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Roadster-Sport Cat-Back Exhaust
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Information:
Variable pressure and sound exhaust for 99-02 Miata.

Best exhaust on the market for the money. You'll get your money worth on this one. I started with a Greddy SP, but changed to this Roadster for testing, and have it on ever since. Comes with a silencer, but don't need to use it...it's not that loud.

Check out the stock Mazda unit next to the Roadster. The bends are nice and uniform and no tapering.

The narrow blue arrow shows where to hold the bushing, and the bigger arrow shows which direction to push the bushing out to. You should spray this whole area with soapy water to make it easier to remove... wear rubber gloves.

Installed Roadster. Took about 30mins total. Now if I can just keep it all clean. Special note: You can see part of my BSP CAD-plated anti-roll bar sticking out.

INSTALL STEPS:

1) Jack up car's rear-end and put it on jack-stands.
2) Spray the two bolt holding the muffler to the cat with rust-remover or WD40.
3) Spray all hangers with soapy water.
4) Undo the nuts and remove both bolt. Muffler should hang by the three(3) hangers alone.
5) Undo the inside hangers on the right side of the muffler (your right as you look at the muffler). Easiest way is to move the rubber hangers off the car's underside.
6) Put something under the OEM muffler that will catch it when it drops.
7) Undo left side rubber hamger. Exhaust should drop down onto your catcher.
8) Take out the remaining rubber hanger and remove OEM muffler.
9) Remove all three(3) rubber hanger off OEM unit and clean them, will use them with new muffler.
10) Put everything back in reverse order.

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Sway Bars
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The stock sway-bars (anti-roll bar) in the Miata is fine for most driving. But upgraded sizing can help in very sharp and hard cornering.

Some bars promise high skidpad numbers but introduce understeer at the limit. While this is great selling point, it can mess up the Miata's handling and balance. Sometime, extra large bars can ruin the ride quality as well. I choose to go with Brainstorm Products (BSP) CAD plated bars.

The BSP plated bars compare to the stock black bars. Both front and rear bars are adjustable ends.

~ 1' Front sway bar
~ 5/8' Rear sway bar
~ Polyurethane bushings included
~ Zinc CAD plated (limit squeaking)

Install:
1) Jack up the rear of the car and put on jack-stand, and make sure your jack-stands are stable!
2) Spray the endlinks bolt/nut that are holding the OEM bars in place with WD40. Let is soak for 10-15 minutes.
3) Go under the car on your back where you're right under the bar, this will give you the most power with the wrench.
4) Remove the nut from the endlink bolt on both side. Once both nuts are out, do not remove bar ends from the endlink yet! If the nut does nut want to come out, repeat step #2 and keep repeating until the nut do come out. DO NOT force it...
5) Remove the bolts holding the OEM bushing mounts.
6) Remove both bushing and the bars should drop down, now push the endlinks away from the bars and the bars are free. Take note that there is a little bit of a toe-in on the rear bars.
7) Repeat backwards to mount new bars into place. Make sure you mount the toe-in side facing the right direction!
8) Drop the back, and jack up the front and place on jack-stands.
9) Remove under-body cover... make sure you mark which bolts/screws goes where, or you're going to have a hard time placing the right bolts/screws.
10) Repeat steps #2 to #5 to remove the front bars. NOTE: The front bars WILL NOT drop down because your lower hoses are in the way. DO NOT disconnect these hoses to remove your bar unless you like to drink coolant. With a little help, you should be able to slide the bar out from the front wheel well in front of the front wheel. Slide to the driver side, it's easier.
11) Mount the front bars in backward order.
12) Check all your nuts and make sure you don't have extra left over, remount the under-body cover.
13) Drop the front, double check once again to make sure everything is good... go for a drive!

Endlinks... this is the rear bars, notice the toe-in of the rear bars.

Rear bars mounted. I used a good amount of automative lithium grease to coat the bars to the bushing (white stuff on the bushing)

I had to cut a angle off the bushing mount to make it fit the area in the cross-member. A easy cut with a dremel tool, just don't remove too much metal because that would weaken your mounting point. You'll also notice a white mark on all my bolts. I used white-out to mark my bolt and nut for easy checking for nut movement... and it's also easier to see white marking with a flashlight.