Here are some photos of the brackets, spacers, and parts needed to install the Electric-Life power windows and remote lock kits in my car. I chose to use the Hotronic switch for the windows since once installed it can't be seen and the window crank stays in place. I chose the remote door locks for the same reason, no visible buttons.
OK, here is the Hotronic switch, I chose the long shaft version, this too proved to become a minor problem. The shaft was so long once installed the handle would have had more than a 1/2" gap between the handle and the door panel. I have a friend who made me some spacers, these are 5/8" thick, there are holes that match up to the shaft and mounting screws. I had him make a circular raised area that corresponds to the hole in the interior of the door where the switch mounts. The distance between the screw holes are just slightly large that of the hole in the door, tricky getting the holes drilled correctly.
Here is the spacer atop the switch, and what the assembly looks like once mounted to the door.
The Electric Life windows are two wire motors, a total of 6 wires attach to the switches. They had to be connected once the switch was inside the door, but before it was mounted in place. I tested the switch and motors off the car in order to make sure I connected the wires correctly and the switch would function that way it should.
Here are photos of the door lock parts, the bracket attaches to the door shell with 2 phillips screws. The large hole visible in the lower corner of the bracket is for one of the door panel mounting fasteners. There were two dimples in the shell of the door, I used these drilled thru as mounting points. I measured and there were in exactly the location on both doors in relation to other parts. This meant I could make one bracket and reverse it for the other door, the same for the rod that would pull on the lock rod in the door. I mocked up the lock rod with small sections of coat hanger wire until I was sure it would work properly. The overall length of the lock rods is just over 2", the small bracket that secures the actuator rod to the door lock rod has two very small set screws to hold everything tight. What a pain to reach and tighten, even when using a mirror it was very hard to reach and see. I was able to make the rod bend in such a way that these screws were facing the front of the car, this made them a little more accessible.
I just added a photo of the template I made for the door lock actuator brackets. I labeled the needed holes and provided the dimensions. The door panel mounting clip hole is not drilled thru, best to do that after you make yours and mount it in the door. You can then make the location exactly where this hole is located in your door shell.
I have courtesy light in my door and found that I was able to use the existing hole diameter and grommets for the courtesy light for all of the new wires. The door actuators have 5 wires, these are a small gauge and I removed the sleeve that came on the harness. It was flat like a ribbon and made from a reasonably thick rubber which would have taken up a lot of space. The windows required four wires at the switch, I made a harness that split once inside the door, this reduced the total number of wires into the door to 9. I decided to add a Molex gang plug disconnect inside the car, should I ever need to remove to work on the harness or switches. Here is a photo of the harness connection between the body and the door, I used the grommets that were on the original courtesy light harness and the covering is a fabric heat shrink sleeve.
I found that I needed to install the door lock parts first, tested them with the harness passing thru openings in the door shell. Once everything worked correctly, I installed the harness and secured it in place. The window switch was next and the window motor assembly was last.