Its a daily driver, I like the fact that I can run high 12's and still get 30MPG on the highway. Time slip scan is at the bottom of the page.

Recent Modifications: ZZP Stage II Intercooler install.

Intercooler Core monunted on the intake Manifold and my modifications to the Supercharger to help use the entire core area.

Supercharger is back on the engine, sits 2 inches higher now.

 

Back together and ready for some action, I installed a switch to turn the Intercooler pump on when I need it. (My Anti-KR switch) Most of the time it is not needed during normal daily driving where you're not making a lot of boost.

Complete "bullet proof" engine rebuild including:
Diamond forged pistons with teflon coated skirts and ceramic coated combustion dish.
GM forged powdered-metal L36 conecting rods.
ARP main cap, connecting rod, and head bolts.
Clevite 77 bearings.
All new GM hardware and gaskets.

Complete head rebuild including:
Lapped valve seats and decarbonize cumbustion chambers.
Sharp edges removed from combustion chambers.
Modified exhaust ports.

Valve train upgrade including:  
ZZP "VS" camshaft.
New GM stainless exhaust valves.
90lb valve springs.
Viton valve seals.
Competition Cams hydraulic roller lifters.
Competition Cams lightweight pushrods.
Cloyes timing chain and tentioner.

  Intake upgrades: K&N air filter, Modified air box with secondary FWI behind the fog light, WPI Xtreme ported supercharger w/coolant passages plugged, ZZP coupler and snout rebuild kit, Throttle body heat shield, ZZP modular supercharger pulley system 3.1" & 3.3", Gatorback supercharger belt, Oversized idler pulley & new GM belt tentioner.
Complete exhaust system upgrade including:
SLP stainless steel w/JetHot coating inside and out.
Magnaflow stainless resonator.
SLP 2.5" mandrel bent stainless CAT back
SLP stainless muffler.
Custom made stainless 2-bolt flanges.
All joints welded with stainless rod.
All flanges, joints and welds hand-ground and shaped to maximize exhaust flow.

Transmission and drivetrain upgrages:

Dynotech built stage II transmission.
Intense Gen-II limited slip differental.
ATF cooler.
GTP transmission mount.
Semi-Synthetic ATF.

Electronic drivetrain upgrades:
Custom PCM* (Powertrain Control Module.)HP Tuners
*This upgrade gives the engine much improved fuel tables and timing control. The red line is raised and the speed limiter is gone. It really makes all the high performance modifications run together much better.
The transmission performance is also improved. With the performance shift mode button on, shift points are raised and the line pressure is increased for crisper shifting. Skip shifting (4-2 and 3-1) is also turned on for some real neck-snapping down shifts.
In the normal shift mode it drives regularly for good milage.
It also optimizes the cooling fan run time to keep things cooler under the hood... and much more.

Miscellaneous new/upgraded parts:
New water pump.
New accessory belt tentioner.
Magnetic oil drain plug.
Premium oversized oil filters, and synthetic oil.
AC delco "AC41932" double platnum plugs. (one range colder than stock)
Drilled 180* thermostat.
PRJ fuel rail.
Dynamat on the tranny near the knock sensor to help avoid false KR (Knock Retard).

Braking and suspension upgrades:
Carbon Metalic brake pads all around. New Bendix rear rotors.
Next Level heavy duty solid swaybars front and rear.
Impalla "police package" rear tubular trailing arms.
BF Goodrich Traction TA tires on Buick 16" rims.

Appearance and creature comforts:
Tinted windows, (35% dark) smoke-tint.
GM factory sun/moon roof.
Sylvania Silver-Star headlights Hi/Lo beam,
140W Profile California AMP, Pioneer TS-A6995 6x9 4-way 300w speakers. The Profile AMP tucks out of the way nicely behind the wheel well in the trunk.

Another shot of the beast, a wolf in sheep's clothing... a real sleeper.
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Transmission Upgrade:

Dynotech built Stage-II race transmission.

The sub-frame is down and out.

Now it’s the transmissions turn.

The Craftsman motorcycle jack makes and excellent transmission jack, I couldn’t have done it w/o it. Why anyone would buy the “transmission jack” for 3 times as much, I’ll never know.

The subframe and steering rack, the new Trans still on the pallet.

A pic from down under.

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The Engine Project:

The Engine is out!

  On the stand and ready f or disassembly.

Dissassembly is underway. The SLP 1.8:1 high-ratio roller rockers will soon be sold to make way for the ZZP cam.

Checking out the detonation damage on piston #3. I got a sneak-peek with my fiberoptic borescope a month earlier through the spark plug hole.

A close up of piston #3, notice the missing part of the ring land. Forged Diamond pistons with a ceramic thermal coating will keep this from happening again.

On the bench: The stock cast piston that prompted the rebuild, there is that missing piece of ring-land again. It happened on a 5 degree day in January, Not sure, but I think it may have been a piece of ice in the fuel rail that clogged the injector and caused a lean condition. Detonation is no fun :( Fortunately the car still ran good enough until I had time to rebuild after I replaced the spashed spark plug.

My head work in progress, the exhaust port on the right has been ported. I removed the restrictive factory "knife-edge" (left port) and opend the port up a somewhat. The modded ports should really let me get the most out of the headers.

A close up of one of my ported exhaust ports. The smooth transitions should improve flow quite a bit. These mods are pretty minimal compared to after market heads, but should give me an edge. I wish I had more time to spend on the on them, but I needed to get this beast back on the road soon.

The head rebuild is almost done! After I de-carboned the heads I got rid of all the sharp edges in the combustion chambers (hot spots) this should help reduce knock. After lapping the valves, all thats left is final cleanup and assembly.

The last cylinder waiting to be honed (right cylinder). All the cylinders were within spec at 64k miles. I spot checked a few of the main bearings with plastigage just to check, they were also within spec. Nevertheless, it just made sence to do it right an replace it all... 64,000 miles of wear were erased and the engine is new again.

A 40 gallon roughneck tub from Walmart was a good investment, The engine block and engine stand pivot mount just fit.

About 30 gallons of hot water and concentrated dawn dish soap and some brushes made the engine spotless in a short time. The air compressor, some towels and a can of WD-40 were waiting to dry the block in quickly, and pickle it before rust could form.

With the new bearings, and the crank installed, it was time to do the new forged rods and pistons. Between the head work that I did and the thermal barier on the coated pistons, the cumbustion chambers should be free of hot spots. Notice how clean the block is... the hot soapy bath did the trick ;^)

With the cam installed and heads back on ... Torquing the ARP head bolts. GM's cheap torque-to-yeild bolts don't belong in a race motor ;^]

There's no room to put the high ratio SLP roller rockers back on with the big cam... gotta reinstall the stock ones. They do have a rollerized fulcrum, but the tip is not.

The Intenst LSD (Limited Slip Differential) is installed! With the engine out of the way it was easy work. The new differental makes much better use of the power, torque steer and wheel spin is reduced. I also installed a GTP tranny mount... much beefier than the Regal mount.

Tranny lines insulated from the headers. I used a tubing bender to reroute the power steering line near the pump away from the headers as well.... Just finishing up some of the details before I drop the engine back in. I also flipped the sway bar to make room for the headers.

The engine is back in!

Modification to the fan shroud to accomodate the headers. I worked this with some tin snips, and a set of body and fender dies.

With the motor back in, its time for the exhaust... Some 2.5" Stainless mandrel bent pipe should make things flow better at high speeds. Notice the custom flange welded to the front of the stock CAT, this allows a clamp joint for easy work, and future disassembly.

Magnaflow resonator and flange moved to the back. This allows me to drop the tail pipe and muffler in about 10 minutes (dead wieght) and bolt on a 45* turnout for the track.

Recently ran a 12.8 @ 109.5mph, a few runs had trap speeds over 110mph.

Time Slip:

Car #4, right lane:

Special thanks to my buddy Tom for all his help on this project, and Dave for letting us use his MIG welder.