Page 24 (Updated 23-Oct-2008)
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Automatic Transmission RE4F02A;
Mechanical
- Info, Links, Troubleshooting tips
- Transmission pan opened, valve assembly
- Three methods to change oil ; 1. Lip$ervice, 2. Full/Total, 3. Full/Easy
- Transgo A/T seal upgrade kit
- Powersteering Fluid Change
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Free Service Manual, Free Download.....see FAVORITE LINKS -page 26- FAVORITE LINKS
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Info, Links, Troubleshooting tips:
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Want to know how it works? Click on this great site for Animated A/T function principals, click here or http://www.howstuffworks.com/ seek "automatic-transmission."
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See A/T Electronics at p.15: click
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VLSD Question: How Do I Know If I Have It?
VLSD Variable Slippin Differential keeps both wheels rotating on slippery conditions.
- One way is to jack front tires off ground, rotate a wheel ---> both wheels turn into same direction; IF NO VLSD, then the other wheel turns into opposite direction
- Another way is to hit full throttle on loose gravel; both wheels will dig in...
- Transmission box stamped type code
Oil
Typically mineral oil is warranted for 30kmiles, 2yrs. My guess is 95% maximas (like yours) oil is now poor quality causing premature wear, slipping. First check oil level and color. Brown color, smell, tells of slipping and other problems. Change oil.
TSB's see for http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb
Maxima Known Mechanical Problems:
Slipping tranny:
a. Some say this service pack helps in the valves; serviceable without taking of the tranny, about 50$ ---> Service pack for RE4F04A auto tranny: www.txchange.com ... see bottom of page.
b. Some 'snake oil additives' are available, they may help, its great if they do. Use them only as last resort; dont ever never use if no problems.
c. If one of the small filters gets blocked, oil flow is reduced causing slipping. Sieves are not meant to be replaced, but may be taken off and cleaned. If pan = valve body is opened, I suggest to install the valve upgrade pack and also change solenoids. Note: severe problem already exists somewhere if this sieve gets blocked.
d. Foam in the system due to in sucked air or level too high. Check oil level. (Defoam: Idle with 2nd gear on for ½hour to reduce foam while changing vehicle in various steep angles to help bubble flow.)
An overfilled transmission may blow fluid out the dipstick tube or the transmission vent. When the level is high enough to get whipped up by the geartrain assembly in the trans, air bubbles develop and upset the hydraulic pressures that are trying to keep the clutches and bands from slipping. http://www.drwtransmission.com/info.htm
Soooo Soooft 1-to-2 change. How To circumvent this issue; see page 15 for pressure resistor bypass modding...
No Reverse -problem: Check Nissan TSB NTB96-009b.pdf
Wont Move: Nissan with an automatic that just won't move, don't start pulling the transmission until you check the soft gear on the governor shaft -- Lightsey says they tend to strip out or the pin shears, and without governor pressure you're not going anywhere. Fixing it's an easy, external job. (Note: Dunno if this relates to this maxima tranny, but its better to check, tip from www.parttrackers.com/library/1/93/104/)
Upgrades:
ATSG bulletin ; Front Pump Metal Clad Seal upgrade, found in RE4F02A/V
http://www.transmissionkits.com/problemsolvers/Alli_GM_Isuzu/NissanPumpSealRE4FO2AV.htm
Sonnax now offers a servo pin with an o-ring 69903-01K for RE4R01A. http://www.askbw.com/parts/parts/69903-01K.htm
http://www.askbw.com/parts/PDF/69903-01k(rb).pdf
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Transmission pan opened, valve assembly:
(Check FSM AT-190)
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Intake, Filterbox and battery are out: The RE4F02A top pan is opened, diagonal blk 'box' in the middle. At left, a schema of the 14 bolts... At right, the arrow points to Pressure Regulator Resistor. If you do open this pan, ensure before opening that no dirt can drop into the opened tranny.
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Here the cover is out, valve assembly = 'brains', sits still assembled, oil filling all the aluminun assembly 'pits'. At left pic, gear selector coming into the tranny. Yellow arrow points to solenoid pack connectors. At right, middle, A/T oil temp sensor [cyan] ... and green connector & wiring to the timing solenoid.
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In the following pics, the valve assembly has been taken out:
Inside the tranny, the [blu] selector/rod mechanism has a tooth edged sector [manual plate]. On this sector, there is resting a locking tooth [yellow] - spring forced. This locker mechanism positions the gear lever mechanically. You feel these notches ratcheting against the locker tooth when you push the gear selector in the cabin.
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Selector - linkage: The A/T control steel wire from cabin is seen near the firewall, here green -false color.
Reverse clutch band, above, at left, is tightened with the cyan screw. When cover is at place, it may be possible (possibly!?) check it and tighten the band via the [cyan] hole in the tranny rear wall. Brake band servo piston rod [amber] seen at left. Check for the adj procedure at FSM page AT-236.
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A/T Brains On the Kitchen table
(Check FSM AT-190)
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At left, the brains [valve assembly] sitting on kitchen table. The multiple valve cylinder structures seen vertically in this picture. At right, brain dissected into two halves, all myriad channels in/out from valves are visible. The selector manual valve rod where selector mechanism attaches, is seen at bottom left.
Picture above: Valves - 'top row', left to right; see FSM page AT-204:
Lock-up control valve
Feedback accumulator valve
1st reducing valve
Torque converter valve
3-2 timing valve
Low clutch timing valve
On 'bttom row', left to right:
Pilot valve
Manual valve
Pressure modifier accumulator valve
Pressure regulator valve
Shift 1-2 valve
Shift 2-3 valve
Shift 3-4 valve
Fixed valve
Servo release timing valve
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RE4F02A contains at least three screens, also called filters. here colored [red].
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One screen is at the 'backside' of the solenoid assembly. The solenoid assembly seen from top (at right).
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Automatic Transmission oil change;
Three methods
Foreword: Is it really necessary?
Transmission NOW...
Red Oil in the stick doesnt look too red when dropped into a bucket [driven 50kmiles]... But our Exam-Elvis below would pass it with high marks (refer FSM pic below). (This from Citroen ZX 1.8 A/T. Apparently this A/T has no external hoses to radiator allowing all oil change, thus only dropping oil is possible.)
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No wonder A/T trannies break if recommended oil change is bypassed, just inspected at every 15k! A/T fluid manufacturers recommend 2 years or 20-30kmiles between (mineral =dino) oil change; dealeships serviced maximas are inspected until the tranny $wap time arrive$, warranty expired...
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Methods 1 & 2 & 3 introduced below, you decide which is goo, better, the best...
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1. The Lip$ervice by Nissan
(= only 1/4 change: 2Liters=2quarts)
This is how deep [lol] the Nissan Service Manual digs into oil change.
Changing A/T fluid by Nissan Manual: 1. Warm up A/T fluid. 2. Stop engine. 3. Drain A/T fluid from drain plug and refill with new A/T fluid. Always refill same volume with drained fluid. Oil grade Dexron II-E. Capacity (with torque converter). VG30E 7.4L (7-7/8 US qt). VE30 9.6L (10-1/8 US qt). Drain plug 29-39nm. 4. Run engine at idle speed for five minutes. 5. Check fluid level and condition. Refer to "Checking A/T Fluid. (= to this very text...).
If (!?) fluid is still dirty, repeat step 2. through 5. Source: FSM MA-18
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2. Full/Total oil change
---DIY fluid change--- for RE4F02A --- ALL NEW oil -as it should be!
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Process Description:
Oil Change Process: after initial drain/fill, only one hose is disconnected. Drain one quart via idling, add one quart, repeated x5. Really simple.
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The almost 8 quart (8L) tranny oil may be changed in three steps, A B C. (reason is oil reservoir capacity; 2L/2quarts). First initial step A. means taking out 2 quarts of used oil, inserting equal amount (2 quarts) new oil.
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For other steps B & C, proceed with less that 2quarts. I suggest 1 or 1¾ quart maximum, so that the tranny's 2 quart reservoir will never become empty, allowing pump a chance to suck in air. This will cause foaming, later air bubble problems.
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Preparations:
- Helps if 2ppl doing together...
- Pull handbrake , Jack car front up, Prop it PROPERLY, .
- Take out splash cover below engine, drivers side.
- Find large a 2 gallon basin to drain reservoir at phase A.
- Find large hose (or one fitting to radiator), 1-3 feet to be fitted between tranny cooler outlet, basin.
- Additionally find a canister to collect cooler outcoming used oil. Use this canister to measure and keep count of outflowing OLD oil.
- Fillup is done from one quart (about 1L) canisters to keep count of added oil volume.
- Fabricate a funnel to add oil via measurement stick tube
- Spread used newspapers under car, around dip stick on the engine & all around...
Note that the following procedure is valid to most A/T trannies - limitations: Oil quantity, Locations for hose & plug.
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Transmission Cooler Hoses :
Transmission view from below; Drain plug (grn) at the reservoir, filler tube (red), return line from cooler (blk)
Transmission Cooler lines from radiator; Hose from transmission (grn), return line to A/T from cooler (blk), Clamp to be disconnected (red)
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General A/T Oil flow diagram (Depicted Oil Flow here is CW)
Oil in the A/T needs to be pumped: the pump lifts the oil from reservoir to the turbine. Oil circulates in the gear specific channel systems; this is why in the next procedure all gears are played during oil change. (Also towing for long distances with dead engine should not be done: theres no lubrication when engine -connected pump is not rotating.)
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Oil Change Procedures A -B - C
A.
Drain the tranny: one drain plug, drivers side. The whole 'reservoir' is emptied (see the pic above: area below dip stick & near drain plug). Little over 2 quarts flows out. That is about 1/4 of ALL u oil.
Clean the plug magnet. (Too bad if large chips found)
PLUG IT IN. Add 2 quarts new oil via stick tube...
Now u 'oil reservoir' is full new oil, but "the system" with 6 quarts contains still the used shmuck.
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Measure always the quantity. Equal Oil Amount: when quart comes out = quart goes in etc.
Left: Reservoir emptied to basin. Right: Fill the Reservoir with NEW ATFluid, disconnect cooler hose...
Wipe clean the round magnet in the plug end, re-install. Tighten to 29-39nm
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Oil Change Procedures A -B - C .
B.
Open drivers side tranny cooler hose, at radiator bottom. Install extra hose to cooler, other end to a large enough measurement container. Start engine, run about 10 sec while playing through gears ---> UNTIL 1 to 1,75 quarts/Liters of OLD oil is pushed out by the incoming new oil. Don’t idle so long that the pump has chance to suck reservoir empty. Add equal amount new oil via measurement stick tube... (If air is sucked in, all is NOT lost, but still it will create problems to be tackled.)
Repeat this step B until total of 6quarts /6Liters OLD oil has been measured taken out. This volume is based on 8L tranny like VG30E RE4F02A. (In the end, total swapped amount should be equal or exceed total capacity.)
Left: Pumped NEW oil is pushing old oil out. Right: Fill the Reservoir again, empty your measurement canister...
Halfway House when 4 quarts/Liters oil has been taken out, 4 quarts of new oil has been inserted. (Quart=0.95L)
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Left: NEW oil is pushing old oil further still. Right: Fill the Reservoir again with equal amount, empty the measurement canister...
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Oil Change Procedures A -B - C
C.
Start engine, run about 10 sec while playing through ALL gears and the last quart of OLD oil has been pushed out... now new red oil will be seen flowing out. Your OLD oil has been pushed out, Tranny System has been filled with new. Add the last missing quart of new oil via measurement stick tube...
Left: Now all used OLD oil has been pushed out. Right: Fill the Reservoir again with equal amount of NEW ATFluid, connect cooler hose...
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Oil Change Procedures A -B - C
- A + B + C -
- Re-insert the cooler tube, tighten.
- Let idle for 5 minutes.
- Measure oil level. Add/Take out as necessary.
- Clean the mess, go to Sauna.
- Compare to FSM 'guide'. Go for a ride. Awesome!
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End Notes:
- I think the word "flush" does not illustrate this oil change realistically. At least what I did, I just changed oil, did not use any new oil to 'flush' anythin.
- The FSM A/T section is really poor in its explanation: all valves and channels are depicted in detail, however, the concept of oil reservoir and or issue of cooling is never even touched, let alone explained! In this aspect, the manual is as kids crayon book.
- The depicted oil change procedure does not differ any way from normal flow: I will NOT dive into issue if oil change procedure ("flush") is bad or good: I gotta wash my face daily and face the consequence of seeing my face & face reality... Just have to hang between these two A/T realities: Surely floatin dirt kills, with or w/o oilchange. New oil is better!
- Oil grades: I did a search and found A/T oil prices, between 2-30$ per liter/quart. When 2$ price per q/L (in 50 gallon barrels) is double compared to similar engine oils, the higher end is price gouging. Surely gold priced synthetic oil is better, but NOT 15x better! The auto industry has been running with dino oil last 60 years w/o problems. Full synthetic oils were not even available when 3gen maxima was born in 80's. This sudden urgent 'need' for all synthetic can be seen on the price tag: dont fall on that if your not racing or some other special needs. Give a hearty laugh at the face of the besserwisser gougeguru$ when they try to rob u the 300$ (plus work). Dont pay any extra because A/T pricey imago: oil is oil, be it burned in engine or lamp... Make sure your new fluid fulfills or exceeds the requirements in owners manual. (Maxima Dexron III)
- It is better to regularly change oil, than have super quality oil w/o any change: accumulated dirt is never taken out.
- I think the A/T fear factor for total oil change has been pumped up, but surely this hype has some sources. The main issue may be too long idle phases, too much oil taken out on one step, causing air suck-in as reservoir level drops too low: 1. Air bubbles do not match with hydraulics, 2. Foam may really get soot flowing, be it OLd or new oil. (Note: old oil also may foam, cause the fearsome dirt to float, especially if oil level gets too low. Or if u use u car...)
They Say Seals Start Leaking:
- Seals keep oil in, 'nothin' to do with function.
- Old vaseline will not leak out - even if seals are worn beyond repair = Worn seals which keep thick stuff, will leak out 'thinner' new oil.
- Some AT fluids contain seal swelling components which are added to cause them to tighten around axles; from this viewpoint new oil is better with worn seals
Slip after change:
- If reservoir oil level goes too low, pump sucks air: this creates foam = micro bubbles, they later raise, possibly in the valves. It may take long time for microbubbles to gather into a spot where their volume compromises valve function, cause slip. Bubbles that form hydrolocks in any complicated fluid system, may become pain to get out (A/T channel & valvesystem IS very much complex).
- The maxima.org fluids -page that suggests (20 sec idle) 2 quarts out / 2 quarts in -change procedure, is not good for VG30E tranny RE4F02A. After the initial drain, the bled volume has to be:
a. Less than the initial reservoir volume of 2 quarts/Liters
b. MEASURED, (equal out=in)
c. between 1 - 1,75quarts/Liters for VG30E tranny RE4F02A.
d. Idle =pumping time less than 20s. (10-12s should be ok.)
- Hydraulics do NOT work if air is in the system: Four days after my oil change, 2nd gear started slipping, fourth morning, when cold. (I drove only few miles during those days). I am now certain that the used swap procedure caused the foaming, then microbubbles slowly raised up and filled 2nd gear valve system.
Solution: I kept engine idling 1/2 hour with 2nd gear on, bubbles (also seen in the stick) vanished. Problem gone. If problems persist, cont idle with R, 1st on, then car at different steep angles. The idea is to get air in the box in such corner that the warmed oil pushes it out. Also bubbles are 'released' by steadily pumped 'slow' moving warm oil. Still, getting air pockets out might be pain. The air bubbles in the oil might be because of the Teboil E (Dexron III) oil quality; if foam problems persist, I am going to seek anti foam agents to fill into the tranny, or change another oil type... developing story; 3 Weeks later: going strong!
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3. Full/Easy
Most practical way to change A/T fluid
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3.1. old out / new in ... here I use the 30$, 12V oil pump to keep things clean.
3.2. idling for fifteen seconds - will suck about 2 quarts = all new oil into the system.
3.3. Goto 3.1 . = repeated, total is 3-4 times.
While idling, do play through all gears so that all the various gear channels have a chance to get new oil flow through.
Result: Most oil has been swapped, while no danger to get air bubbles.
Imperfect: used oil is being pumped onto new :( and gets mixed... in the reservoir.
An 12V oil extractor/filler -pump with extra extension hoses. Use only for warm oil, these cheap pumps do break on thick cold oils...
Preventive Maintenance:
Remember later to check level when hot.
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Transgo A/T seal upgrade kit:
Transgo A/T seal upgrade kit arrived ... about 50$ ... but no need at the moment, read p.15 why not. Also, this kit is all about opening the whole tranny, nothing to do with this while tranny on car.
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Kit box, contents:
Box, contents...
Where the seals go: deep inside, on main axle
According Transgo fix Guide, contents will help in:
- Falls out of gear STOP sign, hot
- Delayed Forward engagement
- No 3rd after 3-2 or 4-2 kickdown
- 4-3 or 4-2 kickdown runaway
- Burns up the 3-4 clutches
- Direct clutch (3rd) inner seal leak; wears falt or opens up
- Soft 1-2 and 2-3 (Here --->see my remedy at p.15)
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Few Diag tips on the Transgo fix guide paper:
- Kills Engine in gear; ctrl cyl rubber seal, TCC ctrl valve plug broken
- Falls out from fourth gear (OD): solenoids have been installed improperly
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Powersteering Fluid Change
Steering fluid reservoir, filter being pulled up
Steering fluid may be changed the same way as A/T fluid. Here I became lazy, and dropped down to Nissan -level:
- Shield engine compartment around reservoir
- Open Steering Fluid reservoir,
- Pry out the white plastic filter.
- Suck old fluid out until reservoir is empty, half liter/quart (Fabricate a small (?half quart) plastic bottle: drill a hole in its cap, push a tight fitting 8" hose in. Install cap. As bottle is squeezed, hose end dipped into reservoir bottom and pressure released, produced vacuum sucks fluid & dirt into the bottle. See brake bleed p.18)
- Put the filter in. Fill with new ATF DexronIII or IIe. Close cap.
- Drive few miles, repeat.
- After one week check level. Add/Take out as necessary.
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"And the world passeth away, and the lust thereof: but he that doeth the will of God abideth for ever. "; Peter
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