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Mustang coil spring install
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Because I've heard lots of horror stories concerning coil spring installations, I thought I'd write a small tutorial to try and debunk the myths. It's really not that difficult. These are the stock springs on my '89 Mustang.
Removal is pretty straightforward. After removing the wheel, remove the disc brake caliper and tie it up out of the way. Remove the sway bar links. Next, remove the cotter key from the tie rod end, loosen the tie rod nut several threads (but don't remove it) and use a tie rod seperator (pickle fork) to break it loose. Several raps with a 3 lb sledge hammer should do it. You may tear up the grease boot but that can easily be replaced. Next, place a floorjack under the lower A-arm and raise it just enough to relieve the tension on the suspension. Remove the 2 lower strut bolts and then VERY CAREFULLY lower the floorjack until the spring literally falls out. Clean everything up and you're ready for installation.
First, you'll need to get ahold of a quality inside spring compressor. I bought mine on Ebay for around $30. If you don't want to buy one, Autozone's tool loaner program will lend you one for free!
I had to add spacers to get just the right configuration to clear the spring pockets, frame, etc. I used several 3/4" grade 8 nuts.
Before installing the compressor, be sure to install the rubber tube inside the spring and the spring isolator on the bottom coil. Now, insert the compressor into the spring and adjust it with the spacers, so that the top of the threaded rod is flush with the top coil when the compressor is snug. This will be a trial and error method. Note the position of the compressor forks. The longer one is on the 2nd coil and the shorter is on the 3rd coil.
Next, make sure the bottom of the compressor is in this position. The shorter fork is on the 4th coil and the longer is on the 3rd coil. Note the position of the bolt head, just below the 2nd coil. Everything needs to be positioned just right to clear the spring pocket on the bottom and the frame on top.
All the while you need to keep the threaded rod as centered as possible within the spring, both top and bottom.
It takes some finesse but be patient and you'll get it. This is how it should look when installed and ready to compress. Note the upper and lower forks are diametrically oppossed to each other (90* offset).
The only way to do this right is with the proper tools. A quality air impact gun and air compressor are a must! If you don't have access to air tools, get the compressor adjusted just right and snug, then bring it to a front end shop and have them use their impact to compress it. Once the spring is installed, you'll have to loosen the compressor with a socket and long breaker bar. It'll be a lot easier to loosen it than to tighten it!
Once the spring is compressed, slip it into position making sure the end of the pigtail is positioned between the 2 alignment holes in the bottom of the A-arm spring cup.
Here's where it really helps to have an extra set of hands, however, I did it by myself. It just takes patience and determination. Now, slide the floorjack under the A-arm and slowly raise it up making sure the pigtail remains positioned between the alignment holes. Reinstall the lower strut bolts, sway bar links, tie rod end and brake caliper, remove the compressor and move on to the other side. I took my time and did both sides in about 3-1/2 hours on a Saturday. It's not a hard install. The key is patience! Good luck!
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