Page 1: Info and Ramblings
Page 2: Exterior Pics
Page 3: Interior Pics
Page 4: Engine Pics
Page 5: You are here
Page 6: Recent News!
Page 7: Death!
These are some pics of the disassembled engine, Prior to replacement of the Water Pump. And some shots of the old Water Pump. If you're looking to check your water pump, make sure the car is off and try wiggling the fan up and down, if there is play in it, you should think about a replacement water pump.This is also a good time to replace your timing belt, while you already got it all torn down, or Vice-a-versa.
Sorry people, I forgot to get pics of the reassemly process, I was in to much of a hurry to get back on the road so I slapped it back together, by the time I remembered the camera, it was to late.
Ok I got bored at work the other day and decided to tear apart an extra electronically controlled strut I had. I set the parts in an exploded view, so if you try to tear your's apart, (which I take no responsibility for!) You will know how it goes together.
OK, Time to play with the removal of the good dashboard. I found out the hard way that it's not too hard to remove. I removed a lot of stuff that didn't need to be removed, so pay attention to my instructions, not just the pics.
I suppose we can start with the easy stuff... Remove the 3 phillips screws in the center console, then gently pry up the 300zx emblem near the ashtray, and remove the 2 phillips screws below it.
I didn't get a pic of it, but you have to pry up the portion just in front of the center compartment also with the mirror adjusters, and what ever other options your Z came with. Once up you will have some connectors to disconnect, and one phillips screw to remove. Then just remove your shift knob (if manual trans) You will have two phillips screws to remove before you can remove your shift knob if auto. Then you can just pull up the center console and put it aside.
Next is more easy stuff, but you will need a couple of flathead screwdrivers, it helps if the screwdrivers are bent some. You will push forward on the small clips (metal clips that have a bend that will just accept you screwdrivers tip) that hold the registers in the front of the dash near the windshield, then as you are pushing forward on the clips with one screwdriver, use your other to gently pry up on the register. On the right side there will then be three screws exposed with 10mm bolt heads which you will then remove with a 1/4" drive ratchet, you won't need any extensions, but if you have a real small one like 1", then feel free to use it. Then repeat the process on the left side.
Ok, on to the steering wheel, this is pretty simple, all I needed was my 1/2" drive rachet, a 19mm socket with a 3" extension, and a phillips screwdriver. I removed the column cover which was held together with 4 phillips screws, from the bottom. The top part just lifts off if you got all the screws. The bottom part is clipped to the column, be sure to pry the plastic over the ignition switch, and use light force to remove the bottom cover, then unplug the key light.
Once this is done you have to unplug the clockspring that is connected to the steering wheel before removal, or you will bust it. Look for the wires coming from the back of the wheel at the bottom to a connector at the column. There should only be about 4" of wire and the connector hanging loose from the wheel if you got the right one. ( I didn't remove this connector beforehand, but I got lucky, and didn't break the clockspring.)
Then I simply peeled back the horn cover, and removed the nut and washer. I wiggled the wheel by pushing (on the reinforced parts) towards the dash with my left hand and pulling with my right, then alternating, very quickly and with force. The wheel should come off without a puller, but you may need to get one.
Next, you should remove the four small screws that hold the signal and washer switches, and then slide them out. You can just let them dangle or remove them at the connectors. Then you should remove the two bolts holding the column up and let it drop. If you don't, you risk breaking the switches, which are about $150.00 each. Or damaging the dash.
Now for the gauges... Remove the knee panel by removing the 3 phillips screws and a wiring connector. After thats off toss it in the back and remove the phillips screw holding the heater ventwork up on the left side. Next comes the digital power supply for your dash. Remove it by taking out one 10mm nut on the radio side, and one 10mm bolt which is above the power supply to the left. Once removed take off the two connectors, and gently place it in the back.
(This is a good time to have someone who can solder look at it, they will have to take it apart, then look at the bottom of it where the connectors plug into it. Sometimes the solder around these connector pins cracks, and will give you intermittent problems, such as the display lights going on and off, or certain portions of your display not working. Just remember this is about a $1000.00 part, which can be fixed cheaply. So make sure you don't get solder on the board anywhere else, or your computer will go up in smoke.)
Then removing the switches to the left and right of the gauges.
They should be held in place by one 10mm nut each, which has to be accessed from the back of the dash, hope you are somewhat of a contortionist.
There should then be two connectors on the back of each set of switches, disconnect them and that's that.
Then take off the platic shield around the unit, there should be 4 phillips screws holding it in.
2 of those screws can only be accessed once the switches are removed. Now just gently squeeze it and pull it out. Then you should see three connectors at the top of the unit,
disconnect these and remove the unit. (Be careful, this is about $4000.oo you are screwing with.)