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AEM Short-Ram Intake
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AEM Information:
~System is C.A.R.B. exempt in CA, or pending C.A.R.B. exemption (50-state legal)
~One-piece, cotton-gauze air filter with an exclusive air horn design that improves performance
~Comprehensive installation instructions
~Limited lifetime warranty
AEM Dyno Information:
HP: Base=110.4 Intake=114.6
Torq: Base=102.8 Intake=108.2
INSTALL:
1) Read the instructions from AEM!!!
2) Remove negative terminal connection on battery, and start to remove all bolts and screws holding in stock air-box.
3) Take out all the OEM air-ducts and box, you'll have about 6-8 peice of plastic left after install. Since AEM is CARB legal... you can throw our the stock air-box ;0)
4) Install the cone filter onto your pre-MAF pipe first.
5) Install your MAF onto this pipe where the filter is now attached.
6) Install the other pipe to your throttle body.
7) Now press everything together and line everything up nice and neat.
8) Tighten all the screws that's holding everything together. MAKE sure everything stay lined up as you do this.
9) Check all your connection and wiring, all hose should be plugged into something. If you have an open hose somewhere... you missed something.
10) Connect your battery cable.
11) Start her up and check to make sure nothing pops out of place.
12) Check for cleanence and drop the hood and go for a drive. Driving should be both city street and WOT on highway for ECU to program for the the better (more) air flow.
NOTE: All intake makes a loud "swoozing" sound when you turn the engine off, it's normal.
UPDATE @ 2/12/2005
After doing some testing of intake and under-hood temperature, I decide to design and fabricate a simple intake-heatshield for my AEM system.
I start with cardboard and just cut away. Would cut-&-fit until I came up with a design that looks good, fits under the hood, use OEM mounting points, and allow for OEM air flow.
Got a peice of 14g sheet metal from Home Depot for $10 and transfer my cardboard pattern to it. Than I cut the basic sharp out and start trimming. Air-cutters are nice to have at this point, but manual-cutter will work just as well.
Since I didn't have a good way of cutting the hole for the intake piping, I just used an arch design to go over the pipe. I would later make a bottom peice to come up and cover the gap.
The black lining on the edge are electric tape to prevent from cutting into other parts.
Finish and mounted. I used door edging to protect the the edge of the shield from rubbing the hood and intake-piping.
Testing of the temperature shows that the intake heat-shield is doing it's job. I drove it in city and highway at WOT for about 15 minutes, parked and took temperature reading from both side of the heat-shield. The highest temperature was 227'F right near the exhaust manifold heat-shield while inside the heat-shield was a cool 84'F. It's not very scientific but you get the point.
Version 2.0 of heat-shield fabrication (3/1/2005). Anyway, after putting some miles on it, I notice that the edging plastic that I was using to protect the intake-piping had come loose and the heat-shield was rubbing the piping. So I went and worked on version 2.0, which resolve the two peice issue and came out with one peice item. I also used plastic water tubing to encicle the hole and for better protection from rubbing.
Since I was at it... I also worked on an idea I have had for a while about directing cool air into the intake area. I notice that there is a OEM hole right near the intake where cool air can come up from, right in front of the front wheel well. So instead of allowing air to flow in, I installed a 90'deg pipe which directed air coming from the front bumper mouth and force it into the same area. The theory is sound, but I can't really test it.
My next project would fabrication of piping that leads to the outside of the bumper, maybe to the OEM foglight holes... but I have to live without the OEM fog-lgiht.
