As of right now, I have a 1.8L 8v which pulls pretty good, but as soon as I hit 3rd gear I'm toast! Therefore, I'm currently building up a 2L 8v engine with an ABA bottom end and an '83 GTI 1.8L 8v solid lifter "big valve" head. Its being mildly p&p, decked .040", lightened flwheel(3lbs off), 274 degree cam w/ .436" lift, 2L PP/clutch, 3-angle valve grind, new guides, seals, 2L 16v headgasket, TT valve springs, TT adjustable cam gear, 1.8L 8v Dizzy adapter Kit, Mildy ported 2L 8v exhaust manifold, 2-1 downpipe. This thing should hit 150hp. Heres some pics for starters...Shot of the ABA block Mmmm 2L pistons Pic of underneath the ABA bottom end, i will be putting on a windage plate to stop parastatic Hp loss Flywheel will be lightened 3lbs OOOh, look at the mild port job Gotta love that oil cooler, I didnt have one on my 1.8L engine My solid lifters, 33mm exhaust valves, and my 40mm intake valves. I'm waiting for my new TT valve springs to come in. Here's some new pics of the newly painted, partially assembled engine. Its painted with high temperature ceramic aluminum and red paint ...And extreme black high temp. paint for the exhaust manifold Side shot of the engine...as you can see, ive still gotta put the cam, cam gear, crank pulley, alt., and the belts on I had to source out a 1.6L 8v camshaft off an early cabrio, took me a couple weeks to find it. I needed to use this certain vw camshaft to re-grind it into a 278* with .436" lift. It should really pick up at around 3600rpm and find hp up to 7000rpm. It will be a great addition for my solid lifter head. The install of the solid lifters It's a great idea to use permatex assembly lube when your building an engine; it lubricates and minimizes wear on first start up, because thats when the most wear will occur. Yay, the cam goes in! Just gotta get the right shims in there Installed the cam seal and the TT adjustable cam gear; good for /- 10 degrees, another good thing to have to tune your vehicle. Just put on a 90amp alternator from a '99 mk3. I needed another because my 1.8L 8v alt had a v-belt pulley, and the mounting is different Put on the LUK 2L 8v pressure plate, 1.8L 8v 210mm Sachs clutch disk, and LUK 2L 8v lightened flywheel. Beware of this setup...the LUK flywheel has to be bolted onto a LUK pressure plate clutch disk...you cannot mix and match LUK with Sachs. Too bad i figured this such advice out after i had done the unthinkable...i had to buy a new 16v pressure plate and get my old 8v flywheel re-lightened after i finally got the engine tuned, but the engine would not trasmit power to the wheels via the clutch combo. I had to use the 1.8L 8v clutch disk because i'm using the same 8v tranny, which has a smaller 210mm input shaft compared to the 2L 8v or 2L 16v trannies. Just another shot of the exhaust manifold progress...i didnt take a pic, but i mildy ported/polished it. it looked way better than before, allowing more airflow without sacrificing alot of restriction which a naturally aspirated engine more/less "needs" depending on the situation Shot of the 2L 8v pressure plate install New Sachs clutch disk Lining up the clutch disk is a necessity to save time when you eventually bolt on the tranny so the input shaft lines up no problem. Newly lightened 2L 8v LUK flywheel...lightened 3 lbs, which will help the engine get up the through the rpm's alot faster. When installing the flywheel, make sure the dowel pin lines up with the hole on the pressure plate. Also keep the clutch tool in place when bolting down the flywheel as so the disk does not move, and is kept centered. ....Another good shot of the build Got the last of the correct solid lifter shims in, doubled checked the clearance specs, and installed the cam...again. Also, you can see the CIS injector inserts that i put in the head. With these and a combonation of CIS o-rings and digi injectors, i managed to put together a digifant II fuel system that fits perfectly and works! Figured out some coolant hose problems. This engine being equipped with an oil cooler, my stock hoses wouldnt work with my cooling system setup, and the mk3 hoses wouldnt work either because the crossflows have the flange on the side, and my rabbit head has one of the front. So, to "fix" that problem, i needed a hose that went from the flange and the oil cooler to the top inlet to the water pump. Yes, as some might notice, that is a hose from a vw diesel engine, and the only way to hook that hose onto the flange is to also change the flange to accomodate...and yes, another vw diesel product, with one sensor hole coming out the side and the hose connection underneath, unlike all mk2 gas engines...makes this engine more and more different! OK, Here's the pics of taking the old engine out, swapping over some parts, porting the intake and TB, and putting the new engine in.