Check out our new car 2003 Infiniti G35 Sedan ... I really miss my Jeep though. It is so true, it really is a Jeep thing! . Regardless, the Infiniti is a blast to drive...powerful, sexy, handles amazingly, and it has a nice plush interior.
Here's the Jeep parked along Rt287 in Northern PA. We are in front of a road cut that has exposed fossilized brachiopods and starfish and are doing a little searching to add to my fossil collection!
A lot of people ask me about the Bushwhacker flares for the XJ. Here's the deal... you CAN use the older style fender flares on a new XJ. Some people say you can't, some people say you have to modify the fenders, and some people (most people) don't know what the hell they are talking about. Obviously you can install the flares on a newer XJ, I have 20 photos to prove it. You mount the flares the same was as you would on an older XJ, except you need to do the following...
1) trim off some of the inner lip of the flare. This is especially true of the rear flares as they are attached to the door. Be careful, take your time, and measure twice (sometimes cardboard cutouts help). This will leave you with a nice looking installation.
2) you have to screw the flares into the fender, except for 4 holes on the driver-side front fender. This is because the window-washer reservior is located just behind the fender. If you install the screws, you will punch a hole into the tank and destroy it. I used 4 stainless-steel rivet with a large head and a stainless washer on the backside. I also used a piece of the flare that I trimmed off as a rub-plate to protect the washer tank from puncturing. I simply took a 2"x5" piece I cut off, put some Liquid-Nails on the back and stuck it to the tank.
3) this isn't really a tip, but a requirement. DO NOT USE RIVETS FOR MOUNTING ALL THE FLARES! I have seen a half-dozen guys do this and then when they starting flexing and crawling, the strain on the body and body panels is so great that the flares "pop" and crack. Screws will actually allow more flex than a rivet and will also let you unscrew the flare should you need to remove it for whatever reason.
Drivetrain:
4.0L HO I-6
Aisen AW4 Automatic
NP231-J w/ Advanced Adapters SYE
Tom Woods Driveshaft
Dana 30 Front Axles (stock for now)
Chrysler 8.25" Rear axle (stock too)
Mopar Transfer case skidplate
Mobil 1 Synthetic 80w-90
Morse Ceramic Disc Pads
Suspension:
3.5" Tuff Country Suspension Lift
2" RRO budget lift
2" Rubicon Express AAL
Rough Country Sway bar disconnects
Big-Daddy Offroad tie rod
Rough Country dropped P/A
RRO Bar pin eliminators
Rough Country S.S. brake lines
Rough Country Adj Trackbar
MAKO Offroad Bumpstops + extenders
Tires/Wheels:
33"x12.5"R15 Firestone Destination M/T (awesome freaking tires!!!)
15"x8" ProComp Rock Krawler Rims
Engine Mods:
K&N Air Filter
1" T.B. Spacer
Accel Super Coil (45k volts)
Accel 8mm wires
Accel U-groove spark plugs
Accel Super cap and rotor
Mobil 1 0w-40 oil
K&N Oil Filter
Flowmaster Delta-40 2.25" muffler
Exterior:
Nates 4x4 Custom Front Bumper
RRO Differential Guards
Bushwhacker Fender Flares
TexasFab Rear Bumper
Zacatal Roof rack w/Hi-Lift Jack mount
Window Tint
I.C.E.:
Pioneer CD Player
5.25" Pioneer coaxial speakers (4)
12" IMPP Pioneer Subwoofer
760W Pioneer 2-channel bridged amp
500W Pioneer 4-channel amp
1" Pionner tweeters
Scosche MegaWire Street Kit
Uniden 40-channel CB
3ft. Firestik CB antenna
Future Mods planned:
Powerslot rotors
More skidplates
Pontiac Grand Prix hood vents (painted to match)
Rock Rails
Banks Header
4.88 Gears
ARB Lockers (front and rear)
Dana 30 ARB Evolution kit
Ford 8.8 w/ rear disc (maybe)
C-ROK gearbox brace
8" RockKrawler Long Arm Kit
Page 1 - Updates
Page 2 - muddin'
Page 3 - Shopping list
Page 4 - Mod list
Page 5 - Testing Lift
Page 6 - After lift
Page 7 - STOCK!!!
Page 8 - Just Empty Every Pocket
Page 9 - Diana and I
