Suspension/Braking: Rear (continued from page 6)

300zx Front Calipers
Duralast Gold brake pads
12.5" drilled/slotted 3000GT Front Rotors
ProjectNissan conv. Stainless Steel Brake lines
Kazama Tie Rods
Kazama Tie Rod Ends
Wicked Rear Camber Arms RUCA
Wicked Rear Toe Rods
Megan Racing Rear Lower Traction Arms
Megan Racing Front Pillow Tension Rods
Megan Racing Front Tension Rod Support Bar
Megan Racing Track Suspension kit
Tanabe Front and Rear Tower Strut Bar

Megan Racing Track Suspension Kit Install:

Just go ahead and WD-40 everything in sight and get your tools ready lol.

You'll need a 12mm 14mm 17mm and 19mm socket and a Breaker bar is highly suggested too. A good hammer and flat head screwdriver for the brake line clip. Make sure to set your ride ht and spring rate now if you know what your doing. Finally a good hour for each one if your doin this on your own including tire removal. Its better to have a friend help out so just make sure you have beer.

Grab your 17mm and 19mm socket, were going after the front ends 2 mount bolts first. I used a 17mm socket and a 19mm closed wrench to help with the breaker bar. A lil raw strength from someone who hasnt been laid will usually get those right off. Afterwards just take the 2 tower nuts off with a 14mm and repeat on the other side. Dont forget to tap off the brake line clip as well, now chuck the old stuff lol.

Now Just like you finished up with the brake line, thats where you should start. Lineup the brake line and slide it in place then go grab you a hammer and tap it back on the way it was. Once thats placed on, go ahead and hold the suspension up and place the top 3 strut bolts back in. That will be your anchor to reattaching the suspension. Quick lil trick, use your floor jack to lift up the arm to set your brackets together... otherwise your gonna get one helluva workout. Line it up and place the 2 bolts back on, torque to about 80 lbs and replace wheels. Congrats, front end done. Off to the rear!

Now onto the rear suspension. This took me around 25 min. each. Make good use of that 17mm, and loosen the bolt. Take the trim panel that covers your speakers off and get a deep 12mm socket with a 2 1/2 to 5 inch extension. Get you a hammer and tap the shock out of place.

Heres the 'use the jack' trick again. Get the mount bolts into their mounts once you slide the new system in. Then hold it in place with one hand while you jack the rest of the suspension up to mount on the bottom of the strut. It'll just slide right on after that. You can use a hammer to push it all the way in (rubber mallet or a cloth over the tube... dont hit it directly) or you can just screw it on until it moves the mount all the way over. Torque her down to about 80lbs and tighten the 2 tower mounts up top again.

Congrats, the install is over. Take a step back and remind yourself what the old suspension vs the new looked like. Now go get an alignment first... holla at bitches second.

Wicked Tuning RUCA arms and rods:

Here's another quick strong install. The hardest part is once you get the OEM arms and rods out is sizing up the wicked tuning pieces to match as close as possible. Outside of that is just removing the inner and outer bolts and swapping the appropriate parts. Make sure to mark your camber bolts connecting your arms to your subframe so you can put them in the same way as well. I took all of my stock bolts and nuts to a steel brush grinder so i could clean them up a bit as well.

The side by side looks something like this.

Again, its pretty simple. Take your time and if a nut or bolt is pissing you off since it doesnt want to move, simply get an impact gun or call a buddy over to work at it. A fresh mind saves fenders lol. Next up will be a whole lot of Megan Racing suspension upgrades to the front end to help support the new engine i purchased last week. (20080316)

Megan Racing Rear Lower Traction Arms and Front Pillow Tension Rods/Tension Rod Support Bar:

Another Simple Upgrade towards a completely adjustable suspension. We likes those! So heres what Megan Racing had to offer. These tension rods actually look like they mean business and im happy for that. While i was gonna be down there i also opted to install a support bar from Megan Racing as well. Seeing as it attaches to the long bolt which goes through the pillow mount it made sense to do it at the same time. It also beats bying the Nismo Brace which this bar basically does the same thing, strengthing the gap.

So Simply take the 2 nuts off the bottom of the arm connecting it to the mount. Then remove the pillow mount end bolt. That part youll need a wrench of some sort plus your rachet to keep the bolt in place. Pull out the bolt and your set. Now compare, lord knows we love doing this.

Go ahead and place the new Arms into position and adjust them to length. Then hand tighten the nuts onto the mount bolts. Run your pillow mount bolt through on both sides and line up the support bar. Tighten down those real fast to keep it in place so it wont fall on you. Go back and tighten the nuts on the mounting arm to specs and then do each side of the support bar. I found it easy to use a box ended wrench on the inside by the par but you can squeeze a smaller rachet in there if youve got a good tool set.

And the finalized product... and then noticing you put the bar in upside down... lol, oh well, fuck its just a sticker right? ;)

Tanabe Front and Rear Tower Strut Bars:

Really simple install here. Dont mind the old picture of my engine lol. For the front all you have to do is line it up, install it directly over your strut mounts and tighten it down completely. 10 minutes tops. Now as for the rear... the easiest way to do this is to remove one mounting bracket and emplace it without the bar connected. Once youve got both brackets tightened down then replace your cover on the car (if you want to) and then slide the bar back into place. Tighten everything again and there yah go, instant rigidity! The rear ones take about 30 minutes give or take since its an awkward position to work in. Ive got my Suspension Techniques Sway Bar set on the way, but id say if you get sway bars to install both strut and sway at the same time. Otherwise you just need to get reaquainted with your car all over again.

Page 1: Updates and Everything
Page 2: Engine Setup
Page 3: Interior Styles Page 1
Page 4: Interior Styles Page 2
Page 5: Exterior Styles
Page 6: Suspension/Braking Page 1
Page 7: Suspension/Braking Page 2
Page 8: 240SX History/Termanology