...�. . . : : | | "Deck & 2" and a Powered Sub: 1994 Honda Civic Coupe | | : : . . . �...
I used to own a 1995 Honda Civic EX Coupe. To this day it still tops the list of cars I've owned. It was simple mechanically, it had great styling both inside and out, and was a blast to drive. It was also the first car I owned where I installed my first "high end" audio system: MB Quart Premium Components, a Clarion DRX-9255, Xtant 3300x, and a 12" Kicker Comp. Ah memories.
When my friend wanted to upgrade the stereo system in his "new" 94 coupe, I was more than happy to help. Hondas are pretty easy to work on compared to other manufacturers, and this would give me a chance to stroll down Installation Memory Lane. This coupe is going to receive a simple but great sounding upgrade: Kenwood CD player, Kenwood Excelon speakers, and a Bazooka 10" powered tube.
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Factory Radio Removal
The factory radio is a DIN-sized radio, something to keep in mind when shopping for a new radio.
To remove the radio, remove the lower center console.
Using my handy Skewdriver, I removed two screws from the underside of the console. Remove the ashtray and remove the screws securing the console to the dash frame (again, the Skewdriver comes in very handy, but a short screwdriver works well.)
Two screws must also be removed from the lower sides.
A security screw locks the radio to the dash frame. I've already removed the screw in this pic, but it's a single #2 Phillips head. You'll need a shorter screwdriver, or better yet, a
SkewDriver, to access this little guy.
<---this is looking up at the bottom of the radio)
Once the screw is out, slowly push the radio forward out of the dash. You should be able to reach the wiring harness and antenna connection easily.
And presto, a big gaping hole.
Now I'll wire up my wiring harness. This Civic uses the Scosche HA02B wiring harness and does not require a dash kit since it has a DIN opening.
Simply match and connect all like-color wires between the two harnesses. Also wire up your amplifier remote turn-on wire now. Bundle and secure the wires in a smart way, most dash openings don't have a lot of spare room to stash a harness.
**Now's a good time to drop and run an RCA cable and the remote turn-on wire for the powered Bazooka.
**Insert the radio's mounting sleeve and bend the tabs to lock it into place.
**Snap the radio harness onto the OE harness in the dash.
**Arrange the wires inside the dash cavity as you slowly slide the radio into place. You can arrange/pull from under and behind the radio as well.
I also added an easy-access auxiliary input plug as well by simply drilling a hole in the storage pocket of the Honda's lower center console and routing the mini-jack-to-RCA cable. Flip open the pocket to access the Aux, close it to hide it.
I forgot to take a picture of the cable once I ran it and of the radio once it was finally installed. But I'm sure you can
picture it!
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Amplified Bazooka Install
My buddy is a pretty active outdoorsy type guy. He goes camping and snowboarding regularly and needs his trunk. The Bazooka was perfect as it is easily removable and doesn't take up a huge amount of space.
First step is running the power wire. I looked in the engine bay and up under the dash to find a nice grommet to push the power wire through and into the cabin. Using a long flat blade screwdriver or unfolded coat hanger, CAREFULLY poke through the grommet from under the dash so the blade of the screwdriver is visible in the engine bay. Secure the power wire to the screwdriver with electric tape and slowly pull the screwdriver back through the grommet, pulling the power wire from the engine bay into the car's cabin.
Now carefully pry up and remove the door sills to gain access to the factory wire-tracks.
Using a slim but strong flat blade, carefully pry up the door sill, using your hand behind the blade to offer leverage and additional pressure to pop the clips. (I had to take a picture, but you shoudl use both hands :))
You can see the wire tucked in along the wire track.
Find a nice solid slab of metal to use for a ground for the amp. Make sure to scrape or grind the paint from the metal to maximize the ground connection.
We now test-fit the Bazooka. I pulled the carpet out of the trunk and set the woofer on the spare tire cover. Test fit and mark where you want your woofer.
This will make it easier to figure out where to install the securing straps for the woofer.
Finish up under the hood by installing the in-line fuse holder.
Secure the power wire with zip-ties so it's not loose under the hood. I'll usually cover the wire with plastic split loom as well for a more factory appearance and to protect the wires.
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Front Door Speakers
The sounds from 13-year old factory speakers leave a LOT to be desired. Although these factory speakers are actually coaxials and not just woofers, the sound quality was very poor. My buddy had some older Kenwood Excelon Coaxes he wanted to drop in for now. These speakers are very shallow, a benefit when working with Hondas.
For this install, I didn't have to remove the door panel; I could get all my access by removing the speaker grille.
Grip the grille with your fingertips and slowly pull out towards you.
Remove the screws that secure the speaker to the factory plastic bracket and un-clip the wire harness.
After test-fitting the speaker, I found it hit the factory speaker mounting basket. This basket is required in order to space the speaker out from the window. You will either need an aftermarket mounting ring like this, or will have to make your own or modify the factory. I chose to get out the Dremmel and modify the factory (I love my Dremmel!).
These particular Kenwood speakers require two speaker connections, one for the tweeter, one for the woofer. So I crimped a little speaker wire harness together:
Line up the Kenwood's multi-hole basket with the Honda factory holes, mount, and enjoy!
