Page 1: Exterior and Interior(here)
Page 2. Performance Modifications
Page 3: Mods List
**UPDATES**
August 2009: Car is all tuned up now. Running on stock ignition still so Im being conservative with the AFR. Im consistent between 11.2-11.5 throughout the power band. Just upgraded to one of Hahns modular wastegates as the 8psi unit that came with their kit could not hold boost. I went with the 15psi spring and am now able to hold 15psi through redline like a champ. Car feels wayy faster. Next up may be some suspension mods and then DIS-2 programmable so I can increase boost to 22-25psi.
June 2009: Decided to go with the Portfueler because I like the fact that it allows the car to idle and cruise like stock on the stock ECU so it can remain a daily driver and pass inspection. I also installed a manual boost controller as well as a Zeitronix wideband datalogger with 3.5 bar MAP sensor for tuning. I currently have it running at around 15psi of boost and have it tuned to an AFR of 10.5-11.2 across the board. Higher boost will have to wait for some sort of ignition control.
April 2009: Brand new motor is in the car and broken in. I am only running about 11psi, as my current fuel system can not handle much more. Increasing the boost will have to wait for Portfueler or MS. I also got a Hahn front mount intercooler to keep intake temps down with the warm weather coming. Car runs noticeably cooler.
May 2008: Just ordered a Howell Automotive crate motor today! Deck plate honed and seasoned block, clevite rod and main bearings, JE forged pistons (8.6:1), total seal piston rings, eagle forged rods, full race balanced crank, melling oil pump, carter water pump, all new seals, Felpro MLS head gasket, ARP head studs, acid washed and seasoned head, stainless steel valves, crane valve springs, PT Cruiser rockers and lifters, titanium retainers, new oil pan, and powder coated valve cover.
January 2008: Well..I knew this time would come. I just caused some sort of internal damage and cylinder four no longer holds compression. I have decided to take the car off the road as it is basically running on 3 cylinders. I am not sure the extent of the damage. Do I rebuild or do I try to sell it...hmmm
July 2007: Just installed a stainless steel 3" turbo back, something I have been meaning to do for a long time now. I got the HRC downpipe, a street legal 3" cat, and the Thermal Research cat back. It made such a difference, and the car now hits 12-13 psi of boost from 6K till redline...it's fast! As I am still running stock internals, I tried reducing the boost with a few different methods but nothing seems to work. I think the new exhaust is just outflowing the small wastegate flap, and I am not interested in doing any porting. Also, I just had a stage 4 six puck kevlar/ceramic clutch installed to handle the extra power. This thing is great, but definitely has a much heavier pedal. And, with the new cat, a new 02 sensor, and oddly enough a new fuel vent valve, my car is now legal for the first time in over three years. No more check engine light!
**For anyone with a turbo gs/rs Eclipse getting the CEL code "small/large EVAP system leak" I would be willing to bet it's the fuel vent valve..check it out before you waste your money at a mechanic for a smoke test. The valve was never meant to see boost, and when it does, after a while the inner rubber diaphragm tears causing it to leak. It only costs about $13 bucks, and takes about 15 minutes to install. Please see page 4 for more details and pics**
My car is 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS running a Hahn Racecraft Stage 2 turbo kit. I built the car for speed, and since my funds are limited, my interior and exterior modifications are minimal. I hope you enjoy checking out my ride, and feel free to leave any comments or suggestions
Here are some pics of my car from various angles. First one is an old shot before I moved the license plate.




Here is a good shot of my Thermal Research Muffler.

Good look at the Hahn Racecraft FMIC.

In this pic you can see how I had the rear center tailight section painted silver to match the rest of my car. I also removed the decals to maintain the sleeper look.

OBX gauge cluster with an Autometer Air/Fuel and Boost gauge.

Titanium racing pedals. Kinda lame, but better grip than stock.

Upgraded Mitsu radio with CD player, B&M short shifter and brushed aluminum knob, APC leather shift boot, Symborski shifter bushings, and aluminum shifter cable bushings.
