PAGE 4:Maxspeed Lowering springs install and crazy story

HERE IS MAX B4 CLEAR OUTS AND DROP CHECK DA UGLY WHEEL GAP:

Which brings me to my next DIY mod; Maxspeed Lowering Springs(actually when I got them they were called Goldline Springs)

*Put car on jack stands or lift whichever as long as supported w. enough clearance to atleast get underneath wheels. Remove
all 4 tires and set aside*

This process is relatively simple in theory, heres a simple Step by Step w/ some good tips:

1a.Use impact wrench to break 2-Upfront bolts holding strut to rotor and axle
1b. Use same impact wrench to break 1 -Rear bolt that attaches the strut to a shock
2. Unclip your brake lines from the Front struts using a flat head screw driver to push the metal piece off twist line slightly and pull up and out*Should be 1 like that and 2 other small lines just pull away from strut*
3.Unscrew 6-(Upfront,3 on each side Under the Hood) 4-(Rear,2 on each side In the far L and R ends behind your trunk material under those two innocent black metal plates) Mounting Bolts.*Careful get a 2nd person to be ready to catch the strut as you unscrew the last nut from uptop as your strut should be ready to fall*
4.Make sure your brake lines are clearly out of the way and lower your struts out of the car.For rear struts once removed your axle will hang so i suggest putting something ie;jackstand crate, to support your rear frame from hanging too low.
*Take notice as to what the top stud pattern looks like coming down and out from the hood, marking the far stud might be helpful so when its time to mount you'll know the exact position you studs need to be in order to line-up correctly upon installation*

(If u dont have a Strut/Spring compressor take all your struts and springs to your local AutoZone and they should have 1 to rent/use, I hear theres 1 w. clips that u have to rachet down but I luckily had the big machine that compressed the top and bottom of the assembly down w. a turn of wheel made it quite expedient after we got the hang of it on the 1st strut. Sorry if you've got the other tool I cant imagine the work you've got to put in, but this install will be explained for this 1)
(Coming soon heres what I used)

5.Compress the old springs until youve taken the tension off the top mounting bolt then using a impact wrench or power tools unscrew the top nut and the bottom half of the strut should seperate from the top section and the spring. Be ready to catch the bottom half bc it can fall but most likely wont.
6. Now Decompress the old spring and seperate from top half and assoc pieces which will now go on top of your new springs. Depending on your new springs they might be small enough to assemble w/o the compressor and a good push down to get that cetner nut started atop the strut. (My fronts had to be compressed to get the top not on but my rears went in w. like a glove w/o the compressor)
6b.Once youve got your new spring in-line on the strut just as the old spring was, Compress the new spring/strut assembly until you can tighten down that center nut on top of the strut. The studs will start to rotate when fully tightned and your spring should be compressed in place just as your stock springs looked.

7.Repeat for all struts

8. Install is pretty much reverse actions self explanatory. The 1st strut might not align right away but they will rotate uptop and will only fit back into their holes and be aligned at the bottom 1 way (but if you followed my advice and rememebered what the stud pattern uptop looked like when you were removing the strut from the car, the install should be cake).
9. Once correctly inserted back in the car tighten all nuts that go on top of the studs of each strut ;6 Upfront and 3 Rear. Then align struts to be bolted back to axles inside the wheel-wells and tighten 4 upfront 2 rear to a good torque.
10. Lastly reclip all brake lines and mount all 4 tires and watch as your car drops down to its new height

Here she is:

OLD SPRINGS BE GONE!!

Now you probably read thru that and thought WTF 10 simple steps, seems easy enough if you take your time and all the mounting bolts are easy to get to but here's my story on how this job went for me and what you as a DIY should expect;

This mod was done by me and a homie at the base auto hobby shop in less than 3 hrs w. no real experience on the spring compressor and the half guidance of the chubby dude working that night.Sike he was actually pretty kewl bc we went over ab 45 mins past closing time trying to get these struts/springs in and out.

Heres my story:
I got the springs in the mail earlier that week and planned to do it Saturday all slow step by step. It was Friday around 5pm when my friend came thru and i was using the heat gun just to strip the trunk emblems and yall know how it is to have a new toy in a box for your car it just has to be installed so you can show it off. So after debating back and forth whether we could do it in time we started around 5pm to hail mary and R2 the springs b4 the place closed for clean up at 7:20pm. We had all the tools: which mostly includes air tools for all the tire lugs and strut mounting nuts and the top spring compressor nut, a impact wrench to break the bolts on each strut, and a lil muscle for a few diff parts of this mod. Who ever fucking put those Dayum plates in the trunk over the rear strut mounting bolts, w. such a small opening in the front made this part alot more difficult than this job really had to be. Then they have the nerve to put this smal lil opening in the front thinking any tool could get in there to remove those nuts from any position was just a tease. Maybe it was just me but that engineer Needs to be shot!!
It was almost impossible to get back there w. any kind of tool except a 1 off wrench but i wasnt goign to sit there all day and go inch by inch old school styley on the back nuts. Im sure other people found some other way to get to those nuts to take the rear strut out but as time was quickly winding down to clean-up time in the shop I was starting to lose my patience. Well I start w. the more logical method and begin to take all the bolts holding the black metal plates obscuring my job. Thinking once I removed the 4 bolts this would give us all the access we needed. Well i got bolts out and that dayum plate still would not fucking come off!! Now keep in mind its ab 30 mins till "Clean Up Time" and we still need to take out the back two struts compress the old springs and install the new springs and put them back into their spots then put all the tires back on.
Now at this time I lost all patience, after slicing my finger on some thin metal in the trunk and knowing no1 would ever see these plates I used some gym grown muscle and bent the shit out of them. It was crunch time and I had to do what I had to do

As you can see I bent the shit out of those plates to slip a drill in there to remove these two nuts on L and R sides to make the rear struts drop.

This Mod was soo worth the Bloody cuts/agony and pressure of the auto hobby shop staff for the final product of this mod.

THE BACK DROPPED IMMEDIATELY AND GAVE ME A NICE TUCK

CAN ANY1 GUESS HOW MUCH OF A DROP THIS WAS??(RIGHT ANSWER GETS A SPECIAL PRIZE)

My suspension is alot stiffer plus the drop was immediately noticeable, more in the rear than the front but I hear that takes a lil more time to settle.

AIRBAGS(1 day)TO REALLY DROP IT TO THA FLO' BUT THIS DROP WILL DEF. DO FOR NOW

Page 1:Overview Bone stock
Page 2:Side Marker/Turn Signal Rewire
Page 3:Fog light/Parking Lights Rewire
Page 4:Maxspeed(Goldline)Springs install(My spin on this job)
Page 5:Trunk Emblems stripped Clear-Outs
Page 6:Grille-Tech Diamond Silver 2002 Upper(custom made to fit)and Lower Install
Page 7: Car Show and Various Pix
Page 8: Sunvisor Tvs PS2 JL System install
Page 9: Projector Headlights install