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STEREO WIRING
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Now before the new black carpet was installed, I ran all my stereo wires for the subs and amps.... Though when I relocated my battery in the back the power lines shortened! The shorter the lines the better. The further you have to travel the larger gauge wire you want to use to deliver maximun power! So I have stepped up my amps, via the watts I'm pushing, but because I'm going a shorter distance I don't have to use any larger wire diameter!
Also the ground also works like this. You want the same size ground as the power wire and you want it to be as short as possible. The largest gauge should be mounted closest to the frame with the smallest at the further most position out! This will help ensure you get the maximun power out of your system & the least distortion and or whining thru the speakers!
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Power
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Power comes out from the Optima Red top battery,
which is now
mounted in the back in my spare tire well!
It travels down a 4 gauge power wire with built in fuse. I placed it w/in 12 inch of the battery, as I was taught.
Now I actually have a top mounted setup currently that I need to take a pic of, but you get the idea!
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Distribution
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From the 4 gauge wire, the power makes its way via a distribution block.
The block allows for a 4 gauge input, splitting it down into two 8 gauge outputs.
From the distribution block, my 2-8 gauge wires ran directly to my 2 amps.
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Amps
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One 8 gauge power wire ran to my US Acoustic 50X4 watt amp.
The other 8 gauge wire is run to my Lanzar amp for the subs.
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Turn on lead
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On the driver's side Transmission tunnel, I ran the turn on lead for the stereo components.
Once you get multiple components, its a good idea to run a relay for your turn on lead. Most stereos can't handle the power load to turn on multiple components & can overload the turn on circuit. If the circuit overloads it can burn it out completely.
The turn on lead is only used momentarily to turn on the component and then switches off one the components are turned on. So I simply tapped into the amps power lead.
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Relay
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The relay wiring is pretty basic...
Here is how!
Relay's wiring...
Standard relays have 4 prongs and are numbered as follows:
87: output to item
86: input (signal wire...turn on lead)
85: ground
30: power from battery
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Signal wires (RCAs)
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The signal wires (RCAs) I ran down the side of the transmission tunnel to the amps.
The wires just to the right of the RCAs are my power window switches.
Any contact made b/w the signal & power wires were brief. Contact was only made at a 90 Degree angle. This reduces the chances of any signal transference that would cause distortion or whining thru the speakers.
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Speaker Wires
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From the amps, the speaker wires made their trip to the speakers via the passenger side floor board & rocker.
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**********NOTE**********
Being set up like this I have no distortion or whining from signal transferance thru my wires. Some people will actually add blockers to their system to eliminate this problem. That works, but why would you even need it if you set it up the right way from the begining!
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HOME PAGE
Follow this link to additional information on the car not found on this site!
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DIRECTORY FOR RAIF'S STEREO SITE
01 Site Intro
02 Soundproofing Info
03 Soundproofing Doors and Dash
04 Soundproofing Interior
05 Thermoshield
06 Soundproofing Interior Paneling
07 Soundproofing Undercarriage
08 Stereo Wiring <<<
09 Head Unit & Speakers
10 Building The Sub Box: Making The Pattern
11 Building The Sub Box: MDF
12 Building The Sub Box: Sealing
13 Building The Sub Box: Covering
14 Amplifier Specs & Hook Up
15 Amplifier Installation
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