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GAS FILLER NECK REROUTE
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To reroute the filler neck we had to get the tank out of the car. We wanted to change out the fuel pump anyway, so we combined the effort!

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Getting the exhaust out of the way!
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First off, we had to go to the exhaust shop and have the exhaust sectioned and a joint put in so we could remove it to get to the tank out.

When I had my new 3in mndrel bent exhaust made I accounted for the fact that the tank might have to come out and had it built in removable jointed sections.

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Removing the suspension
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To remove the gas tank the car has to be in the air enough to drop the rear suspension out of the way. It was a bit tricky, but we jacked the car up and positioned jack stands under the frame in the rear. The rear end was then allowed to come down naturally.

The Panhard rod

& upper panhard had to come out.

Then the gas tank shield.

This got the rear suspension clear of the gas tank, so it could be removed. The gas tank straps were then released.

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Removing the gas tank!
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Next it was time to remove the tank...This was not easy. The filler neck was giving us problems coming out of the hole through the frame.

It was a pain to get the filler neck to come out. A bunch of twisting and turning!

Finally, it surrendered and the gas tank was out.

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Rerouting the filler neck
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Once it was out we had to decide how to reroute the filler neck. What we did is cut off the original filler neck, leaving a good straight section coming out so we would have something to attach the new filler neck to.

We found the filler neck has a small vent tube inside. It doesn't go all the way to the tank anyway, so we cut it with at least 8-10 inches of tube left.

What we did next is cut the hole through the wheel well with a hole saw, positioning it so that the gas tank can still be filled easily.

Here is the same hole dressed to cover the bare metal to help inhibit and rust from forming.

We then got a piece of flexible exhaust tubing (though mandrel bent exhaust tubing would be better, and we'll replace it with such) to go between the tank and the filler neck. The flex tubing was brazed to the filler neck by a local muffler shop.

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NOTE
One thing to be very careful of though...when welding or brazing the tube on, wrap the filler end with a wet rag to keep the heat down around the flapper valve. It doesn't take much to alter the temper of the spring loaded valve and make it not close properly. The car occasionally gets a little fuel smell inside, and I think this is why. Oddly I only notice it when I first fill up or have a full tank. Usually its most noticeable if the windows are down.
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On the tank end, we connected it with rubber fuel hose from NAPA (which BTW will last indefinitely), clamped securely (this is how all older cars were done from the factory).

The filler neck will be replaced when I redo the system with a mandrel bent tube. This time when it gets welded, it will be sprayed down heavily with a heat barrier gel to prevent the flapper issue.

Overall, this is a pretty easy mod, and it makes it MUCH easier to R&R your gas tank for fuel pump replacement, since the filler neck is what makes the job so time consuming.

Now I had to remove GM's cardboard 'glove box' that was in there. Made more room for the changer and NOS though!

Now to fuel up, I simply access it thru the cargo storage box located on the driver's side cargo paneling. This feature keeps it locked up and safe! At car shows I open the door to show it, but I have a locking gas cap to keep any tampering from occuring!

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A FINAL NOTE
When I'm filling up at a gas station, there are a few things I have to do. Before turning on the gas, I take the line I'm going to use and I turn the nozzle so the residual fuel runs out. The attendants look at me like I'm nuts, but I don't want all that running in my trunk as I'm trying to get the nozzle in the filler. On the same note, once you are done fueling the car at the gas station, I have found its best to turn the gas nozzle upside down as you are pulling it out of the car, to prevent any residual fuel from leaking/spilling out.

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Well we could not just put it all back together dirty... So while all the components were out they were all cleaned and painted.

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Painting the gas tank
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The gas tank actually received a coat of soundproofing to help limit the in cabin noises.

For the shows, it also recieved a coat of matching red paint. Makes the underside look much more profesionally done for the judges and its easier to clean!

Now here are some pics of it as it was removed to have the fuel pump swapped for a larger capacity one...

You can see how grime and a leaky speedometer cable seal have really done the paint in. So it was time for a fresh paint job!
Here it is in red primer!

Red base coat...

Cleared and installed in the car!

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HOME PAGE

Follow this link to additional information on the car not found on this site!
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DIRECTORY FOR RAIF'S EXTERIOR SITE
01 Site Overview
02 Red Window Tint
03 Red Window Vinyl
04 Stance
05 Bumper Insert Conversion
06 Ground Effects
07 Lower GFX Spoiler
08 SunCoast Hood
09 Shaving
10 Shaving Electronics
11 Antenna Relocation & Gas Tank Filler Neck Reroute <<<
12 Headlight Conversion
13 Clear Front Turn Signals
14 Exterior Underbody Neon
15 Strobes
16 Spoiler
17 4h Gen Mirror Conversion
18 Tailights
19 Primer
20 Paint
21 Emblems
22 Smoothed TA Fender Vents
23 Clear Rear Side Markers
24 Paint: Jam Touch Up

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