Page 2 (updated 29-Nov-08)

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Air Intake

- Modified Intake
- The Broken Exhaust Studs

Free Service Manual, Free Download.....see FAVORITE LINKS -page 26- FAVORITE LINKS

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Modifying the Intake

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More hp from nissan V6 VG30e; Air intake streamlining

VG is a typical marketing engine in stock configuration. For marketin strategy the engine has been defined to be choked to produce tame family values for old ladies -segment. I can hear the Nissan 80's chief strategist Yamazaki Kuzimoto bellowing: "VG has to be 30hp below our sporty VE-engine!! I cant accept that VG has more pwr with half the production costs!!"

As result, the true VG-lions can be released by us from his cages by opening the air intakes... If u peek behind the battery, u may see the laughable stock intake choke produced by engineering dpt to tame the engine according sales demands... Every inch after that until the pistons contain myriad restrictive spots.

Yes, this is really first air intake part of VG engine: "The hidden wünderkrautz..."
First intake tubing part: 1. Air intake opening behind drivers side headlamp, arrow shows air inflow; 2. Resonator bending down, 3. Most restrictive spot hidden behind battery (about 1.5 x 2"); 4. the attachment to filterbox (this is clearly visible)

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Below are some easy tips to waken some of the more than hundred sleepin' horses. First issue below creates an bypass to the worst choke just depicted... Note that these suggested mods result in more noisy environment during launch.
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The cover flange is taken out, then the cover hole is grinded as large as MAF & intake tubing (Surprisingly the cover hole diameter is 1,5 mm = 5% smaller than MAF!). Right pic: Edges being grinded into low angle...

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Filterbox 'opened' before filter by drilling holes on the sides.

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SCI - Modification (Swiss Cheese Intake):

Stock intakes typically are restricted to get noise level down and also to restrict horsepower to be freed on next year model.... There are quite a lot to do with tools and thin king. Usually most restrictive is the first intake tube part before filter. Cheapest way is to drill 4-6 one inch holes to the filter box before filter and duplicate the flow capacity. (glue some ? foam inside the box walls to dampen)

Next hone all intake parts to maximum diameter, first measure and calculate how many square mm you have in each part up to the valves... The parts are manufactured in big series and series dedicate what they are like. In quite many cars the intake system air flow capacity varies along the way up to 30%. Streamline all. All extra notches, angles, curves, meshes - take off. Resonator(s); close off. One is shown below, some will remain hidden... guess which.
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Intake Tube:
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Poorly manufactured, crimped black plastic intake tube, engine end: 17% restriction. VG30E overall air intake diameter is 70mm, but this one 66mm choke was left in the Nissan plant... Now it was cut off to release all horses.

The Crimped plastic intake tube, engine end, before and after honing.

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Main Resonator closed. At right, TB seals had to be trimmed as factory installation had been blocking airflow (see arrow).

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Stock Filterbox

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Filter box cover 'study':
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The stock filterbox cover is also a confuzean tech marvel: air volume is too low, intake tube opening sits too near the filter. Thus sucked air dust forms a 'picture' of the air suck hole, on the filter. This means that only 10% filter area is really used. Implication is bad choking filtering system...

Cone filter is a solution... Why not for me:
I want to see an enclosure around my filter. Neither does the escaped intake noise fit mama's taste. Also I want good filtering - then paper filter is the only way to go.

Testing: I just added one inch plastic 'shim'. This raises the top cover 30mm from filter surface. Butt dyno registers a boost; I am confident that the dust ring wont appear, but whole filter surface is now more uniformly used. This means less restriction turned into increased airflow.

Here's the test shim, sitting on filter's edges ... it seems to be working well. Cover attachment still temporary, thus no pics on actual implementation...

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New intake -project:
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The test above proved me to get rid of the stock intake altogether. The end result was all new design unto the TB, including a round filter plus enclosure. Air comes now from inside the fender, splash guard ajar towards the wind.

At this stage my intake will not be depicted - the surprising results are shown in the video. Comparing pwr: 3L V6 280hp A/T turbo volvo accel time is 0-60mph 6.5s (comparable with my current 'overweight' chassis), my best time is 6.0s...

The best issue in here is that ---> NO TURBO! This means immediate seamless N/A power from kickdown, no lag. Really hilarious city driving without the sad racing characteristics... Long intake still guarantees torque while cruising.

Hopefully this intake-series continues soon, here seems to be too many competing projects...
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This is how it goes these days on autobahn ramp, stock ECU has now learned his MAF lesson... Under 6.0 sec 0-60mph. If all goes well in the launch a 0.5 sec is still shaved off.... Old stock exhaust with original CAT, engine is now 95k miles, "straight from factory" = no mech modding. Chassis is heavier than stock plus all my gear in ... Read all other pages what else. As I get a chance to get on track, I guess I'll post a new 1/4 mile 13sec (?) video.

Click here video linky -->Six sec 0-60 mph
Click here video linky -->When 3rd will click???
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Heres the N/A Super Burbo (= B-ucke-t-urbo):

I decided to tst a totally new filterbox; 10L Bucket with 100mm inlet/outlet, round biggie filter in, bigger MAF plus 'some' more mods further along... I know its ugly, but its just experimental. Breathing problems no more. The filter is cheap round Mahle Air Filter SKU: W0133-1631038

Where do the horses come from? Only from burned gas... and that needs 'some' oxygen. I guess next issue is adding more gas: see below old diagonal intake tip (see top of page, first figure item no 1.) ...here placed for comparison inside currently used 100mm hose.

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Here's a good link what aussies do with their intakes:
http://autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0637
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Exhaust Manifold Studs

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EXHAUST SYSTEM
27-May-08:

Here Starts a new series on the exhaust. First the notorius VG30e crap exhaust studs... to be continued after swapping the studs. Engine will be out soon.

One writeup linky Exh Studs R&R

The RH front stud just dropped. Quick fix is below, gets by until the serious real fix arrives = all manifolds out, old studs out, new better studs in...
Red arrow points to place where the stud sat for 15 yrs... yellow arrow points to the temporary fix.

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Injectors

(under construction)

Bue DOT injector at left, Blk DOT injector nozzle end at right. (The color mark is on top of the connector)

The "DOTS" pointed by red arrows...

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CAI ?

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CAI - driving illusion, stationary benchpower:
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Turbulences:

Car speed & ambient temp define the temp under the hood [plus engine wasted heat energy]. The engine bay is basically one huge down open air press scoop [stock vehicle]. Measured temp readings depend on the temp sensor locations. Over city speeds, the temp differences to ambient temp, are average 1C.

The air oxygen energy content is a temp dependent variable that can easily be calculated. In car engine applications, few degrees plus/minus do not make significant difference which is the case under/around a moving vehicle.

Air Intake location does surely make a difference, mainly at idle or low speed.
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If one wants to ensure the best intake location in one vehicle, measuring the temps, (turbulences & pressures) around the true environment (=moving car) is the only way to go. The whole vehicle creates a varying turbulent environment around the car AND under the hood (also air pressure is lidl above ambient). Badly selected input location always feeds the engine the undesirable [warm] air. Under standing vehicle's hood the input location is most significant.

Nowadays all cars have scoops on the front -dunno why is this- cause the scooped air velocity never reaches even 10% of the max air velocity in the intake: all cars already have a 'CAI' =cold air intake... Of course aftermarket CAI's have superior airflow to stock intake, but the only real power up thing -to break the tranny- is just to go plain turbo.
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" 'These horses' are prepared against the day of battle: but safety is of the LORD." ; Proverbs 21
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