************************************************************************************************************************
POLISHING ALUMINUM
************************************************************************************************************************
****************************************
How to Polish
****************************************
Ok I do not recommend doing this unless you are committed to taking it to the end. Polishing anything that came stock on a car is a long painful process.
There are many schools of thought on polishing. Some like to go from course grit paper like 240 to very fine grit like 2000. then hit the object with a buffing compound. Others prefer to only go to 400 or 500 and then let compounds do the rest.
Again some people only going to 400 grit and then finishing the piece off with compounds. This method is supposed to help keep you from removing so much material that the piece becomes dull. I think this is probably the best method...
We used the course to fine sanding method followed by compounds with my pieces. Here I will detail the method we used on my pieces.
****************************************
Smoothing the metal
****************************************
This is required on most factory Aluminum parts. Most are cast be they Aluminum or steel. Cast pieces have a rough gravelly texture and are ridiculous to try to hand sand.
So for a little power assistance in this department, we started with sanding disks, if necessary (steel).
Then we moved to scotchlock sanding disks (starting point on cast aluminum) Brown is the most course, then red, then grey...
This usually is what is done to get the surface smooth. It gets you to a point where you can sand it. There will be sanding lines, yes, but they are not as difficult to remove as the casting bumps.
****************************************
Sanding the parts slick
****************************************
Now if the piece is not cast, you will start here, since the metal is already smooth.
You start normally with the least course grit that will take out the sanding lines or factory scuffed surface. The idea being that the more aggressive (more course) the more material you will remove. The idea is not to remove material. Its just to remove what it only necessary to get the finish slick.
Each paper will leave sanding lines. The idea is that as you move to less course paper it will leave finer ad finer scratches. Till finally you are left with scratches that buffing compounds will remove.
On my cast pieces we had a battle to remove the sanding lines the scotchlock left. So we used 240, 400, 800, 1200, and finally 2000. We got wet sanding paper to keep the materials from building up in the paper. The idea being that the water helps keep the sanded material from getting trapped in the paper. This allows the paper to go farther and keep the debris from making scratches.
You sand till your fingerprints are gone, and then you sand some more, gradually moving to finer and finer paper. Usually around the time you are about to give up and throw in the towel, you have something that begins to shine.
Then you attack it with the buffing wheel with a compound and low & behold it does shine.
Then the sweat, pain, and blood was all worth it.
And that�s just Aluminum...
************************************************************************************************************************
HOME PAGE
Follow this link to additional information on the car not found on this site!
************************************************************************************************************************
DIRECTORY FOR RAIF'S ENGINE DETAILING SITE
01 Site Overview <<<
02 Wire Looms: Version I (Pre 2006) & Version II (Post 2006)
03 Silicone Hoses: Version I (Pre 2006) & Version II (Post 2006)
04 Coolflex
05 Aftermarket Aluminum Pieces
06 Polishing Aluminum <<<
07 Polished Stock Aluminum Pieces
08 Polished Accent Pieces
09 Fiero Valve Covers
10 Polishing Steel & Ceramic Coating It
11 Aftermarket Chrome Pieces
12 Professionally Chromed Stock Pieces
13 Miscellaneous Touches
14 Final Pics of the Engine W/ Stock 2.8 Plenum & runners
15 Truleo Custom Intake
16 2006: Engine Compartment Makeover: Overview
17 2006: Engine Compartment Makeover: Battery Relocation: Installing the Battery Box
18 2006: Engine Compartment Makeover: Battery Relocation: Running Wiring Under Chassis
19 2006: Engine Compartment Makeover: Hiding the wiring: MSD Box Mounting
20 2006: Engine Compartment Makeover: Hiding the wiring: Part I
21 2006: Engine Compartment Makeover: Hiding the wiring: Part II
22 2006: Engine Compartment Makeover: Painting: Engine & Tranny: Stripping & Prepping
23 2006: Engine Compartment Makeover: Painting: Engine & Trannny: Painting Candy Apple Red
24 2006: Engine Compartment Makeover: Painting: Accessories: Candy Apple Red: Prep, Prime, & Base
25 2006: Engine Compartment Makeover: Painting: Accessories: Candy Apple Red: Clear Coat
26 2006: Engine Compartment Makeover: Painting: Accessories: Black
27 2006: Engine Compartment Makeover: Painting: Engine Bay: Welding, Stripping, & Filling
28 2006: Engine Compartment Makeover: Painting: Engine Bay: Prepping & Priming
29 2006: Engine Compartment Makeover: Painting: Engine Bay: Clear Coat
30 2006: Engine Compartment Makeover: Engine Installation
31 2006: Engine Compartment Makeover: Engine Installation: Accessories
************************************************************************************************************************
