INTERNAL ENGINE & VALVETRAIN

Cam Install 12/30/2004-01/04/2005

Just finished the install today and fired the bitch up. My first cam install and I encountered almost ever snag possible but as soon as the first 5 seconds were over where I had to watch the oil pressure like a hawk, I was happy.

Here my F13 Here!!!!

FM13 cam card shown below.

Lessons Learned:

-Use ls1howto.com guild for 95% of the install. It was by far the best tool. Major respect for JMX and his site.
-Get a 10mm gear wench. I�ve had one for a long time but it is a must.
-Drop the AC condenser. The ls1howto tells you not to worry about it but it is a must for cam removal/install and rod tool install possible. I could not get the cam out without removing it
-Make the lifter tools. I used a 5/16 rod for the drivers and � rod for the passenger side. I think two 5/16 would work (didn�t try it) if a flat spot was ground down on the drivers side but it wouldn�t fit in it�s original form

Pickup tube bolt removal-

No need to take off the whole pan just have to drop it a bit to get a 10mm gear wench in there. You have your TEN 10m bolts that are perpendicular to the ground The one behind the oil filter requires the little plastic tranny shield to be removed, thus another little bolt. Take this out and pop the shield out. There are TWO more 10mm towards the back, and TWO 15mm that are parallel to the ground in the bell housing. My count total is 15. Just loosen all of 14 bolts but leave them in. Leave a pan nearby to catch any oil that will seep out near the filter area.

I stuffed one old T-shirts on the left side and another on the around the back of the pickup tube. Then I used aluminum foil to make a tray right under the bolt hole so it would be easy to grab if dropped. The T-shirts ran behind it and served as a good backing/buffer so I could mold the foil into a cup. Otherwise I couldn't get it to form correctly. Keep the apparatus in place to use on the bolt re-installation.

Rollmaster cam gear

I originally purchased a posi lock 3 jaw 104 puller model from sears but it didnt work for the ASP so I was already to return, however, it worked great on the crank gear. Popped off no problem. To reinstall the rollmaster cam gear I used the stock and a rubber mallet to "bang" it on. Below is the new crank gear.

The dot closest to the camera get alighned to the keyway. This is the standard position. The dot on the sproket is used to dial the cam in to the dot on the cam gear.

Oil pump reinstallation

I was getting very frustrated because I couldn't get the pump to align to the crank gear (all the while putting pressure on the pickup tube) and could not get it the innards to line up. So before I threw it across the room I came up with the idea to use the stock crank gear to set up the keys inside the pump (only works if installing or have installed an aftermarket and have the stocker handy). I kept it there and oriented the keys to match the new crank gear setting/position. At this point the pump is tilted a bit. I then pushed the the pickup tube low enough to clear the casting and started sliding the oil pump from the old crabnk gear onto the new gear ilustrated below.

Worked pretty well. Another way is to disassemble the oil pump to remove the gears but I did not want to go this route.

Pickup tube bolt reinstallation

I wrapped solder around the bolt, put in the gear wench and then wrapped the solder around the gear wench.

I actually had to take the wench out of the equation later on cause I couldn't get the bolt into the pickup hole (installed a double roller and clearance was tighter than stock) and then put the gear wrench on it. Still didn't work because the wrench wouldn't ratchet since there wasn't enough resistance from the threads yet so I used two fingers. While doing this I had to get creative with the pry bars to get the pickup tube flange up to the pump. It seemed to work after time and allot of cursing.

Springs-

Get a good spring tool. I used a �Larry� tool sold by Larry on the LS1tech board and it worked great. I was really scared that they would take long but I averaged 12 minutes per spring plus a little more for the TDC alignment. Cylinders 7 & 8 took the longest, 5 & 6 took a little less and I timed myself on the rest which I burned through at 6 minutes per spring.

Below left Home made valvetrain organizer, spark plug box, Brakleen, and garage entertainment.

Above right Additional tools required for spring changing.
-3/8" Ratchet, extention and 13mm socket for old/new spring removal/installation
-Pen magnet for retainers/keepers(not shown).
-Large Angle pliers for seat removal
-Hammer, 1/4" extention and 10mm socket for valve seal installation.
-Plastic ziplock bag for each pair of springs.

Since I dialed in the cam, I had TDC on cylinder 1 so I changed both valve springs there. Since cylinder 6 is also at TDC simultaneously, I changed them as well. While a cylinder is at TDC the valve will only drop 1/4" which make this very easy and worry free.

Below left New PRC double springs installed on Cylinder 1.

Above right Spring tool installed on cylinder 6 and ready to be tightened down to pull out stock springs.

Rotating the crank gear 90 degrees will put the next two cylinders (5 and 8) at TDC making this a very elegant method. I positioned my ratchet with my 24mm socket at 12 o'clock and rotated till 3 o'clock. Note, the cam gear moves half the distance and is now at the 7:30 position .

Halfway done.

Below left Springs installed on Cylinder 1 & 5.

Above right Springs installed on Cylinder 6 & 8.

I continued the TDC method and everything worked out fast, and easy. Another 90 degree spin on the crank put up cylinders 7 & 4 with the cam gear "dot" at 9 o'clock. And a final turn put the cam gear at 1030 which brought 2 & 3 up to TDC. I was very pleased with the outcome of the spring change compared to the happenings of the rest of the project

Reassembly:

Below right Dad's 4 foot 600 lb-ft torque wrench. Used to torque Old Crank bolt to 250 lb-ft.

Above left Upside down jack handle....Breaker bar. Used to stretch new bolt extra 120 degrees

New coil pack brackets done at install time.

Below left Valve covers cleaned with Brakeleen, wire brushed and cleaned again by me.

Above right Valve covers polished with buffing wheel by brother Joe with help from my GF Maureen.

Installed Valve covers

First Impressions:

I can't get over how well it drives on the stock tune. I honestly thought would be lopey-er and am kind of disappointed it isn't loader/choppier. It hunts for idle frequently but I help it along by keeping my pinky toe on the gas at times. It eventually finds it at 700RPM. I am using stock rear gears with this and don't have any trouble. When I do have stable idle I can leave at 900RPM without a hiccup. It does lug/shake/hiccups if I go below 1300 RPM in the higher gears at low speed but that is expected. I experience no ill effects will cruising at moderate speeds.

Dyno numbers (next page)....track times coming soon...

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Page 3: Internal Engine & Valvetrain
Page 4: PCM Dyno Tuning & Related
Page 5: Diagnostic Tools, Electrical & Wiring
Page 6: Interior, Exterior, & Engine Bay Aestetics