Here is my '91 shortbed S10. It's not show queen, it's hauled a lot home improvement material, as well as towing the boat.
After the 2.5 holed the #2 piston, I yanked it out and started over with a '74 350 block, bored .030" and fitted with flat top cast TRW pistons, put in a Comp 268XE cam (.477/.480 lift, 224/230 duration @ .050")I currently have stock 76cc heads. I run a JET performance stage II Quadrajet carb on a Wieand Action plus manifold, have Hedman shorty headers and 2 1/4" dual exhaust.
The trans is a Pro-Built (www.pro-built.net) 700R4 with a 2200 stall ACT converter. The stock rearend has been rebuilt by Bernard Tripp with new bearings and a Zexel-Torsen limited slip added and the axle tubes welded. my best ET has been 9.36 at 74.5 mph in the 1/8 mile. I painted it myself in the back yard all in one weekend, still looks good four years later! Chassis wise it is still basically stock, the four cylinder coils in front sagged about 2" with the V8, and I added 2" lowering blocks to the rear. The wheels are swap meet find Centerline copies in 15X8.5 in the rear wearing 265/50/15 Futuras and the fronts are 15X7 with 225/60/15 Futuras. I added power steering from a mid 80's Firebird to quicken the ratio and changed out the tiny 13 gallon fuel tank for a 20 gallon unit from a V6 truck. I have gotten as much as 18.5 MPG on the interstate at 70mph cruise which I think is pretty good considering the cam I'm running. a
ge One
Posted by: redyoder
03/12/2004, 08:07pm
SUP again, I got the shifter at Advance Auto right off the shelf for bout $20 and as for the rear bumper crease I used a round rust disk you can find at Walmart automotive section and put it on a die grinder grinded the crease out for proper adhesion of a special filler for bumpers that stays flexible.Filled the crease and used a flat paint stick with 80 grit to keep everything straight and worked to finer grits and laid heavy coats of urethane primer.That should answer your questions.Talk to you later.