PAGE 1 -MY RED 89 MX6 GT -ENGINE AND PERFORMANCE MODS-
PAGE 2 -MY RED 89 MX6 GT -SUSPENSSION AND OTHER WORK-
PAGE 3 -MY RED 88 MX6 GT- 2006 AND UP-
PAGE 4 -MY RED 88 MX6 GT -2001 TO 2005-
PAGE 5 -1988 626 GT -MAZDA 666-
PAGE 6 -1988 626 GT -MAZDA 666.2-
PAGE 7 -MY 89 626 LX AUTO -WINTER CAR- 90 MX6 DX/GT (FOR SALE) / 93 KITTED PROBE GT (FOR SALE), ROBS CAR, DROPPED AND KITTED B2200 TO BE F2T'ed
PAGE 8 -SOME FLAME AND SKULL RALLY LIGHT PODS AND OTHER RANDOM PICS.
PAGE 9 -SHOP VISITORS AND CUSTOMERS RIDES.
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1-MY RED 89 MX6 GT:
April 2009.
The fuel lines for the xtra injectors and the fuel rail got upgraded from 5/16" to 3/8" hose with a 1/2" T going to the extra injectors and a 3/8" T between them.
The External 38mm waste gate, 1bar spring, old 88GT 16G housing to be chopped up and a 2.5" cut out pipe, electric cut out and tip.
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To be matted to a T3 5bolt housing with a whole cut for the waste gate and the existing 2.5" flexpipe and a 2.5" mandrel bent J pipe.
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Cut the O2 pipe and waste gate pipe from the 16G housing, the O2 pipe required quite a bit of porting on weld seems and pipe seems, then I cut a lip off a 2.5" beed roled SS pipe (it fit perfectly in the flange. The T3 waste gate hole and hole are much closer together then the 16G and the T3 waste gate hole will require porting to even come close to 30mm. To allow the gasket / flange to seal 30mm was as large as I could cut the waste gate hole, to transision between the flange and 1.7" + piping for the 1.5" waste gate I used a outer piece of a rear wheel barring.
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Before hacking up my down pipe or removing the stock T3 O2 housing I needed to relocate the dip stick and move the lower rad hose.
Cut and welded a stock coolant pipe in a few places, cut another one up to make an elbow and then powder coated them, along with a dip stick, tub and bracket.
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After alot of cuting, welding, measuring, test fitting and modification:
The new downpipe/O2 housing/External waste gate/exhaust cut out with flexpipe and 2 O2 sensor fitings (tight fit but with the waste gate and cut out removed it fit's inplace with the car 1.5' off the ground).
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Summer fall 2008:
Got some cheap used slicks to try and improve 1/4 mile times:
They needed 8" wide rims, finally found some at a a wreckers with the right bolt patern and an offset that works well, there aftermarket winter rims for a cherokee (Had to buy all 4):
Unfortunatly the tires are track/road course compound and arent soft enough, even with long burnouts and low pressure the car still spins into right into 3rd.
So if I ever take the car to a road course maybe I'll try them out. I have the other two 8" rims so I am keeping an eye out for a set of cheap/used drag slicks that will fit.
Front bumper view, burnout & road test:
Pumper cam
Here's a shot of the marks:
The intercooler:
The new intercooler is a treadstone, It's bar and plate with 2.5" tubes, the overall size is very close to the stock intercooler and routed the same way so it can be fitted easily and efficiently, it's rated to 500hpr.
The Treadstone is thicker but I still have enough space without cutting any bumper.
The outside of the tubes matches the stock cooler perfectly, the rad support can be cut inward but not outward.
Here is the treadstone bar and plate and a cheap tube and fin front mount thats twice the size but half as efficient.
Inter-cooler install:
There is plenty of room between the bumper and Intercooler:
Because of it's new location it is mostly covered by the bumper so to give it more air I made two plates to direct air from all bumper vents in the bumper support:
Then the rest of the piping and transferring the extra injectors and relocating the BOV.
Engine bay view:
Well the air flow meter on the pressure side of the turbo, idled, ran and accelerated surprisingly well, But at about 1/2-1 pound boost the flap couldn't decide to open or close and the car would buck, the car like I suspected didn't decelerate as well, it sorta coasted below 3000rpm, I put the BOV just before the AFM to help it close when letting of the gas, it worked and to well, unfortunately I have a Super Sequential Blow Off Valve and it really does open over and over and over again if you let of the gas and don't get back on it, You hear the BOV the first and sometimes the second time it opens, the rest are silent BUT NOT THE AIR FLOW METER FLAP, it slammed shut each time, quickely and loundly making a similar sound to a TURQUEY OR ONE OF THE THREE STOOGES, louder in fact then the BOV itself.
The final deciding factor was when I boosted 18 to 20 pounds and the AFM BLEW UP:
So it went back to it's original spot.
Catch can I made:
In preparation, despite the fact the head work was experimental and incomplete, the exhaust manifold is ported so time for the intake (Basically the same things I did for the 88GT intake ...):
I started with the Air flow meter, ported the openings a bit, smoothed out the angles, sharp edges and corners, then I removed a small bit that stops the inner flap from opening to the edge of the AFM's casing and shave the corner down to the now lower outer flap:
Next the Throttle body, I took the large upper flap and shaft from an Automatic TB and ported the smaller upper flap hole on a 5speed TB to fit them in:
Then the Dynamic chamber:
And the intake manifold:
These parts have been an on going project, lots of steps, and some screw ups.
The throttle body, to make sure it seals properly I put the flaps in and tapped everything but the areas at the back of each flap and super durable powder coated those spots.
The bearings and seals in the Throttle body need to be changed due to head and sand blasting, The donor throttle body I used the upper flap from was the perfect candidate:
And now the powder coating begins, it's been a long process, the first coat on the intake manifold fish eyed badly due to Rob using tire shine in the shop I sand blasted it all again.
The lettering on the dynamic chamber was cut out of tape and put down over polished metal, I planed on pulling it off after powder coating the color, but it took to many coats and well...
Everything was ok up to this point, when I get it completed I will take more shots.
Here are some brakets for the car:
During the finall days of working on these parts my parents cat I had been taking care of for 4 months got hit by a car.
Spanky
Miss ya budy.
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After the 2.5" exhaust install I still found the exhaust restrictive at the track so I made up this 1 7/9" exhaust dump and attached it at the down-pipe:
Sound clip/road test
So Friday sep/ 14th I received my Cat and upgraded the exhaust to 2.5"
The Old:
This is the first exhaust I welded up:
The donor exhaust came from a white 89 GT I bought in Toronto (Replacing Robs 88 GT, see below), The piping is 2.5" crush bent, it had a hollowed cat (w/ 1 7/8" flange after the down-pipe), the Muffler is a 2.5" Magnaflow, the same as the 3" on my 88 GT (page one) it sat way to low and showed signs of scrapping the road. the O2 housing wasn't bolted to the turbo when I got the car, but the piping was so tight that the manifold would have ripped apart from the head the first time the engine moved,It was one piece from the Cat back, I had to cut it to get it off the car, so I didn't put it on my red 89 GT until...:
I got some parts for the exhaust:
-A 2.5" I/D x 45" long Dynomax Thrush resonator:
-A 2.5" High flow Magnaflow Cat and a 2.5" Summit Racing flex pipe:
(Piping removed is on the left, Most of the exhaust.)
Here is the magnaflow muffler and some of the rear piping (two feet have already being cut off:
Work in progress:
I used a 90 MX6 Rob picked up, to mock up the exhaust on (it's white, I will add it to Robs cars Below once it's running).
More progress:
The Saab down-pipe I am running with the T3 is more then 2.3" I/D so I just had to join the 2.5" flex-pipe to that, After riping the Saab flex-pipe out of the way:
The Install:
I used the neighbor's hoist to install it, it started raining, I could lift the exhausts on the ground and get Jack stands under it alone but on the hoist I enlisted the help of Rob and Phil to hold it in place for me while I welded the support rods in..., the set- up fit perfectly:
I had Rob clean the down-pipe after we ripped off the flexpipe:
Before joining the down-pipe to flex-pipe and Phil (91 MX6 GT Auto owner/ budget builder running 14.3's 1/4 under 1000$ invested, car included):
The welds don't leak and the exhaust sits no lower then stock, after the ride home:
The black on the bumper is from the old set-up, it sat closer to the bumper:
A drive with the 2.5" exhaust install, quiet and spool at the end.
Taxi meter style LM1 wide-install:
T3 turbo installed with heat shield:
Ported and polished turbo housing:
Ported Manifold:
Ported exhaust housing:
Custom oil drain:
(cut from a piece of angle iron)
All the components cleaned and ready:
The install: (Last week I installed a T-bird turbo, it lasted 3 day's, I put the stock turbo back on and decided to put the T3 on the current engine, I ported the exhaust ports on the head (while still on the block) other than that the block is stock.
The exhaust: (it is still stock but the Saab downpipe and flexpipe fit like a glove)
T3 and car runing:
I've being preparing a motor/head, turbo and exhaust:
-The turbo is a T3 from a SAAB.
-The block was used in the 88GT with a T-bird last summer,
-I am reviving the Test head (ported out more then any other to test durability, it had the side effect of destroying stock turbos at anything over 15lbs of boost, it also ran 14.2 second 1/4 miles with stock everything and 3" exhaust).
-The exhaust is a 2.5" set-up off the white 89GT, it's stainless steel but stretched, not mandrel bent, it doesn't fit the car well in it's present state.
-The exhaust came with a Maganflow 2.5" muffler (the same style as the 3" on my 88GT), I ordered a 2.5" maganflow cat, a 2'5" thrush 44" resonator and 2.5" flex-pipe.
-I had a flywheel lightened to go with the engine.
The Head:
T3 uncleaned:
T3 being cleaned:
T3 cleaned:
Mazda waste-gate and fittings:
The lightened flywheel:
