This is a picture intruction manual for the UPR Clutch Quadrant and Firewall Adjuster install. This is the stock firewall clutch cable mount. No adjustment. Take out the two 4mm bolts one above, one below. You have to cut off a small metal lock ring and then cut off the plastic part that goes through the firewall. I used a dremel with cutoff wheel for the plastic and pliers for the lock ring. There is a rubber gromet under the plastic part, remove it. Be careful not to nick the clutch cable or the large plastic flange on the cable cover.

Next step is to remove your drivers seat. Some can do the job with it in the car, I did not even try. Once it is out you can get under to see the factory clutch quadrant. Pull out the cotter clip and then slide off the quadrant. Use a screwdriver and pry the spring off. Then take out the adjusters cotter clip, pry off the adjuster spring and then the adjuster.

Now you install the firewall adjuster. I had to use a dremel with a sanding drum to slightly enlarge the opening in the firewall. Then use the two UPR supplied screws to install. Don't tighten all the way yet. Install the adjuster and lock rings in the wobbly adjuster first, they will hit the cam cover if you lock the screws down early. Once they are in tighten as normal.

Then you put the UPR quadrant on the two shafts. It takes some 1/2" ID spacer washers on the pivot shaft to make the clutch cable line up with the center of the new firewall adjuster. I had a rubber one so I used it next to the quadrant. You can use all metal, won't matter. Use 3 on the drivers side and one on the passenger side.

Clutch cable should be in the middle of the firewall adjuster when properly positioned on the pivot shaft. I used the middle hook on the quadrant.

After this adjust out till the pedal has approx 1/2" play at the top of the stroke.
Jack the front of the car up and put it on jackstands. Get under the front of the transmission with a 8mm socket or wrench. Remove the inspection cover shwn here.

You want to check that the clutch fork has a little slack in it which will keep the throwout bearing from engaging the pressure plate, wearing it out. It should just barely come off the pressure plate fingers when you wiggle the clutch fork.