Just a quick shot of the car after I ran it through the Auto Butler at work. Not only does it look really clean, but light dirt just hoses right off. Also swapped out the XTD clutch for an Exedy OEM. 100 times better.
No dyno results yet. I had planned to go to Ride Revolution, but they're closing down and already sold their dyno. I'll try and find somewhere else as soon as I can.
I also replaced my Sony 6x9 with an Alpine. The bass sounds world better.
Just got my throttle body and intake manifold back from maxbore.com. The throttle body was cleaned and bored to 64mm, and the manifold opening was ported to match. Didn't add much power, but increased throttle response.
Installed a pair of DarkStarRacing adjustable cam gears, removed my middle timing cover and cut my valve cover, all in preparation for the big day. Just gotta grab one more thing and I'll be ready for the dyno by late August.
Got tired of the peeling black paint on my valve cover, so I pulled it off, stripped it, and painted it anodized blue. I couldn't get all the old paint off, so it's not perfect.
I also replaced my shift boot with a factory Civic boot, and treated my Ractive
knob to some black leather to match.
Finally made my own custom ruby red tails. Here's the DIY.
Finally got my new ECU. It's been custom chipped by MRX. Changed the a/f and set the IAB's to open at 4500. Took care of my low end hesitation and greatly improved top end power.
Went down to the "local" 1/8 mile tonight. On my first run I was really nervous and hit it a little too hard and got nothing but wheel hop. Finished with a 10.5. Didn't put enough time between my first and second runs and roasted my clutch. Let it sit for about half an hour and it held up fine. Did a bunch of runs throughout the night. One of my latter runs was against a riced Contour, and I destroyed it with a 10.2 vs his 10.8. My 2nd to last run I ran 10.1. I was sitting there and checked the clock, and figured I'd make one last try. Final run, got a good burn out and followed the gears just a little longer then normal (6400 vs 6100 shift) and managed a 10 flat. Overall, I was the fastest NA import of the night. I really need to work on my reaction time. Best was only .467, which, oddly enough, was the run I roasted my clutch. Next to that was a .599. My 10 flat run was a .877. Anyway, I'm in desperate need of a dyno tune. I'm running super lean
Finished installing my sub and amp today. The sub is a Sony XS-V6940H and the amp is a Jensen PS260. I managed to get my hands on the factory 6x9 pieces, so I barely lose any trunk space, and I'm adding less then 10lbs of weight.
New Sport Edition F2's (15x6.5), Crower stage 1 cams, and Carsound cat. Expect dyno graphs and track times soon.
A lot has happened in the past few months. So far, I've added Tein H Tech springs, OBX front strut tower bar, and a 2.5" PaceSetter exhaust. I'll post more new pictures later.
Painted my brake calipers red today. They look ok in the picture, but they really pop in real life.
Installed my new OBX stainless steel header today. Took about 10lbs off the front end and has much better flow.
Well, the clutch is finally broken in. So far I really like it. I get much better launches and I can really feel the added power. The pedal isn't too stiff, and engagement is very smooth. I'd definitely recommend this combo to anyone looking for a new clutch.
Just got my car back from the shop. I destroyed one of the spring retainers on my clutch disc, so I had a new XTD Stage 1 clutch and 12lb flywheel put on. Now comes the 500 mile break in.
I finally took care of the biggest leak on my engine; my distributor. I went through, made marks of all the positions of everything, and took it off. My mom made me a good cleaning solution to help take off the oil on the engine and surrounding hoses. When I was cleaning the distributor, I noticed there wasn't a seal on it at all. I check the hole in the head where it goes, and there wasn't anything stuck in there. I'm guessing the previous owner changed the distributor and didn't put the O-ring on. I oiled up the new O-ring, slipped it on, then put the distributor back on. First time the position was a little off, so it ran a little funny. I loosened it up, tapped it down just a little bit (1mm?), and now it runs perfect. No leak either. Best part is I saved $75 by doing it myself. Now I just need to do my CV boots and the clutch master cylinder, and all the leaks will be done. Then I can move on to more important things.
My new carbon fiber tails came in today, as did my super white high beams. I also put in a new Pioneer DEH2700 two weeks ago.
I took the car in last week to get the transmission fluid changed, and we went over everything that needs to be changed. I need a new distributer seal ($10), CV boots ($40), cam seals ($20), and a new clutch master cylinder ($100). I can do the distributer and CV boots myself, but the cam seals and clutch master cylinder need to be done at the shop (4 hours labor @$60 an hour).
Finally cleaned the car and took some exterior pictures. The clear coat is peeling on the roof and on the trunk (doesn't look too bad in the pictures).
I also just put on a short ram intake. I'm gonna redo the combo vacuum/coolant line sometime so I don't have a floating metal tube. I hope to get my new valve cover gasket on and clean the engine.
This page is dedicated to my 1992 Honda Prelude SI. Right now, all I have is two interior pics (waiting for some good weather to wash the outside). Anyway, I've got a Pioneer DEH-205 CD player (11 years old) with a bad screen. I'm saving up for something newer, but this works well enough for now. For speakers I have two cheap Pioneer (front) and two cheap Dual (rear) speakers and the stock dash tweeters. I also just put in a Ractive shift boot and knob and some super white xenon low beams and LED corners (or at least the corners were supposed to be white. They're really more blue).