Random FAQ page. This isn't gospel and I WON'T be held responsible for any problems that you have while following these guidelines. DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Higher octane will not give you better gas mileage and more performace. This is ONLY true if your car requires the higher octane. What octane means is the ability to withstand combustion while being compressed. Basically the higher the octane the harder you will have to compress it to make it ignite. So, the higher your compression/boost/advanced timing will all have to do with you having to run more octane. You NEED to match your octane needs to your individual car. If your car only needs 87 octane your car WILL ACTUALLY BE SLOWER AND YOU'LL BE THROWING $$ AWAY if you run anything higher. The key to the best performance is to run the lowest octane your car will allow without detonation.

Octane boosters are not always what they seem. For instance. If the bottle says "raised octane by 7 points" This doesn't mean your 87 will now become 94. It will actually be 87.7. That's right, 1 point is actually a tenth of an actualy octane #.

Unlike a carburetor it would be hard to over throttle body a fuel injected engine. Throttle bodies are AIR ONLY flow devices whereas carbs are fuel/air flow ones.

Thicker spark plug wires are usually just a thicker insulator. NOT the inner core. No performance unless you are experiencing interferance problems.

High stall converters are not always what they are rated at. For instance: Take a mild small block chevy and put a "high stall" converter behind it. It might stall at 1800RPM. Now take the SAME converter behind a built big block and it will stall higher then it did behind the small block. SO when you buy a "2500" stall converter you might not see that actual stall behind it. It all depends on how much torque you make and where you make it.

Boost, ahhh...somethings are just mis-understood. For instance MORE boost DOESN'T mean MORE POWER in all cases. Think of it this way. Your "small turbo" is a straw. Blow through the straw as hard as you can. the pressure you are making is "boost". Now for the "big turbo" open your mouth as far as you can and blow as hard as you can. See how much easier the air came out? So basically you are moving more air with your mouth open then with the straw even though with the straw you made more "boost", and more air equals more power. So think of boost as a restriction. Also another point is that the more boost the more you are compressing air. Compressed air gets heated up and the molecules expand. Making the air less dense in term making the turbo less efficient. So remember that a bigger turbo at less boost will FLOW MORE CFM then a smaller turbo at high boost and still be more efficient.

Bigger isn't always better. Lets talk heads. Some people think that the more the head flows the better it is. While this is true to an extent it doesn't mean to strap on some 350CFM@.750" lift on your daily driver. Low and mid lift #'s are extremely important. For instance. If you have a cam that has .500" lift then you should look for a head that flows it's max a little higher then that and has STRONG low/mid #'s. Having heads that flow 10000000000000000cfm at a lift that your cam doesn't even reach doesn't mean jack. So always match your heads to your cam. Another thing to look at is runner cc. If you have to choose between 2 heads that flow similar and one has larger ports then the other stick with the smaller one. The smaller ports will have more velocity and make more power throughout the whole RPM range compared to the larger ones.

You need Low compression and forged pistons to run boost. While this is definitly ideal you don't have to set it up like this as long as you keep boost levels down and keep off detonation. For instance. You can put on a 6psi NON intercooled vortech (9psi has been run with an intercooler) on a completely stock LT1 with it's 10.5:1 compression ratio and hypereutectic pistons and have it live. As long as you have the timing set conservatively, enough fuel, and don't "drive it like you stole it" every second of the day it should live. NOW this depends on a LOT of factors. Like how you drive, how well the car was taken care of, high mileage, etc. But it's possible to make power and run boost even with the "wrong" setup.

Do not do burnout on "street" tires at the track to warm them up. If you are running regular street tires you can do a "quick" spin to clean them off but NO SMOKE. This will only make them greasy and you will have LESS traction. DO NOT GO THROUGH THE WATER WITH STREET TIRES.

Less air in street tires does NOT mean you will have better traction. To find the ideal pressure do a burnout. Nothing huge, just enough to make marks. Look at the marks. If they are light in the middle and dark on the outside you have too little pressure. If they are dark in the middle and light on the sides you have too much. The idea is to leave the maximum "foot print". Since street tires don't have wrinkle wall you need enough air pressure to make the widest most evenly colored tire marks. That's where you'll have the best traction.

Reaction time DOES NOT IMPACT YOUR E.T. In fact you could sit at the light after it goes green for 3 hours and finally go and run a 13 second (or whatever your car runs) pass. The reaction time is the time from the green light till you cross the starting line.

Extra oil is not a good "saftey" thing to do. The extra oil will cost horsepower and most likely foam in the oil pan.