Between the 12th and the 16th of July I did a swap from automatic transmission to manual transmission with all that comes along. The parts you need for this, I'd say massive job, is more than I actually can list at the moment. What I did was to buy myself a parts car with manual trans. I luckily found a cheap car that had a trans rebuild no more than 60k miles ago so it was tested to work.

If you'd like to know the effects of the swap let me tell you... it's a completely different car all together. It's much stiffer and not as comfortable to drive, but the power..! OMG! It's a huge difference. This is by far the best mod you can do. But a warning goes out as well... see to it that your tire account is well filled up ;-)

I'll try to do a little write-up here.

To take down the auto trans follow the guide on the previous page here.

Taking down the manual trans is very much similar to the auto trans. The only thing that's really different is the shifter rod(s) and the electrical connectors. The mounts are a little bit different but that's very little. You should be fine by following the auto trans guide.

Now what you need from the manual car:
* Tranny [Fig 1]
* Mounts (4 of them) [Fig 2]
* Shifter rods (keep the shifter on the rod) [Fig 3]
* Shifter mount [Fig 4]
* Flywheel [Fig 5]
* Master cylinder, the 'block' thing and the slave cylinder [Fig 6]
* Clutch pedal [Fig 7]

Fig 1 & 2

Fig 3 & 4

Fig 5 & 6

Fig 7

Mythbuster:
- You do not need to change the ECU. Not unless you're swapping engine at the same time.
- You do not need to change the brake pedal unless you wanna have the auto brake pedal intact. Just cut the auto pedal to the correct length. It'll even be stronger that way. The pedal it the same all the way except for the length of the foot width. This is how it looks before / after cut.

To be able to take down the shifter rods (OK actually it's one shifter rod and one support rod) you have to take down / lower the cat. I just unbolted the catback system and put a support under the cat so the flex section wouldn't brake. You just need enough space to get the heat plate away and unscrew the 4 bolts that holds the shifter mount. That's a pain btw if you've never unbolted it before. The nuts sit just over the heat plate; needless to say it's pretty hot up there so the rust really loves it up there... in case of emergency just cut the crap and get rid of the bolts and everything (like I did) and make your own bolt mount. Tear it apart! ;-)

To take out the master cylinder you need to disconnect it from the clutch pedal, so a good idea is to unbolt that first. I belive there's two 12mm nuts that hold the pedal rack to the master cylinder then there's a bigger bolt in the ceiling. Then there's a sprint that holds the 'pumping arm' and the pedal together. When disconnected it'll still be a hell getting the pedal out of there coz the air channel will be in the way. I'm sure it will come free with a fair bit of violence but since I didn't plan to make anything of my parts car I just cut the air channel a bit to room the pedal. It's just pure plastic so a knife worked fine for me. Then, to be able to get it in the other car I cut / drilled the 'static' bolts out of there and got new ones that I screwed in from the engine bay side. Oh, and you don't need that clutch sensor plastic thingy unless you want to start the car by depressing the clutch pedal only. Some kind of ignition lock that seems highly unnecessary...

To fit the master cylinder, (courtsey of subs1000w and GRNMAXDMON) make a template out of the parts car. Should look something like this:

Then just angle drill and hole saw the holes from there. It's pretty tricky since it's in such a bad angle (unless you have the special tools to do it right) but it's possible. Should look something like this before and after:

Don't worry about that cable coming out of there, it's just part of my aftermarket anti theft alarm.

Electronics
What you need to rewire is the following;
Position Sensor (PS)
Reverse lights
Cruise Control POSSIBLY (haven't figured that one out yet)

The PS is what tells the A/T control unit what gear is in when you've got the auto trans. If you have anything else than neutral or park in then the car won't start. When N or P is in the PS 'shorts' and sends the OK signal back to the A/T ctrl unit which in it's turn tells the ECU that it's good to go. As far as I've heard there's two ways of doing this rewire. The easy way or the factory way. I did it the easy way and I know nothing about the other so I won't even try writing about it.

OK so the F21 (auto trans harness) has 4 connectors with a total of 19 cables, while the F20 (manual trans harness) only has 1 connector with a total of 4 cables. Needless to say you need to find the necessary cables and leave the rest which is for solenoids and other stuff inside the auto trans. This is the layout, and you need to use the two connectors marked in the picture.

Easiest is to just cut away the connectors on these two, they wont fit anywhere so it doesn't matter.

PS: Short the brown cable and the green/black cable from the smallest connector (connector marked as 1). Leave the green cable alone, unused. Be sure to isolate it though. That was the PS, now your car will start. (Should look like this:)

The reverse lights comes out of connector marked as 2. The cables you need to rewire are the red and the thick green one (there are two green, one is thicker than the other). Isolate the others and leave them be for now. The red cable should be wired to the blue/red cable on the manual transmission side, and the green cable should be connected to the blue cable on the transmission side. Again, leave the other cables for now, but be sure to isolate them. Like so:

Engine side / Transmission side

Don't be alarmed, I needed to add length to these cables and didn't have any other color than red.

Well that's about it. I have like a hundred more pictures from the swap. If there's anything in particular you'd like to know, just give me a shout.