Suspension/Braking: Front

300zx Front Calipers
Duralast Gold brake pads
12.5" drilled/slotted 3000GT Front Rotors
ProjectNissan conv. Stainless Steel Brake lines
Kazama Tie Rods
Kazama Tie Rod Ends
Wicked Rear Camber Arms RUCA
Wicked Rear Toe Rods
Megan Racing Rear Lower Traction Arms (20080310)
Megan Racing Front Pillow Tension Rods (20080310)
Megan Racing Front Tension Rod Support Bar (20080310)
Megan Racing Track Suspension kit
Tanabe Front and Rear Tower Strut Bar

Some advice for everone.

Always drive your car around for a mile or so to let any suspension upgrades settle first. Weight is an issue and try to pay attention to any noise. Whether griding a wheel well or something being loose can happen after suspension mods. Make sure to turn your car and your wheels all the way, left and right. Once all thats taken car of, adjust as necessary. Try to do ALL suspension mods at the same time, not just for ease of installation but it puts everything in the same mileage group. Finally, unless you have your own equipment, alignment alignment alignment! Stay safe out there.

300zx Caliper and 3KGT Rotor Brake Upgrade

Well instead of going the way of spending 3000.00 plus on a Brembo Big brake kit, I went another route most of us go. I got ahold of some R32 Skyline calipers, kinda like going with the 300zx calipers since they're the same thing but these came off a GT-S. I cleaned them up, polished them and then put a black G2 coat on them. They looked clean to me after that but the G2 paint wasnt as durable as i thought. Ill be powder coating them after i refurbish the rings on them with a satin silver. Then it was time to get some new rotors, found me some 12.5" rotors for a 3KGT VR4. Yes i know, what the hell are you doing with rotors that big? Well i had a friend fabricate the mounting brackets for 300ZX calipers to accept a rotor that large. Got my S/S Brake lines from ProjectNissan.com, 2 sets, since i killed one that had a bad endlink, and everything went smooth.

Excuse the quality of the pics here, i only had my cell phone at the time and thats pretty much the only way i could keep track of my progress back then. Make sure to remove your dust shield, a simple way to handle that crappy dust shield is just to cut the thing off with some strong shears. It gives you that much necessary clearance for those big rotors and its not worth anything anyway. Heres a pic of the remains of dust shield and caliper mounting bracket my boy made to angle the caliper for the new rotors.

Nows the time to replace your brake master cylindar if you purchased the 300zx one and then to run your conversion brake lines from the car to the new calipers. Mount the top bracket bolt to the caliper and just hand tighten it. Then place the new rotor on and then put the other bolt into place and tighten it all down. If you havent yet, thread the brake line on and your done. Time to move onto the other side. Heres a quick look back at the upgrade your making. Dont forget the width that is being upgraded on these as well.

Ok so I finished the install and was thinking Im ready to go right... wrong. LOL, its just like my luck that as i was bleeding my brake system one of the brake lines I received would crack on the caliper mount. So yah... lots of fluid on the ground. ProjectNissan replaced the line no problem and everything was good. Heres your finished product shot and the old vs. new shot as well. All in all this was a great upgrade and a solid install.

Kazama Tie Rods/Ends Install:

Well since appearantly drifting kinda breaks and/or bends those things (specifically my passenger side), I had to get new ones. Thank god for Kazama who go above and beyond when its about these things. I purchased a new set of rods with their pillow ball mount ends as well. One would assume it would be like drivin a whole new front end! So here's how the install went. (lol)

Make sure you've eaten your wheaties for today. Unless youve got this thing on a ramp most of the work is gonna be done on your back and that means a LOT of work to remove one clip and to get the tie rod off. Outside of that its an easy job. I got started on this once i moved the brakes off completely since I was in the middle of that whole deal at the same time. This gives you a lot of room to work with. If your not doing something like that, then its best just to turn the steering wheel all the way to one side or another. You should have plenty of room after that. First off unbolt the tie rod from the rotor mount and tap it out with a hammer so you can get it loose for the next part. Try and keep it screwed on so you have something to mark the new end and rod with to get your length as close as possible to the OEM setting.

Then from there its time to move the boot covering the Tie Rods. As shown above, you've got 2 parts, a clip on the outer end and a metal tie on the inner end. Nothing a good set of pliers cant get too. The inner metal tie i kept to help support the boot in place when i replace the new tie rods, the outer little clip i just threw away. Now this next part is where all that weaties talk came in.

To get the Tie Rod off you'll need a 22mm wrench or a crescent wrench that can get wide enough. Before you even think of cranking this off, you need to remove a small 4 sided clip which is show above. That thing is an absolute pain to remove. If you can, try and just bend each side back so you can reuse it. If not then get you some metal cutters and find a corner that you can sneak it in and snip it off. I cut mine off plain and simple. After that you can go ahead and wrench those things off... dont be afraid to put some strength behind it, your not gonna break anything and it requires the strength of a man whos been sexually frustrated for weeks to move it.

After looking at the junk your removing youll also see why its a good reason to replace these if drifting is your thing. Notice the bend in one of the stock Tie Rods. Thats what drifting can do to equipment not meant for that. Remember to count the threads when taking off the Tie Rod Ends to get that one nut. That will help you in placing your new ends into a position thats close to your old alignment. No matter what, you should get an alignment after doing a project like this. Once youve got the rods together, boot on and youve screwed them back in you can cover up everything with replacing the metal tie on the boot. Simply screw the last nut back on the Tie Rod End link to the mounting bracket and call it a day. Now when i got it all setup, i actually had to have a full inch taken off of each tie rod due to angle issues (an extra $80) but my alignment was straight after it, and ive had no issues since.

Rims/Tires
DragWheel's DR11 18x7.5 now with Khumo Supra 712's 225/40RZ18. Gloss black finish. They are pretty dont get me wrong, but they're mainly for show with an offset of +48. Thats not good for a rear wheel that should have an offset of +20 or so. Ive got a new set of rims on the way which are basically Cobra rims, thank the lord mustangs share our bolt pattern so i can get a great rim size without having to by $2000.00+ rims. So when i get the rubber to cover them ill have the 17x9(f) and 17x10.5(r) rims up on here.

N1 type Exhaust

Heres the new N1 type exhaust that i put on last night. The install took me about 2 1/2 hours which wasnt so bad. If i had a ramp or a second pair of hands this woulda been done in an hour. I went with a straight 3" and I threw on the 'test pipe' (your basic cat bypass) to give her a lot more breathing room. Shes got a nice soft suttle sound to her now which is great. Add my OBX 4-2-1 header/downpipe in the mix at 2.5" and your looking at a straight line exhaust. The toughest part about this was just trying to cut off the support bars that hold the exhaust in place... that and the cat's bolts were destroyed so i had to shear them off in place. Now would be a great time to replace your exhaust hanger mounts too since im sure you still have the same stock ones on there from 90-whenever.

Page 1: Updates and Everything
Page 2: Engine Setup
Page 3: Interior Styles Page 1
Page 4: Interior Styles Page 2
Page 5: Exterior Styles
Page 6: Suspension/Braking Page 1
Page 7: Suspension/Braking Page 2
Page 8: 240SX History/Termanology