KICK PANEL LOG
How do you correct improper imaging? You kick it...
for those curious on how much airspace I had to use for the kick lol, it was enough, this is a rough mockup and not sanded or beautified at all. This is the third rendition and it uses the stock kickpanel to ensure a tight fit with zero to no panel gap. These are currently housing a pair of infinity coaxes. The pod is double glassed to get the effect i want. I make them using the actual grill that the speakers come with and to get a more extreme angle then mount the wood with plumbers tape and screws to the stock kick. from that point I wrap them. Adds a little raise to the wood without more glass. I go for effect and cheat on buildup by making sure i have enough room inside to just pour resin in to thicken, concentrating on the faces contour and moving from there. I use sanded bondo as a thickener and in extreme cases a 50 50 mix of kitty hair and resin. I wanted these to flow and not be as straiight forward as those in my last car. After finishing the other kick the winter will cover glassed doors like my last car, but these will be matched to the vinyl on the kicks, and the leather seats im looking at. not too far from normal ;)
PASSENGER SIDE
My puppy lookin on
A rough mockup in the car for testing
More testing
adding bondo to fill it in
Test fitting the eclipse
Sealed with resin and foamed prior to speakers
To show the roughness taken out from above pic
Shows the contour of the factory kick used to hold em
ONe Down ;)
Another shot
Close Up

This is the initial floor mold from my SE on the Driver Side. I knocked the four tack welds loose and removed the dead pedal. This leaves enough room to rest my foot and not stay on the clutch or speaker uncomfortably...You gotta give up a little right???

This shows the depth (But its greatly reduced from there ;)

The resin begins the mat ends. Can see a reinforced area as well.

This is the "mockup speaker" and kick ring. The box is being resined to seal it in its entirety before its wrapped, so whatevers been left i just brush it on there. ONE Spot that didnt work well do to the titebond being wet still :(

This is the manner I use to be able to adjust speaker angle and get what i want from the speaker. IT leaves them pretty much adjustable by moving the plumbers tape and wont break.

This is the short side that has to tuck to make the tweeter section usuable

This is a fully mounted board ready for angling in car.

Just ensuring the magnet depth wont be a problem.

Time to rAp

Thin enough to see through the glass. From here I pour resin in the inside to seal and just turn the item over to seal its self up. Place pieces of fabric/glass inside and the resin will strengthen in the areas your worried about, generally a good idea to make sure the mat is in place first.

I have had to move alot of stuff into the basement so its MAD CLUTTERED, just look at my secondary work area.

When you put it back in will it fit? yes...it will :D

It will be made that the stock gasket will flush up and go over the kick as to not allow any "whistles at speed" from the gasket being moved out of the way or trimmed. Also going to work on this side to allow that doorpanel to sit flush.

showing clearnance and that the hood pull is untouched.

closer

tweet will be here

????

From here we move onto building it up and wrapping it, this is where all of the work comes in....Pics coming of that ;)