This is.."MORTY BIRD" ..the Supervisor on this project...which should give you some idea of just how complicated this really is.

  Follow along and I'll show you how I have replaced the stock rear suspension in my 79 Chevette with a"Parallel Leaf Spring Suspension" and a 1984 S-10 3.73 Limited Slip Possi Rear Axle.

If you think this looks like a pretty simple setup...you're right. It's not "Rocket Science", but it has been a long time in the works and represents an investment of around $1000 in parts and farmed out work. It took me a couple of years of working out all the details, and getting all the parts  collected and ready for this particular part of this project.

After seeing and reading about so many Chevettes where somebody did an engine swap only to have the stock Chevette rear axle give up shortly there after, and sideline the car, I decided to do things a little different  by swapping rear axles first and making sure in the process that my new rear axle can handle to about 400HP if I decide to go there. My thinking being...this project is taking me along time and a sizable amount of money to make happen...so once I'm finally able to get my Chevette up and running I want it to stay running. The stock Chevette rear axle was never intended to withstand much more than 100HP, so if youre going to swap in any engine that puts out quite a bit more than 100HP you really need to consider a rear axle swap in the whole process in the first place. Otherwise you could be setting yourself up for alot of down time with your project.

What you're looking at here is a 1984 S10 3:73 Limited Slip Possi Rear Axle that is exactly the same width as a stock 79 Chevette Rear Axle. It's "probably" the same width as most all stock Chevette rear axles..but the only one I've actually measured it against is my 79. It has been fitted with 1980 Cadillac Eldorado 10.5" Rotors and Rear Calipers which have built in Parking Brake Levers that will be activated by an NOS Chevette Parking Brake Cable. Brake pics on page #3 My long time friend Chuck Grove ( C.H.Grove Enterprizes , Lynnwood Washington Phone 425 398 1634 ) adapted the brake calipers and relocated the spring pads for me. One thing that I like about this setup is that if I should end up breaking it...it will be a whole lot easier to fix or replace if that becomes nessasary. The rest of what you see here has been done by me with the use of hand tools, an electric drill, a bench style drill press, my Sawsall, and an occasional helping hand from my two sons.

The Leaf Springs I used here measure 48"x 2.5" (Part #RS-3540) and come from Chassis Engineering Inc, as do the Shackles (Part #AU-2214). What makes this particular set of Leaf Springs work so well in this application is that thier dimensions are right on the money. At 2.5" wide they bolt right in to the Control Arm Brackets. This puts thier Axle Locating Pins exactly 24" from the bolt holes in the Control Arm Brackets. This matches the stock Chevette measurements exactly, and places the axle housing in the stock location in the middle of the wheel well opening. It can't be more perfect than that. Using my Sawsall I removed just enough of the trunk floor so that a new home can be created for a new 1986 Jeep Scrambler 15 Gallon Gas Tank.

The Front Spring Eyes bolt into the factory brackets for the stock Chevette Control Arms after I drilled the holes out from 3/8" to 1/2". Just to be on the safe side...I used Grade 8 bolts for this. Although they look very solid and plenty sturdy,,,once "BUTRNUT" is up and running... I plan on checking these frame brackets , for cracks and such, on a regular basis to make sure they hold up to thier new power transfer responsibilities and if need be they will be reinforced.
On the right side of this picture you can see the rusty drivers side floor pan which is the only seriously rusty spot on the whole car. It's another project for my Sawsall and our new Wire-Feed Welder thats' comming soon. I'm also going to end up replacing all of the Brake Lines, and running a new Fuel Line back to the Gas Tank, but before I do that, I'm going to give the entire bottom of the floor a really good going over with a pressure washer and then give it a coat of POR-15 , which is an excellent rust inhibitor and sealer.
The Lower Shock Mounts (Part #AR-1000F) and U Bolts (Part #AU-2025C) are also from Chassis Engineering Inc . These are the stock Shocks...I just had to loosen up the top nut on them a little... then I was able to slip them onto the Lower mounts. Before it's done these will be replaced with new shocks or possibly air shocks..we'll see. That Coil Spring Pad, above the axle, comes off very easily with a hammer and chisel.
You can't really see it in the above picture very well because I removed it, but the biggest obstruction that has tobe gotten out of the way is the Panhard Bar Tower. This was my "point of no return", so I took a deep breath and with my Sawsall I cut off the Panhard Bar Tower as close as I could to the frame rail. Once the Tower and the Stock Gas Tank, which I actually took out first, were out of the way... things really started comming together...I've got a very nice Finned Aluminum Access Cover, with a dain plug, waiting tobe installed here too.

I think Chevrolet could have built Chevettes with a "Parallel Leaf Spring Suspension" in the first place ...if they just could have used a different Gas Tank and gone with a different way to store the spare tire. And I think we'd still be seeing alot more Chevettes on the road today if they had just built them with a 2.8 V6 and an S-10 rear axle in the first place. I'm going to take care of the "Spare Tire" by carrying a least two cans of"Fix-A-Flat" in the car...but... I really don't expect my new BFG Traction TAs to give me any kind of tire problems for a very long time anyway.

This is deffinately an "Under Construction" shot, with lots left to "tweek" before I'll consider it done and road worthy, so untill I figure out something better...I'm using the Rear Spring Eyes from two Chrysler Cordoba Leaf Springs, that measure 2.5"x9.5", to create the mounting brackets for my shackles. The Leaf Spring End in this pic is sandwiched between two pieces of .5"x6"x6" Steel Plate. If I keep this setup the top plate will be replaced with one measuring .5"x8.5"x6", and the bottom plate will be replaced with one measuring .5"x7.25"x6",then the three pieces will bolted together so that the Leaf Spring End won't be just hanging out in the wind...it will be reinforced and secured it's full length. I've been advized that its' not a good idea to weld Spring Steel because it can lose its' temper and break. Since I need the mounting point for the Shackle tobe as close to the floor as I can get it...bolting the plates together with the Leaf Spring End like this...seems tobe the way that works "for now". 

Once I set everything in place  I could figure out the proper angle for the shackles Leaf Spring Tech and  I could also figure out where to mark the Leaf Spring Ends for placement of the holes for the bolts that will hold the three pieces together. This was the first time that I actually had everything bolted in place... so it helps alot to have these pictures...because I can study what I've been doing and plan improvements that I might make in the future.

I also have to make sure that the centers of the Leaf Spring Ends are not only 37 5/16" apart but that they are equally distant from the center line of the body, like the front Spring Eyes, so that the Leaf Springs end up being parallel. The measurement of 37 5/16" between the centers of the factory control arm brackets is taken from my 79 Chevette Factory Frame Chart that I found on E-Bay.

The four bolts at each corner of the steel plates go up thru the trunk floor on each side of the frame rails in the trunk. They then pass thru four pieces of .75" pipe and will eventually go thru a third piece of plate .5"x6"x6" that will sit on top of the frame rail. After everything is tightened down...the plates will be clamped together around the frame rail... the pieces of pipe will make sure that the pieces of plate snug up to but don't crush the frame rails. I'm thinking about adding a piece of steel channel to cap the top of each frame rail to help spread the load and reinforce the frame rails. My main objective is to create a an extremely solid mounting point for the shackles. I think this setup is going to work out pretty good for that. Like I said...still got lots of "tweeking" to do before it's road worthy and pretty.
.

 

UPDATE : March 12th 2009...This is some of the "tweeking" I mentioned above...I've been giving a lot of thought to how I could improve on  "BUTRNUTs"" Shackle Mount design, and  I believe I've  found the improvment I've been looking for. So I bought a pair of these "Chrome Moly Steel"  Jeep CJ Shackle Brackets made by JKS Manufacturing.  I can apreciate that for this project  "Chrome Moly Steel"  may be a "wee bit" of "over kill", but in this case I think a little "over kill" is acceptable. These pieces are most deffinately  much stronger that the Cordoba Spring Ends...plus... they'll add a much more professional appearence to the whole Rear Suspension installion.  In the process of this little change the .5"x6"x6" Plates will be replaced with .5" Plates measureing .5"x7.25"x6"(top) and .5"x8.5"x6"(bottom),  then the Jeep Brackets will bolt  to the Bottom Plates. This should raise the body up about 1/2" and  create a little more tire clearance between the top of the tires and fender lip, not much...but a little.  I might make the Rear Suspension somewhat  adjustable by  installing Air Shocks, and I might  possibly install an S10 Rear Sway Bar. More about all this later.

Most the time if you see a Chevette with a V6 or V8 engine swap it will have a hole in the hood, for the Carburator, and a Hood Scoop to cover that hole. Maybe someday I'll put a Cowl Induction Hood Scoop on "BUTRNUT"...but as you scroll down this page you'll see how I plan to install a 2.8 V6 with a BG Road Demon Jr  4V Carburator, on an Edelbrock Intake Manifold, and keep everything under the stock hood with "no hole" for now.

If my plans don't work out the way that I'd Like...as you can see...I am prepared to...ah... cover up the problem hole...but only "if" and when it becomes absolutely nessasary.

 

A major part of this rear axle swap involves replacment of the stock Chevette Fuel Tank because it's displaced by the New Leaf Spring Rear Suspension, After much internet searching, and much time spent with my Tape Measure, I found the perfect replacment Fuel Tank, with perfect dimensions. These two pics show where "BUTRNUTs'" 86 Jeep Scrambler 15 Gallon Gas Tank is going live.

With a straight edge and magic marker..I started by drawing a line with the magic marker across the trunk floor between the two little plates that the bumper bracket bolts screw into. Then I drew lines parallel to the frame rails leaving a 2" wide lip about 18" long on each side. Next I drew a fourth line across which created a rectangle approximately 29"x18"x29"x18". Then I cut the rectangle out very carefully with my Sawsall.

 

The 86 Jeep Scrambler 15 Gallon Gas Tank has a .5" lip around its' middle and measures 25"Long x 18.5"Wide and is 11"High. About 5.5" of the tank is above the Lip...and about 5.5" is below it.

The Gas Tank Cradle is made of two pieces of 2"x2"x1/8"x29" Angle Iron, two pieces of 2"x2"x1/8"x11.5" Angle Iron, and two Pieces of 2"x2"x3/16"x17.25" Square Tubeing. The two 11.5" pieces, and one 29" piece, of Angle Iron lay on top of the Trunk Floor lip that was left in place after I cut the floor out. On each side of the cradle a piece of Square Tubeing is welded to a 11.5" piece of Angle Iron, and is held in place by two of the bolts and pieces of .75" pipe that hold the Shackle Brackets in place. The butt ends of the square tubeing are welded to the two 29" pieces of Angle Iron. This forms a retangular mounting cradle with an opening, with dimensions of 24.5"Long x 17.25"Wide, that is exactly big enough for the bottom half of the Jeep Gas Tank to fit in nice and snug with a 1/2" wide strip of Wheather Stripping around it's perimiter right under the .5" Lip. The Lip around the Tank can now rest on the Cradle and be attached to it at each corner with pieces 1" strap steel mounted diagonallyat each corner.

One of the really neat things about this Jeep Gas Tank (besides it's 15 Gallon capacity) is that once it is mounted in its' cradle the Filler and Vent Pipes both line up perfectly with the stock Chevette Fuel Door on the left rear quarter panel. A Jeep Filler Neck will be bolted in place of the stock Chevette Filler Neck, and then after two holes are made in the Wheel Well Wall (and rubber grommets installed) stock size Jeep hoses will then connect the Jeep Filler Neck to the Tank. The stock Chevette Trunk Cover conceals everything.

 

 

 

 

I'm looking for some kind of waterproof or rubberized sheet material that I can use for covering up this gap so that water won't be kicked up into the trunk. The Gas Tank will be secured with four pieces of 1"x1/8"x5" Steel Strap held in place with screws and mounted diagonally at each corner

Things will look lots better under here after I get it all cleaned up, detailed, and painted.

There's plenty of room on each side, between the Gas Tank and Leaf Springs, for 2" Exhaust Pipes with 67 Corvette 2" Angle Cut Stainless Tips

"BUTRNUT" already has two Spintech Pro-Street Mufflers waiting to be installed. She might also end up with two  Spintech 2" Hi-Flow Cats in her duel exhaust system . The Pro-Street Mufflers measure 4"x6"x12" with 2" inlets and outlets.

Turn up your surround sound and click here to hear a stock GM 2.8 V6 with a Spintech Muffler

I found these on E-Bay. ..3/8" Header Flanges for a GM 2.8 V6

In the July 1982.. Hot Rod Magazine .. there is an article about the 2.8 V6 Chevette that GM built as a prototype they were thinking of marketing. It's very interesting and helpfull information if you're thinking about putting a 2.8 V6 in a Chevette. The article mentions that GM got thier Chevette to do 15.99@94.7MPH in the quarter mile. They did that with a 110HP 2.8 V6, a 700R4 and a stock rear axle with 3.36 gears. I 've been toying with the idea that with a 175HP 2.8 V6, a T5 5speed, and a much better rear suspension with 3.73 gears, that maybe I could get "BUTRNUT" to do a high 14 or low 15 secound quarter mile at around 100MPH or so. Sure would be fun to try... and... it would prove that a real live "Muscle Car" can come in a "Small Package".

This is most definately on "BUTRNUTs" list of "stuff to get". Hardly anybody makes these X Style Crossover Kits in a 2" size. It took some searching to find one at Stainless Works

All four wheels are 14"x6" Chevy Ralleys

All four tires are BFG Traction TAs 205/60/14. I got them at www.tirerack.com

I've been asked several times why I decided to go with a GM 2.8 V6 in "BUTRNUT" instead of a much more powerfull GM4.3 V6 or a Chevy Smallblock V8.  It's not that I didn't think about using one of  these bigger engines, I thought about it alot and wieghed all the pros and cons, then I decided that what I really wanted was to do an  engine swap, that I could afford, that would take the least amount of "cutting and hacking". Using a GM 2.8 V6 accomplishes this with flying colors.

You can put a 4.3 V6 or a Smallblock V8 in a Chevette ...but...be prepared to trim, cut, hack, weld and then reenforce what you trimmed, cut, and hacked in order to make things fit. I didn't want to end up doing that from bumper to bumper and I didn't want to turn "BUTRNUT" into a "Pro-Street Car".  Now I'll grant you that I have ended up doing my share of "cutting and hacking" to make things fit...but...I haven't ended up gutting the entire  car to get what I've been after. My effots have all followed my original plan...that being... I want "BUTRNUT" to end up being the Chevette that Chevrolet "should have" built. And I know that she isn't going to be the fastest Chevette on the planet ...but...that's ok... because she will be a very well balanced, relatively economical, streetable, and dependable package..." built on a budget". 

This is  one of the cleanest examples I've seen of a GM 2.8 V6 in a Chevette.  What I really like about these Fuel Injection Units is that if I were to use one I wouldn't have to cut a hole in "BUTRNUTs'" hood for the Air Cleaner, nor would I have to put on any kind of Hood Scoop....this would be a really good thing...so I've been giving this idea some serious  thought . But as you'll see when you scroll down a bit further on this page that I've found something else that will also prevent  the cutting of any holes in "BUTRNUTs'" hood and is a whole lot simpler than setting up a Fuel Injection ( as trick as that might be) 

 Over the last few years I've collected  enough quality parts tobe able to build a pretty healthy GM 2.8 V6 that should end up with around 175HP. Some of the list includes : "NOS" 1985 GM 2.8 V6 Short Block with 9:1 pistons and one piece rear main seal : later model "big valve heads" : HV Oil Pump : Crank Scraper : 4x4 Oil Pan : Double Roller Timing Chain : Crane H-272-2 Cam : Rhoads Lifters : Comp Cams Roller Tip Rocker Arms  : Edelbrock 4V Intake Manifold : Barry Grant Road Demon Jr. 525 Manual Choke Carb : NOS 1984 Jeep Electronic Distributor : Black Wrinkle Finish Fiero Valve Covers ( which I'm sure are good for at least an extra 10HP )

After about three years of hunting I have finally found a company that makes a Gear Reduction Starter for the GM 2.8 V6. It's.. Mean Green Industries ..and one of thier distributors is.. www.racepages.com

If you are going to swap a GM 2.8 V6, a GM Vortec 4.3 V6, or a small block Chev V8 into your Chevette, the most important part you'll need to find is a 4 x 4 Oil Pan.  Using a 4 x 4 Oil Pan not only eliminates clearence problems over the front crossmember... but also helps to get the engine as low as possible for hood clearence. Be sure to pay attention to your ground clearence, if your Chevette sits to low the Oil Pan Sump may need tobe sectioned. And go to Jags That Run if you're thinking about swapping a Chevy V8 into your Chevette to check out thier S-10 V8 4 x 4 Oil Pan.

I bought one of these very trick Billet Aluminum Pulley Kits for my 2.8 V6 from Classic Conversions Engineering They specialize in mounting GM 2.8 V6s in MGBs. The Pulleys are designed to work with a FWD/FIERO Water Pump and come with new brackets that mount the Alternator relatively low on the drivers side of the engine when compared to Factory Stock FWD 2.8 Alternator Brackets. Not only do these Pulleys shorten the engine by a couple of inches...they also add between 10 to 15HP

I decided to do something a little different in order to mount my 2.8 V6 in "BUTRNUT". Instead of building my Motor Mounts off of the Stock Chevette Motor Mount Towers, like what's pictured above, and like I've seen done on alot of Chevettes, I bought a pair of Motor Mount Plates from Bill Guzman at Classic Conversions Engineering . These will mount my 2.8 V6 in a manner very much like a Ford Flathead V8 and, along with very carefully triming  the Chevette Motor Mount Towers, will help to open up alot more room for the Exhaust Headers ......Click here to see one of the nicest MGB Roadsters on the Planet and click here to see one of the nicest BUGEYE SPRITES you'll ever see

  My plan is to use Motor Mount Frame Adapters, similar to what's pictured above on this page from Chassis Engineering, then very carefully trim and reinforce the stock Motor Mount Towers on the front crossmember to make room for my headers. These next few pictures show how nicely a GM 2.8 V6 fits in an MGB when using the Engine Mounting Kit from Classic Conversions Engineering.

This passenger side Header from Classic Conversions Engineering looks like it would work fine on a Chevette. The drivers side Header looks like it would also work, but maybe with a little modification. Very carefully triming the stock Chevette Motor Mount Towers  from the Chevette Front Crossmember will make alot more room for the Header Pipe to go between the frame and  the Chevette steering shaft. 

Using an Edelbrock 4V Carb Riser on a 2.8 V6 in "BUTRNUT" would deffinately  require a hole in her hood...which is something I've decided I'd like to avoid if I can. Notice how the carb on the motor pictured below sits so much lower than the one pictured above. Scroll down a bit further to see what I found that should cure any hole in the hood problem.

 

 

UPDATE...March 13th 2009...I bought one of these for "BUTRNUT". It's a CNC Machined Manifold Top that fits on an Edelbrock 2.8 V6 Intake Manifold and is another little goody that I found at Classic Conversions Engineering. After watching the Videos on thier Web Site, that show how well this thing works, I know I've stumbled on to something very sweet here.  I'm also pretty sure that  it can help anyone who wants to use a Four Barrel Carburator on a 2.8/3.4 V6 in a Chevette just like it helps in an MGB.   We'll have to wait untill we actually fit the engine into place to see just how much room we'll have for the Air Cleaner , but I'm very confident that by using this piece in conjuntion with a 4x4 Oil Pan  the engine should sit low enough to eliminate any need for a hole in "BUTRNUTs'" hood.   

                                                                             

 

 

Below are pics of the "New & Improved" CNC Machined Manifold Top that I recieved from Classic Conversions Engineering. If  it works as good as it looks....I think we'll be OK.

 

 

I haven't decided which one yet...but "hopefully" either a Barry Grant Flying Wedge (pictured above),  one of these Holly Hi-Tech pieces (pictured below left), or a round 11:x2" Air Cleaner with a K&N Filter,  will end up on top of "BUTRNUTs'" Barry Grant 525 Road Demon Jr. and should be all under the hood with no hole...no scoop, no foul.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The pic on the upper  right is of a little something that I've been considering for a long time for the front end of "BUTRNUT". It's a Coil-Over Suspension Kit for an 84-87 Fiero from Held Motor Sports

In case you didn't know...  84-87 Fieros and 76-87 Chevettes share the same "basic" upper and lower Control Arms, Bushings, and Steering Nuckles. The most obvious differences are in how the shocks are mounted on each car and the fact that the Fiero Front Crossmember (pic on left) and  Fiero Rack & Pinion "wil not interchange with a Chevette"  because they are 4" wider than the Chevette Front Crossmember and Rack & Pinion . 

The goods news here is... as I understand it.."theoretically"..  this suspensiom kit, "should" bolt onto a Chevette Front Crossmember just as easily as it would  a Fiero. And with this kit  it would be relatively easy to tune the suspension to handle any extra engine weight  by simply changing the springs on the Coil-Over Shocks. Another plus would be that this would make for a really trick little surprize under "BUTRNUTs"" front end... and trick stuff is always cool...well almost always. The only drawback to  buying this kit  is in the $1100 price tag. So we'll have to wait and see on this one.

Since I already have a new pair of Chevette A/C Front Coil Springs...If I don't go for one of these kits and decide to just rebuild 'BUTRNUTs" front suspension... I am thinking quite seriously of getting a set of Delrin A-Arm Bushings fom Westcoastfiero. 

Another  exellent place to find "basic" replacement parts for a Chevette Front Suspension  is "THE FIERO STO RE"  

These custom made Chevette Front Hubs have a Chevy 5 on 4.75" Bolt Pattern and will use 1980 Cadillac Eldorado 10.5" Rotors with S-10 4x4 Front Calipers. They were created for me by Darrell Morse, who the last I heard lives in Elk River Mn. Ph.763 441 5679, fax 763 241 8353, E-Mail morse86@aol.com . My long time friend Chuck Grove ( C.H.Grove Enterprizes Lynnwood Washington 425 398 1634)  will be adapting  S-10 4x4 Calipers to the refurbished Fiero/Chevette Spindles  that I bought from the Fiero Store. For more info about "BUTRNUTs'"  "Four Wheel Power Disk Brakes" and "New Rally Wheels" go to Page#3 .

 

 

These seats actually came out of a 69 Pontiac Firebird..but..they're identicle to 69 Camaro seats...they just have a different cover design...that will be changed. To adapt them to the Chevette Seat Stands all I had to do was elongate the holes in the Chevette sliders. Then I used .5" thick Stainless Steel blocks, that I found at our local Steel Yard, as spacers to raise the seats up enough for the Chevette Sliders to work.

 

This is what my seats will look like when they get recovered...69 Camaro Blac k Hound stooth. It turns out that the back seat in a 69 Camaro Convertible is 48' wide compared to 44" for the back seat in a Chevette. So when the time comes I'm going to find somebody who can either modify a 69 Camaro Convert Back Seat Cover to fit "BUTRNUTs" back seat or recover it with a whole new cover to get the effect that I want.

All of "BUTRNUTs'" interior panels and dash are in extremely good shape, they just need a good cleaning and detailing. New Black Carpet is planned after we fix the rusty Drivers side floor pan.I found the Chevette Tilt Wheel at our local PULL-APART Wrecking Yard

My Chevy Van Instrument Cluster with it's 140MPH Speedometer. I got this one on E-Bay but you can find them at Speedometer Solutions ... How to install Chevy Van Gauges in a Chevette Dash

I finally found a really good use for this Van Gauge Cluster in "POPSTOY"

 

What can I say...but I changed my mind...and decided to go with a much more business-like look with my dash. I had these Autometer Pro-Comp 5" Gauges, that I actully bought for my 48 Dodge, and decided to see how they would look in "BUTRNUT" ... with a little "whittling" of an extra gauge cluster housing...and an 1/8th" piece of aluminum ( cut with a water jet ) I've made them fit.  Since I did  use this Speedometer and Tach in my 48 Dodge it looks like I'll be investing in another set of Autometer Pro-Comp gauges pretty soon.

 

 

 

 

 

UPDATE SEPT 30th 2009..."BUTRNUT" will be getting a set of these Autometer Pro-Comp Ultra-Lite Gauges. 5" Speedometer and Tach, and either 2 1/16" or 2 5/8" Water, Oil, Volts, and Fuel.

 

 

Although I really like the 2 5/8" gauges ( because they're easier to see  and  remember... I'm an old fart ), I've been thinking for a while now about changing to a panel to mount four 2 1/16" gauges under the radio. Hanging the 2 5/8" fuel gauge under the light switch works... but does look a little out of place and I'm thinking that maybe I'd rather have all the  smaller gauges  mounted  together. Four 2 1/16" gauges can fit on a panel about the same length as the one shown above here with three 2 5/8" gauges.  

It took a little internet hunting but I finally found what I was looking for...so I ordered a four 2 1/16" gauge panel, pictured below, from EGAUGES.COM.

 

OH Yes...this is going to be much better

 

 

UPDATE March 29 2009...I've found myself in a position of having to rethink my choice of transmissions for "BUTRNUT". For a long time the choice has been a 700R4...but...as it turns out the "TV Cable" for the 700R4 isn't compatable with the new CNC Aluminum Manifold Top that  I got so that the carb would be low enough that a hole in the hood wouldn't be nessasary . The problem is there is a lower tab on the carb linkage, that the TV Cable attaches to, that has to be removed in order for the carb linkage to clear the valve cover. Now I more than likely could figure out some way to make the TV Cable to work if it wasn't for the fact that I've been secretly wanting to put a 4 or 5 speed transmission in "BUTRNUT" for a very long time anyway. Now I have a real excuse and now is when things start to get really interesting...that is... if you like putting puzzles together.

 Pictured above is the aluminum 82 Camaro 60 degree 4-speed bellhousing I  bought on E-Bay which will make it  easy to bolt a GM T5 onto my 2.8 V6.    

 

I'm just starting to study up on T5s... but as I understand it so far...one of the really neat things about T5 tranys is that  their  gear sets and tail assemblies  can be swapped...meaning that we can create a T5 to fit our needs.

In researching all this I found a post on the Chavette Forum about putting a 2.8V6 & T5 5 Speed into a 76-79 Chevette. The auther said that  he swapped a Mustang Tailshaft Housing onto a Camaro T5 Gear Box, and that the combination put the Shifter right up through the stock Chevette Shifter hole. This got me so excited that I spent months trying to find the right Mustang T5. What I should of done in the first place is check my 79 Chevette Factory Assembly Manual to discover that on 79 Chevettes the shifter holes are in different  locations between the automatic and and the two 4 speed stick shift transmissions ( long and short tailshaft ) that were avalible in 1979.  

Both of these interior shots are of 1979 Chevettes with 4-speeds. Please notice the different locations of thier shifters.   

Camaro T5 S10 Tailshaft Conversion

Identification Guide to T5 Transmissions

 

On top in the left pic, according to it's Tag Number "13-52-028", the silver T5 is a 1983 Camaro V8 "Close Ratio" T5 5 Speed. It is considered a "Close Ratio" because it has a 2.95 1st, 1.94 2nd, 1.34 3rd, 1.oo 4th, .73 5th (overdrive), and a 2.76 Reverse. The dark grey trany, pictured on the bottom of the pic on the left, with a Tag Number "13-52-018", is out of a 83-84  T5  four cylinder turbo Mustang,  Both are what is referred to as Non World Class T5s.

UPDATE AUGUST 31st 2009...I finally found the Mustang T5 I've been looking for on Craigslist for $50, so I'm not out a fortune if it dosen't work out. And guess what...after some paliminary measuring I've come to find out that theres no way that a Mustang T5 Tailshaft is going to work without some cutting and hacking that I don't really want to do. If "BUTRNUT" had been a stick shift car in the first place, with a long tailshaft 4-speed, then the Mustang Tailshaft might have worked pretty good...but  since shes' not...we have to keep looking for what will work with the least amount of cutting and hacking.   

UPDATE SEPT. 8th 2009...I found a fellow Chevette owner right here on Cardomain who has answered any question I've had about  which T5 trany will best fit in "BUTRNUT" behind a 2.8 V6. You can see for yourself right here...   Dominic's 1985 Chevette   

 

UPDATE SEPT. 28th 2009...I just had a rather enlightening conversation with a person who is very familiar with all years of Chevettes...specifically "what will fit in what" was the topic. And I have come to find out that when Chevrolet installted T5s in 84-86 Chevettes they apparentlly changed the conture of the Transmission Hump so that the wider T5 gear box would fit . So in order for a T5 Chevette Trans to fit in "BUTRNUT" it looks like we may have to do some "cutting & hacking & welding" or "wacking with a Big Hammer" whether we like it or not. OH WELL... I guess we'll see when we get there.

So the hunt is on for an 84-86 Chevette T5 with a Tag #1352-005. Once I find one I'll be able to combine it with my  83 Camaro T5  to create the T5 that I want, and it should look just like the one pictured below except it will have a Hurst Shifter .

NOT TO WORRY...FIGURING OUT HOW TO MAKE THINGS FIT IS HALF THE FUN WHEN YOU"RE BUILDING A CUSTOM CAR.

 

Other interesting T5 Swaps

If you compare the gear box on this Short Tailshaft 79 Chevette 4 -speed, pictured above, with the S10 & Mustang T5s pictured below, you can see why the later model Chevette transmission hump was changed just a little to make room for the T5s' larger and wider gear box.

 

 

 

UPDATE SEPT 30th 2009... Look what I found....it's an 1985 Chevette T5 5-speed with Tag #13-52-005 ...this we can work with.  It took a little internet searching on  Car-Part.com   but I finally found one of these "Hens' teeth" at B&R Auto Wrecking in Corvallis Oregon. Thanks again Julio.    

It will be a while yet before I  dive into the process of creating a "Close Ratio T5" for "BUTRNUT"...but when I do I'm going to make a new page on here and document the whole thing. I haven't had my hands inside a transmission since I rebuilt a T-10 4-speed for my 56 BelAir 2dr Hardtop in 1971...but I'm pretty sure this going tobe a similer experience. Just the same I'm going to take it slow and easy...do a lot of reading up on T5s...and scream for help if I need it.

UPDATE...Nov 7th 2009.."BUTRNUTs" HURST COMP-PLUS T5 Shifter has arrived and fits just fine . Combined with the Camaro Houndstooth Bucket Seats and Autometer Ultra-Lite Gauges, this is one little detail that will not only make driving "BUTRNUT" a whole lot more fun but will also help a lot towards making "BUTRNUTs" interior look like that of a very serious American Muscle Car...even if she is kind of little and only has 175HP.

Before I ordered "BUTRNUTs" HURST Shifter there was some question about would it fit or not....but when I compared the stock Camaro and Chevette Shifters side by side...they appear to be interchangable. And after I bolted on the new shifter...there's no problem...it's gonna work great.

 

 

These are the "before it was steam cleaned" pictures that Julio, at B&R Auto Wrecking, sent me so I could see what I was buying.

Interesting Fact... "ALL CHEVETTES" 1976-1987 whether an automatic, 4 or 5 speed,  all used the same Transmission Mount  Donut , and I'm pretty sure the same Trans Crossmember, . Which means that bolting a T5 into "BUTRNUT" should be just about that...a bolt in. ..maybe with a littlle massaging of the hump...but a bolt in just the same.

 

 

This changing to a 5-speed has a ripple effect and has brought up some new questions. Since "BUTRNUT" had an automatic I have to figure out some way to activate the new clutch...I've been thinking about whether I want to use the stock Chevette Cable Clutch arrangment ( and keep the Power Brake Booster with Corvette Master Cylinder that had planned on ) or use a Wilwood Triple Master Cylinder and Pedal set up which would totally eliminate the need for a power booster and porportioning valve. With this there are two Master Cylinders ( one each ) for the Front  and Rear Brakes and a Master Cylinder for a Hydraulic Clutch. The most important part here would be modifying the firewall and making sure it's reinforced properly...not an impossible task. I'm not sure yet whether I would want to use a McLeod Hydraulic Throwout Bearing or just set up a Clutch Fork with a Slave Cylinder.  This is going to require a lot more thought for a while yet. See page #3 for more info about "BUTRNUTs" Four Wheel Power Disk Brakes.  

Street Rod Brakes

UPDATE...Nov 18th 2009..The Wilwood/Tilton Pedal Mount Plate that I ordered from from Speedway arrived today and I must say I'm impressed...  this is a pretty hefty and stout piece of 3/16" Steel Plate. With this there's no question we'll able to create a mounting place for a new set of  Wilwood Brake and Clutch Pedals on "BUTRNUTs" firewall.  Once this is trimmed, and properly installed where it needs to go, mounting the pedals is just a matter of bolting things in and routing hydraulic lines.

 

Wilwood Pedals

UPDATE...November 23rd 2009... I've decided on the Wilwood Steel Pedals pictured above left and the Wilwood Master Cylinders pictured above right . I'll be getting them just as soon as my finances allow. I'm going to wait however until we get around to attaching the T5 to the 2.8 before I decide whether to use my Camaro Bellhousing and go with a McLeod Hydraulic Throwout Bearing or  go hunting for an S10 Bellhousing and Slave Cylinder like the one pictured a little further down.

 

 

Although I have decided to go Hydraulic... here we have more food for thought

If I had decided to use a set of stock Chevette Pedals this is one idea that I've been playing with...adapting a Mustang Clutch Cable and Mustang Clutch Fork to work with a GM Throwout Bearing on the T5. Sounds like it shouldn't be all that complicated...but there could be a problem mounting the Cable on or thru my 82 Camaro 4-speed Bellhousing...plus the pivot point for the Clutch Fork would have tobe moved.

 

Pictured above is an S10 Bellhousing that fits a 2.8 V6. It's normally set up to work with a "Push Type" Hydraulic Slave Cylinder. If a Mustang Clutch Fork wiould fit on this then a bracket to hold the cable in place is all that is needed. The other end of the Clutch Cable would need a clevis attached so it would attach to a slightly modified Clutch Pedal.

 

Pictured  above is one of many available Mustang Clutch Cable Adjusters. This mounts on the Firewall where the Clutch Cable goes thru and would be one of the main reasons, in my mind, for adapting a more heavy duty Mustang Clutch Cable. One of these adjusters makes it easy to set the feel of the clutch pedal right where you want it.

 

This Aluminum Flywheel is just one of the cool parts that I found for a GM 60 degree V6 at bmcautos.com

"BUTRNUTs" NOS Stereo

UPDATE March 10th 2009...I've been looking for one of these for a very long time and I finally found one on E-Bay. It's an NOS Chevette  Delco Am/Fm Stereo Cassette which wasn't avalible in a Chevette untill 1980. It will be replacing "BUTRNUTs""  Original Mono Am Radio....Now I know it dosen't have a "Disk Player" and it's really very "old tech", by todays standards,  but I don't want to mess with the stock look of the dash any more than I already have. And besides that I can always plug a Sirius Satilite Radio into the Cigar Lighter for long trips and such. I also have an NOS Heater Control Panel that will help give "BUTRNUTs"" dash that "detailed" look that we're goin for. Now I  need to find an NOS Rear Window De-Fogger Switch.

 

It's really nice to finally have a decent shop to work in. The shelves on the right in this picture hold all the NOS Chevette parts that I've spent the last few years collecting and also most of the parts I'll need to build a pretty nice 175HP Chevy 2.8 V6.

 Poor Little Chevy..surrounded by a bunch of MEAN, NASTY, & STINKY OLD MOPARS

 

 

I wish that "BUTRNUT" was the "ONE MILLIONTH CHEVETTE" but no such luck

 

In case you don't know by now

"BUTRNUT"..............................."POPSTOY"

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

This is my 48 Dodge 2dr Sedan which is affectionately know around our house as "OBEASTY" .
 

My Son, Steve Jr., owns this very nice 1977 Chrysler Cordoba ( Metalic Brown with Cream Interior ), which has just a little over 55,000 Original Miles on it...he liked mine so much he had to get one for himself. He also has a 1970 Dodge Dart Swinger with a 400HP 440 that so far has done a 14.3@101MPH in the quarter mile...not too bad for a first effort.  After doing a trade with his brother Ben...Steve Jr also now owns this 1971 Dodge Swinger                                                                          

UPDATE March 28th 2009  Steve Jr bought himself a real "Street Rod" project...something he's wanted for a very long time...a 1937 Ford. This is the 11th 1937 Ford  to be owned by a  member of our family since 1950. My Dad had one, I've had nine,  and now my Son has his first.

 

 

 

Pictured below is my Son Bens' 1969 Plymouth Sport Satellite. It's getting a fresh 330HP 383 that's waiting on an engine stand for it's new home. Ben also has a 1951 Dodge Wayfarer Convertible that's going to be his Resto/Street Rod. If you've never seen one of these before don't feel alone...Dodge only built 1002 of them in 1951. Ben has a 1972 Plymouth Valient Sedan, and a 1976 Dodge D100 Pickup for his daily drivers. 

 

 

Other cars we have include : 

a 1966 Chevelle Malibu Stationwagon (owned since 1982),

a 1937 Ford 1 1/2 ton DeLuxe Panel Delivery Truck (one of 192 131" WB Deluxe Panels that were built, owned since 1975)),

Ben and Steve Jr. did a trade...Ben now owns a 1936 Studebaker President 4dr Sedan.

a 1933 Chrysler Royal Eight 4dr Sedan (owned since 1983), a 1928 Model A Ford 2dr Sedan Body (owned since 1973) that one day will be a Chopped 28 Hi-Boy 2dr Sedan on 32 Rails powered by a 392 Hemi that I have for it, and last but not least..."BUTRNUT"... my 1979 Chevette 2dr Sedan (owned since 2000).

I've been enthralled with cars ever since my fourth grade teacher bought herself a brand new 57 Chevy 2dr Sedan. The impact that car made on me has stuck with me all these years. After that I was hooked on cars and have been actively playing with them since I bought my first one in January of 1965.. a month after my 17th birthday. It was a 1952 Chevy 4dr Sedan that cost me $20. My Dad and I fixed it up. I drove it for two years and then sold it for $150 when I bought my, first of four, 56 Chev Bel Air 2dr hdtps for $450. Boy are those days gone forever. Cars have provided my family and I with alot of fun over the years. And apparently just being around all these cars over the years has created a kind of contagious illness that has been passed on to my kids...for at our house we are all... with out a question... certifiably.."CAR CRAZY" .

 

AUGUST 31st 2009

Ben says "Hi" while visiting his 1936 Studebaker President Four Door Sedan 

 

 

 

Our 1933 Chrysler Royal Eight Four Door Sedan

 

 

It's buried and the flash didn't work at all but... if you look real close...you can see our 1937 Ford 1 1/2 Ton Deluxe Panel Delivery  

 

Ben says "Hi" again

 

Our 1966 Chevelle Malibu wagon... waiting its' turn..

 

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

A list of cars I've owned since January 1965 : ### = Currently owned

# 1 1952 Chevy 4dr Sedan, Paid $20 for it in January 1965 with money from my High School Paper Route. My Dad and I spent Three months preping it for paint did all the work in the street in front of our house. We painted it black at 1;am on a Saturday Night in the Seattle Transit Paint Shop where my Dad worked for 28 years.  This is one of those things that we can look back on now and laugh. Sold it in December 1966 for $150 after driving it for two years.

#2 1931 Model A Coupe Bought this in November 1966 for $125. It was all in pieces. Only had it about three months..Sold it for $150 with a Title because I had no time... I was going to Seattle CC taking the Auto Body and Fender class from 7:30am to 2:30pm and working the scound shift at Boeing Plant 2 from 3;30pm to Midnight Monday thru Friday.     Life????what Life???

#3 1956 Chevy Bel Air 2dr hdtp (Matador Red/ Red and White Interior) Paid $450 for it in December 1966. It had a 265 and three on the tree overdrive until I put a HURST Mistery Shifter in it. My Dad and I spent a couple of months of week ends getting the body ready for paint. Did all the work in the street in front of our house again. But this time when it was ready for paint my Dad drove it to work on a Friday so one of his friends at work could take it home to paint in his shop. I picked it up the following Monday after it had recieved the britest Matador Red Paint job I had ever seen. The kicker..the Enamal paint job cost me $65. Try to do that today. I only got to drive this one a couple of months before I enlisted in the Marines.

#4 1962 VW Beetle, Bought this $550 when I was stationed at the Naval Air Station just north of Memphis. Drove it to Cherry Point N.C. where I was stationed with the 2nd Marine Air Wing and had the privalage of keeping track of 13 KC-130 Transports. I was Honorably Discharged from the Marines, after serving 16 months, as an "only son" when my Dad passed away suddenly in August 1968. I drove the little Beetle all the way home to Seattle.Sold it for $400

#5 1966 Chevy Bel Air 2dr post  Bought this when I got home. It was that Silvery Blue all over which after a while I grew to dislike a lot for some reason. Paid $1200, It had a 283 and Three on the Tree. Only had it about six months and then traded it in on my 69 Malibu. What I should have done was drop in a new 427 crate motor and a Rock Chrusher 4-speed....I would of had a real Hot Rod.

#6 1969 Chevelle Malibu 2dr hdtp (Lemans Blue/Black interior) 300HP/350ci/ Heavy Duty 3 speed Factory Floor Shift, My first New Car. Got it in July 1969, a month after I started driving buses for Seattle Transit. The dealer gave me $1000 for trading in my BelAir so i only had finace $2700.....I was 21 and a half years old.

#7 1937 Ford 2dr Hump-Back Sedan (restorable)

#8 1937 Ford 4dr Covertible Sedan (parts car)

#9 1937 Ford 4dr Flat Back Sedan (V8 60. Washington Blue) (My first drivable really "Old Car" it was 33 yrs old and I turned 23yrs old in December 1970, Paid $420 for it. My first wife and I drove this one to San Francisco in 1972 for the Early Ford V8 Club Nationals in Santa Rosa Ca.) Traded it for a 1942 Ford Woody in 1973

#10 1956 Chevy Bel Air 2dr hdtp (Yellow/Green) Paid $450..Put a 292Ci Small Block and t-10 $-speed in it

#11 1951 Chevy Bel Air 2dr hdtp (Black) Daily Driver for a while

#12 1937 Ford Coupe(85HP) (Parts Car)

         #13 1937 Ford Sedan Delivery (A very restorable body)

#14 1937 Ford Phaeton (body parts)

#15 1937 Ford 2dr Hump Back (85HP full chassis)

   ###16 1928 Model A 2dr Sedan (body) The "Marysville Kid" will one day become a 6" Chopped 28 2dr Hi-Boy on 32 Rails with 392 Chrysler Hemi Power.

#17 1942 Ford Woody Stationwagon  Sold this one in 1976 for $1800 and used the money 45 minutes later to buy my 1936 Chevy 4dr.

#18 1937 Ford Rumble Seat Cabriolet (Original Steel Body) Paid $550 and sold it for $2500 in 1978. One of the ones I kick myself for selling. I should have kept it.

#19 1959 Bug Eye Sprite (Yellow)

#20 1967 MGB Roadster (Red)

#21  1968 MGB Roadster (Green)

#22  1941 Mercury 4dr Sedan (Green) Drove this one to San Francisco in 1973 for Andy Brizos Picnic in Castro Vally Ca.

#23 1956 Chevy Nomad (Green?White) Traded this for a 47 Ford Convert

   ###24 1937 Ford 1-1/2ton Panel Delivery Truck("KERRMIT" is one of only 192 DeLuxe Panel Trucks built on a 131" WB) Found in Pamona California while on vacation in 1975. Came home and sold my 1935 Harley for $435 so I could buy Kerrmit for $400. Brought him home on the biggest car trailer I could find in September 1975.

#25 1947 Ford Convertible

#26 1972 Chevy Vega GT Wagon (Red/Black Stripes) Daily Drver for 4 years 1973 to 1977 when I bought my 1977 Pontiac Astre Formula.

#27  1953 Chevy Bel Air 2dr post (Dark Green/Light Green)

#28 1936 Chevy 4dr Sedan (Tan/Brown) This had 54,000 Original Miles and new paint when I bought it. In the Spring of 1977 My Brother Inlaw and I spent 7 weeks turning it into a Street Rod. We put in a Chevy 350/350 Engine and Trans, a Dropped Front Axle, Maverick Rear Axle, American Daisy Mag Wheels. I Sold this one in April 1983 for $4000 so I could pay $3750 for my 1933 Chrysler Royal Eight 4dr Sedan

#29 1977 Pontiac Astre Formula Coupe (White/Black Interior, First Year Iron Duke 4-speed, bought new) This was my second New Car and Daily Driver from October 1977 to some time in 1981

#30 1928 Dodge Victory Six 4dr Sedan

#31 1966 Chevelle Malibu Convetible (Bronze)

#32 1966 Chevelle Malibu 2dr hdtp (white/parts)

#33 1966 Chevelle Malibu 2dr hdtp (Marina Blue /parts)

#34 1970 Chevy Stationwagon (396/parts)

#35 1969 Chevy Nova 4dr (Lemans Blue)

#36   1967 Cadillac Coupe DeVille (Turquise/White)

#37 1966 Chevelle Malibu 2dr hdtp (Turquise)Traded this one Title for Title for "OBEASTY" in the Spring of 1985

  ###38 1933 Chrysler Royal Eight 4dr Sedan ("PURRRCY" is a Resto-Rod in waiting )

  ###39 1948 Dodge 2dr Sedan ("OBEASTY" is our 440 Mopar Powered Street Rod )

#40 1962 Che vy Nova 2dr HT ( White/Red)

#41 1955 Metropolitan Coupe

#42 1962 Oldsmobile Starefire Coupe (Champayne Mist/White)

#43 1966 Chevy Nova 2dr Post ( White/Blue)

#44 1974 Ford Stationwagon (Brown) Had a Beautiful Wife and Four Kids at the time and really needed a Big Old Family Car Sold it to buy "MALYBOO" a much cooler Big Old Family Car.

   ###45 1966 Chevelle Stationwagon (White/Blue)("MALYBOO"Is waiting for a new engine and trany...maybe a 500" Caddy

#46 1956 Chevy Bel Air 2dr hdtp (Blue/White)

#47 1957 Chevy Bel Air Convertible (Yellow)

#48 1956 Chevy Bel Air 2dr hdtp (Turquise/White)

#49 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger ( White/White)

#50 1955 1st Series Chevy Suburban ( Green)

#51 1969 Dodge Coronet Stationwagon (Gold)

#52 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger (Red/Black)

#53 1977 Chrysler Cordoba ( Yellow/Tan Corinthian Leather) "BETSCY" my Daily Driver since 1991, she had gone193,000 miles and was still going strong when sold in the Spring of 2009, now livies in Illinois with her new owner who is giving her a complete overhaul..

  ###54 1979 Chevette "BUTRNUT". Currant Long Term Project that hopefully will be moving under it's own power by early 2011 may be sooner.

  ###55 1979 Chevette "POPSTOY". Current Daily Driver

###=Currently owned

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

 

You must use a browser with Java to hear this

GOD BLESS THE USA

SEMPER FI

 

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX