Posted by: Wern314

09/18/2004 10:31PM

The sheet metal should be about as thick as the body metal on your car now, it's not very thick and I forget the exact measurement. And make sure to weld it on the backside of the gap, you'll have to take of the plastic from the inside of the door and have someone hold it up so you can tack weld it up. You won't have to weld it all the way around, just a few tacks about an inch apart or so. Then grind the tack welds so they are flush with the rest of the door. The progress pictures on my site may help a little. As far as getting the fiberglass to wipe the door with, I got mine a Napa Auto Parts. I don't know if you have one in Cali but just find a car supply store like Napa. Just check out the phonebook and call around. you also have to get the activator or hardener to mix with the fiberglass so it hardens, just follow the direction on the amount because if you mix to much in it will get hard to fast. Fiberglass is the key to all shaveing because it can flex therefore it won't crack and split. Alot of people make that mistake. Once you have wiped the gap let it dry and sand it down to match the curve. We used a inline sander, your could do it by hand it will just take alot longer. Lastly use regular bondo and once again sand it to match the doors curve. You will have to rub your hand to make sure it's flush and that you don't have any dips or buldges. Sometimes you can see them but you will be able to feel them. Again if you have anymore questions feel free to ask, good luck and take progress pictures, I like to see them when your done. Just let me know and keep me posted.

Posted by: Wern314

09/16/2004 08:35AM

Please do not make the mistake of just bondoing the gap. You will regret it. Without the support of sheet metal it will crack and eventually fall apart. Alot of people make this mistake. The way we did it and the way I would recommend you to do it is to first weld a piece of sheet metal behind the gap. then grind the welds smooth to match the bodies curve. After that wipe fiberglass over the gap and sand it down to match the bodies curve. Lastly use bondo to fill in the gap and sand it smooth to match the doors curve. Sound easy but it is alot of work. Without the support of sheet metal and just bondoing the gap, it will crack and if you bumb into it too hard you will go right through it. Bondo is not that strong. Alot of people make this mistake. Fiberglass flexes therefore it won't crack. Do you have access to a welder on know someone who can weld for you? Are you good with bondo? Let me know and I'm more than glad to help you. Hit me back with anymore questions that you have.

Posted by: onikos

09/15/2004 05:52PM

I saw that when you shaved the handels you first cut out the handle and sodered a piece of metal flush to fill the gap, then covered with fiberglass- I have seen versions when people just bondo the gap and sand it flush. I figure that the metal is the perferred method but it takes some skill, which i dont think i have. Which would you recomend for a novice like me? I'm willing to take the chance on cutting out the locks. I also want to convert my doors from manuel to power- including windows.... im looking at the local pick and pull.

Posted by: Wern314

09/10/2004 05:46PM

What kind of questions do you have about the shaved door handles and do you have any questions about anything else? I'd be more than happy to help you with any info or advice. Just send me some specific questions and I will hit you back. Thanks again for checking out my ride. And just let me know how I can help. Later Russ

Posted by: Wern314

09/09/2004 04:23PM

Your car is looking REAL NICE!!!, very clean and original and thats what I like. I'm definitely feeling your ride. Come check out my 200sx sometime, I just shaved the door handles and installed a hood scoop. It's a work in progress but it's coming along nicely. Come check it out and let me know what you think.