Page 7

How To Guides

Updated October 6, 2008

Newest at bottom

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I decided to turn this page into a 'How To' page because I was tired of trying to find out how to do stuff, locate things, take parts off, ect... The internet wasn't really a big help for this kind of thing (at least not in a way with lots of pictures). So, I took it upon myself to do it. I am sure you might look at this and say 'Why didn't you just ____ the ____?' Well, the answer is because I have never done it before and I did it in a way that made sense to me. Hopefully I can convey my methods understandably to ya'll and help others out. I also didn't feel that the intake truly deserved its own page considering how much other stuff I have done, am doing, and will do to the car. Enjoy.

P.S. Guides that took multiple days are separated by rows of stars corresponding to the different days. Different guides are separated by two rows.

P.S. I AM NOT A MECHANIC! Just saying. I might have done something 'improperly' and don't know the names of all the plugs and stuff. Don't do it my way unless you have a lot of free time and can remember how it goes back. It is always better to have some professional do it (but its more fun, and cheaper to do it yourself - assuming you don't break it)

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Dec 21, 2004

The intake finally came today. I was lucky that the filter ended up being red. I put it on today as well - of course. It was pretty easy to put on except it came with one clamp that was too small (which I got a new one to replace for like $2.19 at ACE hardware) and the rubber hose was a bit stiff (because it was cold - I put it in hot water for about two minutes and it loosened up). There was only one SMALL scratch on it and it was on the underside where it wouldn't show so I don't really care. The back part of the filter was a little messed up on 7 of the ridges (or whatever you call them) but again it is on the back so I don't care. I don't think that that will be much of a problem. It even came pre-drilled for the sensor and included a rubber grommet to put it in! After I installed it it had a weird sound like someone sucking in air (duh) really hard and loudly. The sound died down after awhile and isn't as noticeable now. It still sounds different (in a good way) - especially at high and low revs (at middle range rpm's it is overpowered by the engine itself for some reason). Overall I would say that I am happy with it.

Rating: 4.5 out of 5 stars

Recommend for others: YES!!!

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Here is the stock intake that I am going to replace:

The box it came in:

The box opened:

Fresh out of the box:

What the front of the filter looks like (sorry about the dark picture - I didn't know it looked like this to take a new one until after it was installed):

The intake hose removed:

Half of the factory intake being removed (the other half was bolted down - note the existing filter):

Empty space where the intake used to be:

The filter grate where the intake attaches to the throttle body:

The intake on and with the sensor in place but missing the clamp nearest the engine:

The clamp finally on the intake:

The finished engine:

Anyone need a stock intake off a 1997 Buick LeSabre to replace their's? I have one now if anyone wants it. LOL.

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I am going to add a ram air type device to the intake system to give it a little bit more air flow. I am going to run a tube from the front bumper scoops to the front of the filter.

Here is the tube to be run (it stretches up to 8 feet long):

This is the location behind the front bumper and in front of the radiator where the pipe will collect air:

This is the hole that was too small to fit the large 3" pipe for the intake. (Note - It would have fit in except for the headlight blocking part of it.):

After I cut away a piece of metal at the bottom of the hole to enlarge it. You can see the metal sitting above the hole where I set to show how much was removed. Sorry for the blurry picture:

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Feb 15, 2005

I finally did it. I finished the ram air scoop system today! It looks pretty sharp (and is too, I cut myself 4 times on it while putting it in lol). It took a while to do, mostly because of the metal of the scoop being a PITA to drill (side note - I don't have drill bits for metal, just bits used to cut wood) That tube also kept getting in the way a lot as well. But it is on none the less and works fine (i.e. didn't fall off going down the highway). Thanks to buickbear from here on cardomain for his help with the idea. Here are some pics of it.

Here are the parts that I got at Lowes for it (I only ended up using 2 bolts):

Here is the rubber thing that I had to remove so that the tube would be easier to put in:

Test fitting the scoop:

Finished installing and taping:

Completed scoop and front of the car:

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March 7, 2005

Here is one more pic of the inside of the scoop where I taped the gaps up with aluminum covered tape.

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March 25, 2008

Removing the PCM

Here is how to get to and remove the PCM (powertrain control module) from you LeSabre. It is "in" the intake of cars who don't already have a replacement intake like mine. See the top of this page for how to remove the intake first and then come back. First, unplug the negative battery terminal - or both if you really want to, just put the positive back on first if you do that. Basically, underneath the intake box is a smaller plastic box. This box has two covers on it for protection of the enclosed computer. Remove the first cover, and then the next. Simple, I know. In here you will see the PCM with the control wiring on top. There are two, 8mm bolts that hold the plugs in. Unscrew these bolts and the two connector pieces should come off relatively easily. Keep the orange rubber seals in the connectors so they aren't lost. Then replace the two covers in reverse order so as not to lose anything and then when you receive the new PCM (or updated one) replace it back in the reverse order of how you took it out. Just make sure not to over torque the 2 bolts on the connectors - remember - they are not under any load, they are just there to keep the connectors secure.

Outer cover

Inner cover - looks the same but smaller

With covers off

Out of the car from the top

The two connectors by themselves

The side of the PCM

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March 26, 2008

Removing the Throttle Body

This one is to be explained more by the pictures than as a wall of text. Hopefully this one (since it is more complicated) will be easier to read in this manner.

What it should look like assuming you have a custom intake. If not remove the intake as per instructions at the top of this page.

It should then look like this. (Also assuming you have taken the screen out.) If you haven't taken the screen out just put a little hook through each of the rings in the ring clamp and squeeze it out. Then just push the screen to rotate it and pull it out. Try not to damage it like I did if you ever plan on using it again. (Some cars have a rougher idle because of this)

This is the plug that should be in your intake tube. Be careful removing it because like everything else, it needs to work when you put it back in.

Next, unplug all of the plugs that are attached to the throttle body. There should be three and they should be relatively easy to remove. Make sure not to break the clips and don't forget which one came from which part.

For this next part I used a tupperware tub to catch the coolant from the hose (and a paper towel for the over spill though there wasn't much). The reason I did this was to give my ratchet more room to turn when accessing the bolts by getting that hose out of the way. The other reason is because there is some coolant in the throttle body area anyway and its better to not have that leak into your engine (or on it if you are a neat freak like me).

These are the nuts (and one bolt in my case) that are on the three 'corners' of the throttle body where it attaches to the intake manifold. I think only the nuts should come off but my top one came with the whole bolt as well. No matter because it screws in on both sides. Just make sure not to lose them! I am also going to be replacing the upper intake manifold as well so I won't need them but if you aren't doing that then be very careful.

1)These are the two throttle cables. Left goes to the foot pedal and the right one comes from the cruise control. To get them unclipped from that bracket I used an allen wrench to push the clips out of the little holes (you can see them unclipped already in the picture) and then they just slide up. Do I really have to tell you to be careful not to break anything? They seem fragile to me.
2)The 'hard part' is taking them off the spring set up. But really (as I found out) its really as easy as it looks. Just pull the big clip off the post on the cruise control wire and the left one (which is on a small rod held in by two plates) rotates up and slides to the right. You will see where the cable fits through a notch in the right hand plate. Sorry I don't have a picture of this part but once you see it you should know what I mean.

There are two rubber connector things that go to something to do with fuel (I think) but no worries, they don't really have anything in them. These are on the left side of the throttle body. Pop those off (carefully) and hopefully they won't give you any trouble. The top one did for me so I just pried it up a little with a screw driver as I was pulling it off and it came off fairly easily after that.

There you can see all the cables undone, the tubes pulled off, the coolant drained, and the bolts removed. That thing is just ready to say goodbye to your engine. (Seriously though you are done now)

Ta-Da

That is gross. Look at all of that carbon build up in there. That can't be good for air travel..

The front looks so constrictive. Hopefully those ZZP boys can free up a good amount of room in there. : )

And here is the upper intake looking sad because it is missing its counter part. Oh well, its going to the trash (for me at least - unless someone wants it) because I ordered a new reinforced one. Good thing too because it has some pretty serious carbon build up as well.

After all is done, mail it off (or whatever, clean it, ect..) and put it back on in reverse order. If you aren't getting a new upper intake you might want to get a new gasket (orange thing in last pic) even if it looks fine just in case. New gasket - $3.95 new engine -$3950.00 The math practically does itself lol. I hope this was helpful to at least some person. Also, you can probably do any of the middle steps in whatever order you want (maybe even unbolt it last) it will still come off the same. Just make sure to put it back where it needs to go and don't forget any plugs or you will set off your engine light and possibly damage something. Don't over torque screws/bolts/nuts either. You don't want to break it after all your hard work do you?

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April 3, 2008

I have gotten everything back on my car and starting the tuning process and getting out the 87 octane and replacing it with 93, ect.. So here is another "how to" for those who might want to know.

Thermostat Removal

This one is pretty simple.
1) Drain some coolant.
2) Unscrew/unclip the upper radiator hose from the metal housing on the engine.
3) Unbolt the metal housing and remove it.
4) Pry up the thermostat (on 97-98 vehicles there is a paper gasket as well as a rubber one) I had to use a screw driver to leverage the thing out.
5) Put a new rubber gasket around new thermostat and put it where you took the other one out.
6) Put a new paper gasket on.
7) Bolt the housing on
8) Connect the hose and refill the radiator with as much coolant as you let drain out.
Done.

I took it one step further and brush cleaned the housing and painted it with high temp (500*) silver paint for looks. Obviously this isn't needed but you know me..

Pics:

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April 4, 2008

Removing the Upper Intake Manifold

This is another guide by pictures. It isn't perfect but I didn't want to upload 50 pictures for it. Think of it as a sort of fill in the blanks. : ) This is also assuming that you have already done the other "removing of" things from earlier in the page.

This is what it should look like when you start this portion of the process

Remove the spark plug wires

Tag them so that you don't forget which one goes where. You don't want them firing in the wrong order

Remove all of them, not just the back 3

Unclip the big clip on the front

The unclip the plug on the side

This is a plug for the fuel injector. Remove all six of these by pushing in on the small metal piece and pulling up on the plug. Be careful..

All of the wires are now unplugged

Move the wire bundles out of the way and you will see the two bolts on the front of the fuel line that need to be removed

In this picture you will notice that the upper alternator bracket is removed. Thats the only one you should have to take off. You don't need to take the alternator and belt unless you really what to or unless you are removing the lower intake as well. (Which I didn't do) You should be able to get to the back two fuel line bolts.

There are several of these types of clips that hold the wire bundles in place. The easiest way I found to get them off was by pressing in one side of it with a flat head screw driver and tugging gently to start it through the hole and then pushing in the other side with the screw driver while pulling it out.

That bolt in the center was a pain to get out. It is best approached by having two extension pieces on the end of your ratchet (as are most bolts on the back of this thing) I highly recommend getting two of them because it will make your life a lot easier.

Here is the fuel rail removed. To unhook the fuel lines from it just squeeze the little clips underneath the lines where they connect to the rail. Be careful and have some paper towels ready because there will probably be some fuel that comes out. To get it out you must wiggle, pull, curse, and pop out the injectors. It will be a pain - no lie.

Ok, now it is off and you should have clear access to the bolts holding down the upper manifold.

Except for the (top down view) top right one. Now you know why you had to remove that P.I.T.A. bolt earlier.

Here are all of the bolts laid out in the same order that I removed them from the upper intake. This will help when you put them back in because you know they should fit. To remove the upper intake just lift up. There shouldn't be any resistance. If there is then you probably missed a bolt somewhere.

Here is what the engine should look like with it removed.

Inside the intake

Just put everything back on in the reverse order (following the instructions on your new upper intake of course). After everything is back in this is what the new EGR pipe should look like. No more melting plastic intake!

NOTES:

1) When you remove a bolt and the part that it was holding in, put the bolt back in the hole it came from. That way you wont lose them and you will remember which one goes where.

2) Be Careful. You don't want to hurt yourself or your car. Remember that the battery should always being unplugged when unplugging wires and that the fuel lines still have fuel in them.

3) If you feel I have left out something important (I probably have) let me know so that I can add it in.

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June 5, 2008

This is more of a picture tutorial than actually detailing "How to" because the instructions that came with the kit were easy to understand. It is a straight forward kit that took a little time to get done but it is definately worth it. I really like how it looks and rides now. All of the pictures are of the right side of the car but it is for both and I did similar jobs on both sides at the same time. (I put jacked it up, then took boths wheels off, then put both bags in, ect...)

Airlift 1000 kit I got from Summit Racing

The parts laid out on a blanket beside the car (Plus a few other things that I got including: wire looms, zip strips, and cookout)

The car jacked up and on a stand

The empty coil spring

Now with inflatable air bag

Running the air filler tube inside a wire loom towards the back

The connector piece joining both bag tubes and the filler tube

I had to drill a 1/4" hole to let the filler tube into the trunk to put it where I wanted it

Going into the trunk from underneath the car

Inflated with 32psi. I checked today and they are both still inflated at 32psi. Thats what I'm talking about!

The fill valve position in place. It isn't really noticeable and it is very clean looking. I like it : )

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Page 1 - Home
Page 2 - Engine
Page 3 - Exterior
Page 4 - Interior
Page 5 - Mods
Page 6 - Sound System
Page 7 - How To Guides (you are here)
Page 8 - Wheels and Tires
Page 9 - Exhaust
Page 10 - Drag Racing