Page 13 (Updated 29-Oct-2008)
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Doors:
- Window Ctrl Electronics
- Led Games, Dash Voltage gauge
- Lock Schematics
- Sagging door / Laggin Lock / Whinin windows
- Rear seats structure pic
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Free Service Manual, Free Download.....see FAVORITE LINKS -page 26- FAVORITE LINKS
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Door Lock Motor
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Window Ctrl Electronics
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Passenger door window PCB's have IGN controlled logic DATA LINE supply from driver side PCB - no IGN controlled +12V. As driver pushes his door button, the PCB sends data signal to that passenger door. Passenger door receiver PCB directs its door motor power up/down depending on the received DATA. Applied voltage direction to motor defines movement direction (up or down). (see schema purple wires to motors).
Schema for door Window logic board arrangements; note window ctrl via data lines (here grn).
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Door Window Logic; Troubleshooting:
See also page.5 fuse tables.
Each door has its own PCB. Drivers door window keyboard functions as controlling transmitter, other door panels are called receivers. Pushing drivers door win sw, activates the +12V window motor supply voltage with desired polarity to drivers door. If drivers door passenger switches are pushed, driver door sends now logic signal to relevant receiver. Logic signal defines [in the designated door PCB] which way that window regulator moves...
The logic signals are really weak, and operate at 0-5V levels. (STUPID! arrangement...) Thereby moisture and/or bad connections can easily make whatever... (The driver door PCB will become paralyzed at about 26milliAmps load.)
If condensation is suspected, I suggest u look for moisture and dry all. Then spray cleaner on contacts, add contact grease on EVERY pin, every door... Look also for healthy +12V and grounding connections in each door.
For pass door troubleshooting purposes u might try to swap the door PCB assemblys between doors. Each Regulator (=motor) may also be directly hot wired to troublsehoot, or get window moved. If a receiver is blown, it is easy to bypass using older nissan switches.
1989-92 maximas have a window TSB, click:
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB92-058.pdf
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Led Games
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Installing Leds :
Marker LED installation for door handles, window switches. The door lock handles seem to be a mystery for new passengers: in the dark they caant find their way out. Leds help in orienteering...
I took off the front door key panel and drilled 3mm holes, inserted leds (with 390 Ohm resistor) for front window switches. One extra bypass switch was added to raise the windows while ign key is off, doors open. On the handle top screw hole there's a blue ultraviolet led toward dashboard.
The door lock button got yellow led, under the panel (no holes).
Passenger door LED's [corrected txt, schema 25-Sep-2005]:
All doors have +12V always present, no supply is IGN controlled. Power to window regulator motors is delivered via each door receiver PCB.
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You may use the [red] supply wire for leds; if you install one relay which cuts pwr off when IGN sw is off as it is drawn to the schema.
Another possibility: For passenger door leds I used this always present logic supply from drivers door PCB. If 390 Ohm resistors were used, they would drain the logic supply, and rear windows would not work. Thereby I added the passenger door leds with 4kOhm resistors. With the 4k each led drains only 2mA. Together they load the driver side PCB about 12mA. (The driver door PCB would become paralyzed at about 26milliAmps load.) This means that u cannot see the leds at daylight, but at night their brightness is enough. Well, these light still fulfills the purpose of showing passengers where/how to open the door/win at night...
Passenger door window switch & led; door latch well & led..
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Dash Voltage gauge
Dashboard Voltmeter:
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NOTE May-22-05: This Volmeter readings seem to be intermittently pure fantasy. I became suspicious its readings, and added std dmm to cigarette lighter output. When the 'real gauge' shows constant 14.0V, this toy floats between 13.2 to 15Volts. No good. (I almost bought a new alternator). Now this toy has been thrown out...
I added a in/out temp gauge plus digital volt gauge (2.). Big battery pack inside will last ten years (for gauge measurement). It has green panel light from hazard sw supply (always hot) cause I want to be aware of my batt situation always, before after start... The gauge voltage measurement was factory connected together with back light, so now I have small override switch to take it out if so desired (1.). Of course the gauge goes time to time berserk of the starter motor spikes into the 12V plus voltage, so I had to add (!) reset sw (pwr off/on)... oh boy whata system. Still now it is how I want it to be...
In the picture one can see the six led added row (3.) towards the climate control panel. Used 390 Ohm resistors for each, drilled 3mm holes for the leds, glued wires in with hot glue.
The no 4., side kick panel, is the worst road noise place in J30 Maxima. Take that plastic off, and fill in with smtg dampening... (See p.17 for noise insulation)
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This is how my night moodydash looks now at night.
Near handbrake is one ultraviolet blue led which gives nice glow on the black surface, gear selector. 4 Floor light superleds with 390 Ohm R.
Still I've got 'one' problem: The steering wheel has now leds ready for cruise ctrl panel, the panel has switches but no power present...
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Lock Schematics
see FSM page BF-12
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(Keypad user info -link http://www.apro.org/_Keyless_entry-26219276-358-a.html)
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Door lock pwr comes via Batt fusible link (grn), under the hood. Then the wiring to door locks goes through the Super Multiple Junctions =SMJ's. There is a circ breaker in the left farthest corner under dash. There it goes -DIRECT- to door lock timer, a box under dash. 'These boxes' tend to have bad solderings; resolder helps in such case.
If I got it right, door keyhole switch gets juice via 10A fuse [L12], see p.5
Link for repairing door lock timer: http://www.thewardrops.com/maxima/
(Note: The timer location mentioned on that webpage varies, compare to the pic on ASCD p.19)
Door Lock circuit schematics
The Door Key Lock Switch is at bottom of the RH picture... There seems to be error ("ENGINE ROOM" is actually the door). The Factory schematics contain text: "Engine room harness" - cant be true.
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Sagging door / Laggin Lock / Whinin windows
How to get factory look and feel - Fast and Cheap.
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The door problems which start after 60k - are also indicator of age & mileage...
Easy facelift, renew the door functionality like it was straight from factory...
1. Door seals: Whining, old, somewhat hardened top seal. The rubber seal can be raised up [red arrow] by placing an insulator tape underneath, here false colored yellow.
2. Worn Door Lock Stopper, humble uself, bow down and inspect yours from below: Lock stop block has rubber cover for super excellent soft nice locking. BUT. It wears out. One remedy is to rotate it around 180 degrees like in here...
Here my yellow paint spot marks the door lock's meeting point. Click to enlarge the pic - and see how the rubber on the inner [here only visible after turn-around] side was worn out - steel peeking... Locking the door had become a SLAM! The hardest issue in this mod is to open the screws. Screws need hammering on the screw edge with chisel, tangentially. Will ruin the screw looks... After turning it around, adjust door lock stopper until door slides and clics in.
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3. Worn hinge pins, cheap but real laborious to swap: Sagging hinge quick fix: put a coin or washer (yel) under the hinge, first loosen the lowest screws, raise door to fit it in. Tighten.
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Rear seats
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Thy Word is a lamp unto my feet, and a light unto my path. Ps.119
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