbar using the mandated .125 wall DOM steel tubing. The side bars and back brace are both removable. I made sure that the headliner and all the side interior pieces can be removed and installed around the bar.

Home Page
Engine Compartment/Undercarriage Pics-Page 2
Engine/Drivetrain Pics-Page 3
Serpentine Belt Set ups-Page 5
Lorne's Truck-Page 6
'01 Big Block Mach 1 Clone/Other Projects-Page 7
Fun Pics & Links-Page 8
Friend's Rides-Page 9
My Side Work-Page 10
Power Tour Pics-Page 11