Page 25 (Updated 23-Oct-2008)

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Axles, Suspension:

- DIY on-vehicle axle CV-boots Replacement ; [ NEOPRENE ]
- Front struts and Rear shock absorbers [ insert change ]

 

 

 

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1. Axle Boots Replacement

 

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Replacement Product: general UNI-FIT UF2101 'stretch-over-joint' neoprene boot. (Apr-08 surprise : their product codes have changed. Do Keyword Search for: "Suspension, CV Joint Accessories & Hardware" at http://www.dormanproducts.com/)
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Free Service Manual, Free Download.....see FAVORITE LINKS -page 26- FAVORITE LINKS
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Overview:
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Generally original CV axle boots last for a decade. Even on younger vehicles its good Preventive Maintenance practice to check them for cracks twice a year. Last autumn my 13yr old boots were perfect, but if you click on the first pic, you can see how the greenhouse gases have bitten the outer boots last winter... Time to replace before they rip out. If they do rip, most probably that will ruin the joint, and axles need to be replaced. New axles cost 150$ ea., so it pays to maintain them.

If your axles have already seen '100miles with ripped boots', you should get new axles: replacing boots is waste of time, as dirt has already ruined the CV bearing surfaces. One thousand miles more, and joints will start cracking no matter what you do.

Its also known that on the market you have at least five varieties of 'Maxima' axles which seem to fit, but actually wont fit. (Passenger side axles; manual vs. auto differ; see http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=555004) ... Some 'will fit' but after 1k miles drop out, some lock the differential etc. M/T bearing support [3.] bracket vs. A/T have different part numbers / different offsets (see pic below).
Having heard of these myriad problem possibilities, I just do want to postpone being 'Maxima axle expert' as far as possible... Thereby I spent some time to find boots which can be replaced while axle remains on vehicle, just pulled over. Bonus is the no play with gearbox oil.

Is it VLSD -QUESTION: When both wheels are up, rotating one wheel cause the opposite side wheel to rotate into the SAME DIRECTION. Another way to find out is just to burn rubber: both wheels spin simultaneously. If YES, then the car has VLSD. (Bad side effect/consequence: on slippery road, sideways traction is lost. Unawares end into ditch...)
VLSD: Variable Limited Slip Differential

Even if one knows the product, finding the shop is an odyssey itself: after 1½ week, zilloin overseas e-mails, trekking, I found a local shop "willing" to sell me these secret installation time saving superb products. All thks to the mfg sales person!
I was positively surprised about the hi quality of neoprene & finish, it sits nicely on the joint. Next I'll explain the replacement procedure...

However, steer clear from net shops which dont even bother to answer to an inquiry, like shopatmidway.com, rbinc.com. What will happen to yall ppl if you eventually can coax them to sell smtg if there is a defect in the product you receive?
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AXLES already SHOT?
If axles need replacement, check this link. It has good illustrations on this and other issues; the only different thing, aside UNI-FIT, in this case was that my maxima axle outer joints were pressed/closed ... http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401
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Scheduled Maintenance:
Twice a year inspection: jack car up, turn steering full, peek between folding boot rims. If any cracks are visible, start making replacement plans. Check also the axle tranny end joint boot (typically they last longer).

Original 1993, 90k miles, Nissan -boots (May-2006)

Be careful as car is lifted up. I used one block near the jack, another behind the wheel. Never trust the jack, it will crack...

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Planning:
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1. assessment: I suggest correcting all axle related problems at once -if- you intend to keep your car. If the vehicle has 150k miles, maybe axle seals are leaking, axle joints, bearings noisy, shocks shot ... If you dont know, go to two reputed shops for a evaluation while youre present. Make later the decision how to proceed; two opinions are better than one.
2. you buy the boots: This shows youre the BOSS, cant be milked...
...two for Maxima :) = IF tranny end axle boots passed your inspection.
3. a tightening tool for the purchased tiewraps -or- hi quality locking -type, easy to tighten metal wraps for each boot end.
4. 2pcs new axle end lock pins (I managed to re-use old pins)
5. tools: 2pcs 17mm wrench, 10 & 36mm wrench, hammer, couple of big screwdrivers etc, lots old magazines, grease soaking rags...
6. purchase PVC or metal pipe, inner dia min. 100mm, lenght 150mm (see below)
7. plan the repair site
8. pressure -wash the axle surroundings
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The UNI-FIT UF2101 box contains essentials, the boot, grease, two metallic tie-wraps, 14€ (about 18$ apiece). My shop loaned only a white plastic installation cone... see below how it went.

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Joint specs etc:

Maxima joint diameter is about 100mm, needing the bigger UNI-FIT UF2101 -type boot. As this boot is universal, the 'last ridge' is to be cut in this application. It may be cut beforehand (for Maxima), or as 'last phase' if you have some other vehicle with other axle size. Original outer axle boot size, measured from boot: height 95mm, inside inner dia 25mm, outside inner dia 97mm, outside outer rim dia 106mm, used cut out metal clamp lengths were 110mm & 338mm.
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At left stands the new neoprene boot side by side with the original. At right hand pic, I am cutting all excess materiel off, preparing the boot to be the right size and to fit accurately on the joint.

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Structure:

Below is semantic picture of both axles, Citroen style, non ABS, view from drivers seat. Most front wheel vehicles have this same axle structure: drivers side axle is simpler, the passenger side contains one support bearing (sometimes very time consuming to open.) The picture below shows power transmission from engine crank axle [red arrow] via Gearbox to Differential box, and both axles. Typically the outermost joint boots wear out first due to more stress, like in my case; next I depict replacement only of the outermost boots [1.] & [5.].
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Driver side axle; Outer joint[1.] and Inner joint[2.];

....................axle [3.] support bearing, [4.] Inner joint, [5.] Outer joint; Passenger side axle.
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Goal: The aim in boot swap is to get the axle end joints 'out', freely to be "operated" while axle still stays connected to transmission.

 

Procedure:
A 'standard' procedure in axle boot repair would be to buy model specific boots, take axles out, and then dismantle tranny end joints of both axles ... On many axle types like this Maxima axle, the outer joint has been pressed, and cannot be opened. Only the axle's inner joint can be disconnected from the axle, enabling boot change on outer CV joint with std rubber boots.
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Easier and faster process in this case, is using this pull-over neoprene boot. Axles can stay on the vehicle, just boots are replaced. No need to open steering or lower joints. No need to possibly spend hours trying to open passenger side 'rusted, in welded' [3.] support joint (worst case scenario).
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Freeing the axle:

Opening the AXLE END NUT & slide axle out - see below.
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Two strut attachment bolts have to be taken out. Also two ABS sensor wire bolts and brake hose supports clip has to be opened, brake hose guided out, free from support. Strut, axle/caliper-assy, brake hose, ABS sensor can stay attached.
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Two 17mm strut attachment bolts [Blk arrows], brake hose [blu] and two 10mm ABS sensor [red] support screws. At right, Brake hose locking clip is being pushed out [red arrow]

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Bolts are now out, strut assembly separates from wheel bearing assy.

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Goal for boots swap reached - axle [grn] CV joint is free and ready for operation. The Axle has first been slid out, see below.

 

 

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SHOCK ABSORBER SWAP -NOTE: The mentioned strut bolts and brake connections have to be taken out for strut change. Axle bolt opening (next phase) is never necessary in Shock Absorber swap
---> Jump over to Part 2; see below...
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Loosening the axle & end bolt
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Axle bolt opening: after uninstalling the axle nut locking pin, lock & foam shim, the 36mm nut has to be loosened.
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A steelbar is installed between wheel bolts, and then hitting the wrench with a hammer... better is pneumatic tool with a 36mm socket.

When the nut has been taken out, the whole axle will become free to move inside the inner joint borings & into the tranny differential. Tap in lightly on the axle end (left pic) and axle outer end will start sliding in, through the bearing/caliper assembly. NOTE: Use wood or plastic hammer, not to ruin the threads. (Also at beginning the nut may stay loosely on the axle to shield the threads. Take nut out only after the axle starts moving.)
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Use plastic hammer to save the threads - in case force is needed.

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Below, on the left pic we can see how the axle has come out a little, axle boring is in view. Here the rusty axle bores typically jam, and one may begin to think that "noo, this cannot ever come out like this..." Take WD-40 or some other lubricant and spray on the axle bores all around, slide it in/out few times ... Suddenly axle will flow freely, and eventually it will come out as bearing/caliper assy is bent to the side. Firmly grip the axle and guide it out. Take care not to ruin the bearing seal by letting the axle end 'drop' as assembly is bent away.
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Axle end bores sliding out from the wheel bearing assembly.

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In the next picture, the strut assembly is seen separating from caliper/bearing assembly. Note the strut assy lower hole: It is 4mm wider [click to enlarge the pic]. This allows setting the Camber adjustment = tire tilt. I like to set wheel upper 'edges' fully tilted 'inwards': enhances driveability greatly when cornering.
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Hello everybody: AXLE end is FREE!
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WARNING ---> dont pull axle! It (drivers side) will pop out ... with all the '2 gallons' of tranny oil flooding the area...
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ABS tachometer ring removal:

Note: If you use a preloader tube explained below, ring can stay in place.

At this stage, clean the bearing seals, and shield the wheel bearing itself with cloth, from getting in any sand. Add new grease if necessary.
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The white plastic tool -cone I received from my local shop was too small. Thus the ABS -sensor timing ring had to be taken out.
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Crowbar, hitting the ring lightly with hammer once, rotating axle 1/3 turn by hand, second hit ... repeat: out the ring comes...

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Wheel bearing, seal and ABS sensor (at right). Clean the dirt and shield the bearing temporarily.

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I must admit I had a patchy work in cleaning. Thus I wrapped spring and strut assembly with paper, just to keep dirt falling on the coming project. Caliper/bearing assy also has its papering share: cutting the used boot will release a 'nice' oily grease blob flowing down. Its easy to roll the dirty sheet with the grime and have instant clean 'operating room' for the next neoprene boot slide over -project.
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The open axle project has to be covered all the time. Any sand particles will ruin the joint, so fortify the joint against dirt: all work will be in vain if dirt comes in.
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Booty Business - preparing to stretch stress it over!
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At right hand (below) you can see the cone and how an attempt to stretch the boot onto the cone-end results in cone collapse. If the cone was more rigid and bigger, it would be easy just to prepare the boot&cone on a table. (Narrow, in-fitting steel ring could bypass this problem.) Then one could carry this pre stretched cone-assy on the axle for a quick release 'over the joint'.
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Now the greased cone has to be first inserted on the joint, only after that one can start stretching/pushing the well greased boot, smaller end first onto the axle. Note that axle plus joint is 'free', and the joint wants to escape like a snake... Frustrating business, to say this mildly. But I won the beast!
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. Test fitting the cone, collapsed test-trial at right

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Solutions? You decide...
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If you purchased the suggested PVC -or- metal pipe/cylinder, you may "pre-load" your boot onto it. (I did not have such pipe available during installation, thus I used pwr instead of brains...) Whatever your system is to spread the boot on this pipe, this extra installation pipe allows easy 'downhill' release onto the joint. Remember that all tools and parts the boot touches, have to be checked for smoothness, round edged, greased.
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Artistic view to CV stretch over a [grn] installation cylinder.

Note: Even if you are replacing one inner joint (because of accidental rip), you may easily pass over the outer joint utilizing such extra cylinder. In that case, the inner diameter should be 110mm. (You may 'survive' through 'our' project with 95mm inner dia pipe, if ABS tacho ring is taken off as described.)
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-----------------------> 'Toyota' News Flash; PRELOADER TUBE:
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Pics 1-3 : New boots with new installation system installed onto a Toyota CELICA 4WD front axles (axles uninstalled). Hey Mr. Unifit salesman! I think you should start compensating this for this new tool systems ... right?
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1. The rubber boot has been loaded onto a PVC-pipe that has been cut longitudinally [like a C] and compressed & taped to size, cone attached. Warning: Preloading needs muscle, strong fingers...
2. The tool assembly with preloaded boot is placed onto Celica axle (taped close to keep dirt out). Next the UNIFIT boot is pushed and dropped onto the axle, past the joint...
3. This greazy pic you should pay for seeing, eh?... boot is turned wrap around.
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...cont...
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The axle joint surface wasn’t smooth here, I taped it over, just in case.

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Splicing the Old Boot:
Booting the old boot for a half-rest [it has now found new life in my wanagon intake sound muffler:]
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Now as the stage is 'ready', cut the clamps & boot, let it roll (it =grime flows out).

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THE joint. Multiple salesmen said one could open the seemingly factory closed-pressed Maxima CV joint. It can be possibly done in a vise and using a special sliding hammer attached with the axle end nut. If done on-vehicle, the axle has to be first clamped on the supports.

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Strecth Over REALITY check
...using only one poor cone = censored, no pics:
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I greased the cone all over, the boot all inside... I ended to be greased - rolled over!
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Next I inserted my selfmade-slider-tool inside the greased boot, placed the greased cone on the axle, started wriggling the boot over the cone-nose. After interesting "on the nose stretch-game", comes the uphill push -phase. No camera (!?) while fighting the neoprene boots up the cone. Why? (my cameraman escaped to Cancun).
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It was a very private fight with my 'greasy beast': the axle was 'wriggling', greasy hands kept slipping, cone wanted to escape... In the crucial intense last 30 seconds I managed to reach out with my third hand for a screwdriver, drive it under stretched stressed neoprene boot, and twist the greasy beast over the last axle edge. Huh!
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All Over - Installed boot
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UniFit boot has found its revolving job -site: this is
the first one that was installed - and needing cutting to size.

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Boot Pluggin it in
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In goes the grease... Cleaning the grease off from the 'clamping areas' was somewhat problematic. I didn’t succeed but partially: the feeling was slippery even after tightening both clamps. I have checked now one week later, and all seems to work well. Boot wider end 'locks' on the joint, smaller end has to be crimped around the thinner area of the axle.

 

The clamps I don’t like. Supplier sells tightening tools, my shop didn’t have a clue. Anyway I got them somewhat tight just with pliers and pushing against with a big screwdriver. Later I added my own hi-quality plastic tie-wraps. Seems to be working, although the first impression was rather slippery... I suggest anybody trying this to get the tightening tool, and/or buying hi quality locking metal tie wraps.
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Tightening the clamps, ready to be installed -axle.

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Oops! Forgot the ABS ring! ... Take axle out, tap the ring in place ... Now 'the project' is re-ready to be re-re-installed...
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Sauna Memoirs
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Later shower for myself. Tomorrow the garage 'antigreasing' project: tools, door posts, handles... Oh well. But now there are lots greasefree miles ahead.
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Total project time from jacking up to installing both boots & reinstalling wheels back could be under two hours, but dont expect to 'get there' if youre first timer - I didnt. (I had simultaneously to makedo the cameraman's stunts)
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Options: Buy the original Uni-Fit installation tool (plus the mentioned pipe), or even the no-hassle pneumatic pro tool (150$), 614-030 Uni-Fit CV Boot Air Tool.

Other CV boot products: There seems to be available also other "easy to install CV products". If interested, seek for
- Bolted Split Boot = Speedi Boot
- Solvent Welded Split Boot = Quick Boot.
Some say these have reliability problems, dunno. Of course you may take axles out and go for the original vehicle specific boots (salesmen insist), then check out the Service Manual at page 26...
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Shock absorber replacement:

Front and Rear

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Note1: see first (above) how the two lower strut assy bolts are disconnected.
Note2: All wheel assembly connections, Axle, steering rod, brake hose and ABS sensor wires will remain in place.
Note3: Check out the manual's exploded -views to figure out all parts and their proper installation (see p.26)
Note4: Start spraying rust remover on depicted nuts, screws and bolts (CRC or smtg) one week before your job starts.
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FRONT:

 

Shocking WARNING: LIP -service ... never buy this kind of "Spanish" LIP struts. They lasted 20.000miles/35k km. [LIP /Made in Spain = Actually Chinese]. (Four years ago I had no other choice than to buy these [thks to EU Carparts mfg Cartel].) No warranty: sales from www.sapmotors.com duck their responsibility.

As my RH shock absorber had suddenly lost 50% of its capacity (got rejected at at local inspection), the actual measured RH braking power also diminished 15% of its performance. This underlines the fact that shock absorbers really affect braking distance and handling, ability to creep on slippery snow. The running wheels are actually jumping rubber balls - all that time they spend in the air, braking friction is just air... Healthy shocks keep them down and make u fly nearer ground - nearly always in contact. Surprising effect!

Now I just got good std German Sachs struts, they're superb compared to the LIP. Adjustable lower hole is now sadly missing...
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LIP-Service -Warning at left; RH: Open the three screws while supporting the strut assembly

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After strut brake hose & ABS wire attachment -connections have been opened, loosen the top three nuts keeping the assembly in place. Ensure that the strut will not drop on the axle boot and damage the rubber. Negotiate the assembly out while pressing the brake assy downwards.

 

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Strut Assembly removed, opening, reinstallation:

Strut assembly on the floor: Use only proper tools to compress the spring: if things slip loose, propelled by the spring, the flying objects may kill...

The two compress tools have to be inserted opposite sides, tool pawls pushed as far as possible. The springs have to be 'pried up' to fit in compressor pawls to the furthermost position under the spring. Otherwise the compressor will become closed before the spring has been compressed and free. -----> Tighten both compressors until the spring becomes loose, still 'inside' the strut assy.

Compressor tools installed and ready to be tightened

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After the spring has been compressed and become loose, the shock absorber end shaft nut has to be opened. The strut top (=bearing assy) has to be kept from rotating, see picture. After removal the end plate, the bearing has to be inspected, it has to turn freely or replaced.

 

Loosening shaft end bolt. Bearing assembly opened, bearing at right.

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Next the used strut & shaft is drawn out, new one inserted. Remember to insert the old rubber dampener to the new strut shaft before installation. After re-installing the end plate & bearing assy, tighten the shaft end nut, gradually loosen both the compressors while watching that spring seats properly (end of spring has to 'meet' the strut assembly). The noise reducing rubber seats in both spring ends have to be tucked in when the spring is tightening - or can be left out (=more road noise).

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Strut tower service:

Before re-installation, wipe the strut/wheel towers clean. Spray oil or swipe with a oily rag. This will extend chassis lifetime... If doing this job alone, I am sure that paint will be scratched during re-installation. If friends are available, bribe 'em to help you out.
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Rustproof the strut towers with oil before installation

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If somebody ever returns in this job, he will bless you when copper paste has been used (= bolts cannot rust).

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After installing everything in place, car lowered, it is a must to check out wheel alignment. At least if you have the adjustable -type struts I have, having the wide lower attachment hole (see previous pic). (While here, see also how brake tuneup is made.)

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See wheel alignment 'HowTo' at p.18 .
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Rear Shock Absorber

[insert change]:

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Preparation:

First the three top strut nuts, near C-pillars, have to be accessed and screwed out = rear seats have to be taken off, so the nuts can be accessed by pushing the rear 'shelf' upwards. They sit under the rubber "Drums" - please throw them out to maximize silence ... see rustproof & soundproof page at page 17.

Opening rear seats (at left), at right the rear strut rubber cover.

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Procedure:

If desired, rear strut inserts may also be changed while 'half' of the wheel support rods, brake hoses and h-brake & ABS -wires are still connected. After the top three nuts have been opened, the whole assembly can be pressed down and bent outwards. This may be desired with rusty settings where bolts hoses etc will brake if opened... After the spring is loosened as described above, the shaft main nut is opened, spring lifted off.
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Left rear shock absorber: top nuts taken out, assembly bent for insert swap - most rods still connected [bluebird; chassis is the 'same' as Maxima J30]

 

Strut assembly tube nut which locks in place the shock absorber insert [marked red]. This top nut is threaded and has to be opened before accessing the insert. The Nissan service manual page RA-7 calls this the [Gland packing]. My new Sachs front struts have also this 'Gland packing' allowing later the insert replacement.

The real 'Gland Packing' keeping this whole shocking Universum coherent:

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Top of the assembly is opened by rotating the top [Gland packing] seal/nut out. Old insert is taken out, new inserted in. Always half-fill the housing with 'any' engine oil before screwing the new insert in (oil is used as heat heat carrying medium - very important!). Take Care: the used oil will spill out after the assy is opened. Very BIG 'tongs' are needed to rotate the rusted in [Gland Packing]- optimal length: two feet

 

Note: the very cheap [at least 50% off] Stanza and or Bluebird shocks/inserts will fit when a suitable big washer is placed on the tower bottom before installation. In my maxima I have in the rear Sachs Bluebird -inserts now 4th year, working fine...
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Installation:

Before threading in the gland packing, clean throughly the 'tube' end inside threads & [Gland packing] nut threads from any grease. Use loctite or any bolt-locking glue to lock the [Gland packing] nut in. The RH tower [Gland packing] nut has a tendency to unscrew itself after '30k drive' - and then it will become clanking noisy... with loctite glue it will stay put. Why only rear RH strut is affected? ...beats me - read p.17 about chassis vibration harmonics and wonder.

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Rear strut has been bent sideways in a rust bitten Nissan Bluebird (like Stanza; with drum brakes) for operation. Note wooden resting-supports. This may also be done in Maxima if desired... Here in the Bluebird case all low connecting rod bolts seem to have been unnecessarily loosened.

Note1: The (four) crosswise connecting rod (point welded) ends, have been known to rip out in old Nissan's. That is disastrous when rear wheel decide suddenly to steer the car. Carefully inspect for hidden faults plus rust...
Note2: improperly placed spring compressor tool paws in the pic have closed before the spring is set loose. They have to be taken out and re-set at the 'ends' to achieve full spring compression. See above.
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Rear strut will bend sideways after removing torsion attachment bolts marked red while pushing the assy downwards.

 

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5k years old considerations by Jeremiah:
"Behold, the whirlwind of the LORD goeth forth with fury, a continuing whirlwind: it shall fall with pain upon the head of the wicked."

"The fierce anger of the LORD shall not return, until he hath done it, and until He have performed the intents of His heart: in the latter days ye shall consider it. At the same time, saith the LORD ... Yea, I have loved thee with an everlasting love: therefore with lovingkindness have I drawn thee."
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