TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page 1: Current mods and pictures - 02/01/2005
Page 2: Before and after shots - 06/23/2004
Page 3: Some semi-"glamour" shots with a friend - 07/15/2004
Page 4: DIY Write-up #1 - HIDs in High Beams (or Low Beams) - 06/04/2004
Page 5: DIY Write-up #2 - HIDs in Fog Lights - 01/24/2004
Page 6: DIY Write-up #3 - Fogs On With High Beams Mod/"Fix" - 07/27/2004
Page 7: DIY Write-up #4 - "TAIL LIGHT FAILURE" Mod/"Fix" - 01/02/2005
Page 8: DIY Write-up #5 - Valentine One (V1) "Stealth/Less Clutter" Hardwire Install - 01/30/05
Page 9: DIY write-up #6 - Remote Angel Eye Fade On/Off - 09/06/05
Page 10: DIY Write-up #7 - Aftermarket Sub and Amp Install into Stock System (09/21/05)
Page 11: DIY Write-up #8 - VIS Carbon Fiber Trunk Install (Requires Drilling - TO BE ADDED)
Page 12: DIY Write-up #9 - 1998-1999 Rear Headrests Install Into 1992+ E36 (TO BE ADDED)
Page 13: DIY Write-up #10 - UUC Clutch Pedal Bushing Install (TO BE ADDED)

*NOTE: All DIY Write-ups are provided here as a GUIDE. I will NOT be held responsible for any damage you may cause to your car by following these write-ups. In other words, you perform them at your own risk. BE CAREFUL!
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"TAIL LIGHT FAILURE" Mod/"Fix" - 01/02/2005

Hey all!

With the help of Jay Linton, I have FINALLY figured out a way to bypass my Check Control Module (CCM) so that I won't get that annoying "TAIL LIGHT FAILURE" anymore when I turn my parking lights on. This, I believe, is mainly for those that have aftermarket taillights or those that have messed up OBCs. Not sure why I got this error as it took about 3-4 months AFTER I got my aftermarket taillights for this to appear.

He emailed me this document (right-click, save as):

Taillight Error Fix

At any rate, here is my version of that with more pictures and using my method (I also did NOT fix the "BRAKE LIGHT FAILURE" since I didn't have it). This DIY can also be found here (by myself as well): Bimmerforums.com Link :D

Tools needed:

Screwdriver - flathead ("+" sign), #2
Scissors (or wire stripper)
Butt connectors x 2 (or solder)
Male connectors x 2 (or solder)
Female connectors x 2 (or solder)
Extra wire, ~1 ft. (optional)

Quick overview of procedure:

Remove driver underpanel
Remove CCM and plugs
Cut four wires on BLACK plug and splice each pair together
Cut two wires on WHITE plug and plug each into pair from BLACK plug
Put CCM, plugs, and underpanel back

Step 1:

Remove driver's underpanel. It's attached by three screws. Two on each side of the steering wheel and one beneath. The panel is semi-attached on the left side by the door. Slowly pull that piece OUTWARD AWAY from the steering wheel. See the three pictures below of each screw.

To the left and right of the steering wheel, respectively:

Underneath the dash, by the accelerator pedal:

Step 2:

Slowly pull the left side of this piece outward while pulling the entire unit toward the seat partially. Unplug the footwell light (if equipped) and the two other plugs (not sure what they're for - sensors, maybe?). Then pull the entire unit completely out and set it aside.

Step 3:

You'll now see the CCM in the upper left side of the lower dash. You'll only be able to see it if you crawl under there. The WHITE plug is the incoming signal while the BLACK plug is the outgoing signal. This is what you'll see (picture courtesy of JJL Customs):

Step 4:

At this point you have two choices:

A: Locate and cut the wires (listed below) for each respective plug. (Easier overall but it may be hard to find the wires.)

B: Remove the CCM by unscrewing the plastic screw BY HAND on the left side (when facing the CCM) and slowly lowering the left side of the module. Then pull the CCM towards the left once the CCM is past the screw. After doing this, pull each plug closer to you to gain access to the wires and then cut the appropriate wires listed below. It may be easier to unplug each plug by sliding the tops of the plugs away from each other. (More foolproof way but slightly more difficult - this is the method I used.)

This is the side of my CCM:

These are the wires to cut & splice together:

WHITE Plug -----> BLACK Plug

(Grey/Violet) -----> (Grey/Violet/Yellow & Grey/Green/Yellow) [DRIVER'S SIDE]

(Grey/Yellow) -----> (Grey/White/Yellow & Grey/Blue/Yellow) [PASSENGER'S SIDE]

The first color represents the main color of the wire while the second is the vertical stripe. If a third color is present, these are the spots on the wire. On the WHITE plug, you'll notice TWO similar Grey/Yellow wires but one is YELLOW/grey while the other is GREY/yellow. BE CAREFUL!!! I had already snipped the YELLOW/grey one for my "LOW BEAM FAILURE" fix so it wasn't an issue for me. :D

These are the pictures of the wires I cut on the BLACK plug:

Step 5:

I basically cut the wires and spliced each pair up to a longer, extension wire (for easier access) using butt connectors. Here's a picture:

Step 6:

I then cut each of the appropriate wires on the WHITE plug and crimped ONE MALE connector and ONE FEMALE connector on each of the wires. I then did the same, but OPPOSITE on the extension wires (to avoid plugging the wrong wires together). This is a close up as well as the entire wiring scheme:

Step 7:

If you removed the entire plug, plug each plug back in temporarily (you don't have to completely slide the plug back on) to check to see if the error still occurs. If you did NOT remove the plug, then simply turn the car to the "2" position and then turn the parking lights on. If you have NO error, you're good to go. ;)

Step 8:

That's it. Installation is reverse of removal. You can now enjoy your OBC without that damn message now.

Any questions? Post here or email me: clumpymold@sbcglobal.net OR clumpymold@gmail.com

- Curtis