Page 5 (Updated 22-Apr-2008)

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Fuses - Fusible Links etc.

- Starter Circuit
- Battery positive terminal
- Fuse Panel Inside Cabin
- Fuse Box [B.]
- Relay Box [C.]

Free Service Manual, Free Download.....see FAVORITE LINKS -page 26- FAVORITE LINKS

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Starter Circuit

General starter wirings overview
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Open the hood and start wondering...

All following items are detailde below:

1. Battery positive terminal is shielded; there are multiple connectors needing cleanup. Some already contain connector grease, some do not. Its owners job to add the missing, they think at Nissan. These wires from here are routed to supply (2.) fusebox [B] ...and the thick startwire goes to starter assy at left. Starter uses up to 500Amperes, thereby this wire has to be thick, and all its connectors well cleaned (plus contact grease added against oxidation.)
2. Fuse and Relaybox [B]. From here the now fused +12V supply goes inside cabin, ABS etc.
3. In the cabin: Fusepanel, Ignition switch.
4. Relaybox [C]. Ignition switch activates ECCS relay at fusebox [B] and this activates inhibit relay [C2] at (4.). Inhibit relay activates starter solenoid. Starter solenoid connects the thick wire supply +12V directly to starter: motor starts spinning.

(Note: The word -solenoid is used for high current connecting devices. For Batt ground wire refer to page 10.)

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Battery + -terminal

It all starts here... battery positive connectors. : Fusible Link Wire (GY)

The Main positive (thick blk/yel wire) goes to the starter motor solenoid. Smaller ones (1.-4.) go to the fusebox shown below. The main gnd wire goes to chassis, under battery (see p.10), from there to the engine block. (For the added four extra blk wires see page 11.)

Four numbered connectors, three wires:
1. goes to fuse [B1] ...take off =dash lights, no start. (one W/Red stripe -thick wire)
2./3 . Supply charge wire from alternator. This short, gray shielded wire with connectors in both ends, is called Fusible Link Wire GY . It is used as alternator charge current limiter and fuse: it melts if current flow exceeds safety limits.
One Alt-schema shows that this wire comes directly from alternator. Another Pwr-schema shows two extra connections: the fact is, this wire here is also interconnected with Fusebox [B.] and its Fusible Links 4,5,6 - feeding lots of systems.
4. Grey connector; NOT connected to battery: Starter wire loop (one W/Red stripe -thick wire). This loop comes from Inhibitor Switch (see below) and goes to starter solenoid coil pin. (May be used for direct start.)

Starter wiring loop and grey connector (4.)

When the blk wiring harness shield is opened, The Starter Wire loop with its big gray connector becomes visible.

Alternator Supply wire (2./3.)

The Fusible Link Wire (GY) (disconnected), left, is located at battery end. At right is seen the same wire 250kmiles, no tuneup: Real Life oxidation... = no charge.

The alt supply wire connectors (2pcs) seen as attached to chassis near alternator. Also seen is alt gnd screw & connector. This rust is from my garage pampered 80kmiles Maxima(this view is from below)

Note: to check alternator leak, either disconnect alternator supply wire connector or these two connectors. See page 23.

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Fuse Panel

Inside Cabin

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Fuse panel inside cabin
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Dash Fuse Panel, Opened, at drivers left side. The numbered blue relays are listed in the manuals as follows:

Blue Accessory Relays at right:

1. Rear Window defrogger relay (brown!!!)
2. Accessory relay-2 (blue)
3. Accessory relay-1 (blue)
4. Ignition relay (blue).
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Dashboard fusebox lid info, here colored. The Nissan given information is misleading, if mildly put. Basically it lists fuses which are:
ALWAYS HOT=green
ACC=blk,
IGN=red (engine may be running).
Yel: The starter 10A (yel) does not affect anything in my car (=maybe remote starter?)
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Service Manual Schematics info vs. real Life:

The RELAY !!! color mismatch between manual text and real life, highligts the manual info discrepancies to the end product: Nissan technical writers have not been allowed into the manufacturing team, maybe they had to rely peeping inside their own car after office hours... this is the best scenario I can imagine. For this reason, the fuses have no number here, or anywhere in the Nissan schematics. One has only to hope the right fuse has been found: It might be in the schema, or might not.

No dash lights? Possibly rear lights shorted, its fuse blown.

I added coloring to the panel picture plus fuse numbers for later reference as this story unfolds.
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Fuse List

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Fuse panel list (inside cabin) - as listed by FSM.

Reference numbers in brackets [L]. Later the info in FSM schematics contradicts some of its own designations, so have fun. Also note some differences to my own panel picture...

LEFT fuse bank [L1-L13] ..................................................................................... RIGHT fuse bank [R1-R13]

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Note: The stock seat heater(s) are fused to L13. No Relays. Both seats switches at Hi, draw only 4.45Amps. The 10A fuse is sufficient, switches have no problems to handle the load.
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Fuse Box [B]

Engine Compartment

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Fuse box under hood, beside battery

To reference the fuses, I'll next use the numbers in brackets with B. Its beyond comprehension that Nissan originally lacks fuse numbers...
- B[1] The main fuse; 30A, Alternator, Fuse panel inside. No instrument lights, no nothing happens when ign key is turned - if this is blown. (b)
- B[2] The main Starter circuit fuse; 25A. Instrument lights will come on at ign ACC, no start if this is blown. (c)
- B[3] ABS Actuator relay (d)
- B[4] To SMJ Circuit Brakers 1&2; Power window; no window action if this is blown. (e)
- B[5] ABS Motor relay (f)
- B[6] Radiator fans; if no fans or A/C =this fuse is blown. (g)
- B[7] Headlamp fuse, left hand (no LH light if blown)
- B[8] Headlamp fuse, right hand (no RH light if blown)

Relays, 2pcs (from left):
- ECU(ECCS) power supply, called [Engine Cont]. If this relay is bad, no power to ECU, no start (dash lights ok). [B2] Provides +12V, cont via this relay contacts to IACV stepper motor coils, ECU pins 49,59.
Batt +12V is supplied to this relay coil from ign switch, via fuse R7. As activated, it closes inhibit relay [C2]. Note: for R7 & [C2]see below.
- The second relay is for theft alarm on/off (here missing).
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Relay Box [C.]

Engine Compartment

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Relay Box [C] under hood, under water reservoir.

I give these relays number, like [C2] for later reference. Why nissan has not numbered them, dunno, but that causes confusion. The arrows point to places needing some silicon to plug moisture out from this box [C].
Relays:
[C1] Fog light (not used here)
[C2] Inhibit relay (start is enabled if alarm, clutch or A/T selector switches on)
[C3] Radiator Fan3 (hig speed) ...Control from ECU, affects A/C
[C4] Radiator Fan2 ...Control from ECU, affects A/C
[C5] Radiator Fan1 ...Control from ECU, affects A/C
[C6] ASCD (automatic speed ctrl enable)
[C7] Air Condition
[C8] Bulb Check (not used here)
[C9] Horn
[C10] Wiper

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Troubleshooting

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How Starting power to ECU etc is distributed:

Batt --> B1 --> B2 --> Ignition Switch turned to ACC -->
R7 --> Engine Cont=ECCS=ECU green relay at box [B] activated --> Inhibit relay [C2] activates and ECU gets power - now is ready to control injection & spark.

When ECU relay (Engine Cont) is powered, [C2] is powered, start relay may become enabled. If Box [B]Theft alarm relay is closed, clutch -or- A/T gear selector switch closed, ign switch can activate starter relay.

Crank but No Start?
Measure +12V from MAF rightmost pin while starting: tells if ECU is alive. (if so, your pwr supply to ECU & ign sw is ok, points to inhibit switch: alarm, MT-clutch/AT-tranny sw)
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If Fuse blows - Dont blow yours
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Be warned... Healthy Fuse Notes:
- The cheapest china-type fuses may blow whenever, ratings don't match. Buy only high quality Fuses.
- A Fuse can blow and look healthy. Only swapping (or measuring) is a valid test.
- Fuse may lose contact (oxidize) and start to heat, melting its surroundings. And keep on without blowing ... FIRE HAZARD!
- Fuses have to be serviced. Take out, clean, add contact grease ----> see page 14.

If you run out of fuses, the help is near. The following is a temporary fix, also suitable when testing: Take spare wire, and strip it about 2" length. Cut/Take one thread to create a 5A fuse; three threads to create 15A fuse. Next take any blown fuse and tie your wire around fuse pins. (One wire normally 'takes five Amp load, thus six threads can take 30Amps load).

Test it:
You may test that your wire load rating is like this: Take one thread and put it in series of one std 60W headlight bulb. If your thread doesn't melt, then your 5A-wire can take that load. Add two lamps parallel, your 10A loaded 5A-wire should blow quite fast...

This trick may last for years, but still go and buy good fuses before it fails = tomorrow...

Temporary 15A DIY Fuse built from three threads. The arrow points to the three threads bridging fuse contact pins A---B. Cut all excess wire ends out neatly ... this setting may cause short circuits on adjacent circuits!

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When smbdy stands up and speaks all the words of the Eternal Life - some Honda owners tend to succumb into road a rage -attack; :_"Then they cried out with a loud voice, and stopped their ears, and ran upon him with one Accord." Acts one & seven.
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