First page: My 1989 Formula 350 TPI
Second Page: Formula L98 before taken apart.
Third page:Modifications to my
Formula & plans for Formula
Fourth: Friends cars and suchthings.
Fifth: My future parts.
Sixth:87-92 Firebird Trans-Ams,
GTA's and Formulas.
Seventh: My "To Do List".
Eigth: My '87 IROC-Z pics b4 and after
Nine: My Formula L98 motor apart.
Tenth: Stereo stuff.
Eleventh: '68 GTO stuff, father son project

Mods planned, written on 2-22-07

These are the mods I have planned for the '07 summer

I'm going to reuse the ported TPI intake it kicks ass, along with a double roller timing chain, my Sportsman II's, they are cast iron heads, angled plugs and I didn't care about weight, but just didn't want any head gasket problems, and these were for a great deal, they have 200cc runners, angled plugs; 2.02/1.60 manley race flo valves, the best valve job out of any aftermarket heads too, better than edelbrock's, AFRs, pro toplines, iron eagles, darts and any others.

They have a 5 angle valve job, and depending on where you do the valve job when building and assembling heads, if you have the valve and valve seats off the center position where factory heads have the valves, you can find the 20% power your losing, a lot of home work on heads can be done by people, when your redubilding them or going to different valves. I explain more on these heads farther down.

My factory L98 heads when I got done porting them and the valve job, I wanted with stainless 2.02/1.60's flowed 280 int/ 200 exh at .550 lift, not bad for stock heads, ported by myself, I know my shit, and demonstrated it to my shop, Ted Borowski's Race Enterprises, in Rockdale, they even offered me a job to port cylinder heads. But my accident fucked that all up. AND

I bought the sportsman II's because one of my L98 heads had core-shift, making it garbage, after 31 hours of porting work, I was pissed, and 550$ invested in them, the World's wre only 775$ shipped to my door. So be careful rebuilding any heads, and ask your self; "Is this really worth it, when there are so many better heads out there, I can order, for great prices." I also got these heads angle plugged with two patterns for valve covers, I already had these awesome center bolt ones, that have been resting in my basement for a while, I got for a great price, that look awesome, they have been ball milled on a CNC machine with flames, in them.

Besides the heads, I am want to use 1 3/4" supercompetition longtubes for torque and great flow. But I may use a friends ceramic coated edelbrocks first, to save money. Custom x-pipe modeled after a burns stainless steel version, mike's old bullet mufflers and some of the old piping, for a 2.5" exhaust which is all I need with this 350CI motor. Then 1.6 comp cam pro magnums I bought for 140$ from a friend that were used on a street car, that are in perfect shape and are designed to be used with guideplates; I'm going to use those rockers with the stock cam for some stock like testing I never did with my FORMULA 350. I did some stock like testing on my Iroc, but that's gone now.

I'm also going to use my TPIS airfoil, descreened MAF with removed inner cooling fins for 750 CFM, and a new custom CAI system, since I have a new larger, aluminum radiator and I have to make a new upper radiator hold down plate, the new CAI will look nicer, giving some more room also. Along with TB bypass and other mods, I had done a while ago.

I'm also doing Spohn Lower Control Arm relocators, with Lakewood Lower Control arms, and later on, a Lakewood panhard bar.

I know a lot about tuning TPI's working the timing, injector pressures and with only the alternator and water pump. Also
with underdrive pullies that are 51% crank and 23% alternator,
followed by: no more smog pump, A/C I removed in 2003 or powersteering, great for powersaving and no more parasitic losses.

I proved in my Iroc that they waste power, I used my Iroc to prove it with 156K on it. That power classified as a parasitic loss, can be used and the lost time with traction I gained was enough, until the trans broke, I was showing it and I got 25 mpg out of the car, with 47.5 psi of injector pressure. I ran the best with the old trans of 13.81 at 99 mph with Nitto's, the run the trans broke in was a 14.86 at 86 mph, my formula only ran a 14.86 at 93 mph with three gears, sorry to say but that sucked for my formula, I know more about tuning now and that Fully ported Iroc intake base and cleaned up plenum and runners did it for that car; with the headers, pressure regulator, airfoil and so many other tuning things, with a 2950 lb weight of the car, it ran well.

After that I will try the Holley Stealth Ram I have fully ported with the heads, the sportsman II's are a 1205 intake runner out of the box, with those 200cc runners, that intake will work great. I also ported the D port tops which go into the plenum, as Gm high tech recommended, no one else has done that as far as I know yet.

That alone will put the car to the low 13's. The horsepower will be as follows and these are conservative realistic ratings, mostly proven already, and these are with the TPI intake on top, later on, I'll also retard the cam 4* from straight up, better for top end:

The oil temp 35* cooler has been proven however;

-World sportsman II's, 15 hp-
-1.6 roller rockers, 35* cooler oil temperature, 12 horses-
-longtube 1 3/4 hooker headers, with duals and custom h-pipe, 25 horses-
-only alternator and water pump with underdrive pulleys, save 10hp to go to wheels-
-pressure regulator 10 hp-
-ported TPI intake base 20 horses-
-air foil TPIS showed it good for 3 hp on a TPI setup, in the lower rpm's because of smoother airflow in the lower rpm's

-cleaned MAF & K&N air filter with CAI 12 hp-
-160* thermo, 3 hp
-double roller timing chain, summit and most companies say its good for 10hp over a stock chain, but I'll just say its good for 5 hp-

This will be around 340 horses, but the MPH will show an approximate horsepower at the track.  With just the mods I did to my iroc on page 8, I was able to get it to 13.81 at 99 mph, with just Edelbrock shorties and a 3" single bullet muffler and dump, stock suspension, modded, but broke trans mission to see how it helped, and it was on street tires instead of drag radials.  I also had only the alt/water pump on the motor, bosch +4 plugs which TPIS showed are good for 6.6 hp, and MSD super conductor wires, stock ignition, TB bypass, airfoil, ran 16* base timing, had 47.6 psi of fuel pressure, and stock trans, with 156K miles on it, the car ran like a top, didn't leak oil, blow oil, got 25mpg in the city, and ran like a champ.  So I'm expecting my formula to run at around 103-104 mph with the TPI intake. 

I also am buying a B&M holeshot 2400 stall from a friend with some 24# injectors for 200$ and I'll put that in my firebird after I switch over to the HSR intake, but it would help with the TPI intake a lot, so I might put it in before that to take advantage of it, because TPI's make a lot of torque, I think I was only able to stall it out to 1250-1350 with stock suspension before, but now I'm going to have the good stuff in the car. I also have a 6 banger hood, with that scoop I'm going to put in the car, its on the first page. 

This was the stock one:

Once I use the Stealth ram intake, that will add 35 horse as proven in magazines over the TPI intake, with headers and rockers, more will be made, but I am also using much better heads than the L98's, so the results will be different, and I will ovbiously make more Hp than L98 heads. While the long tube headers and dual exhaust will also help, I'm expecting around 400 hp, and 410 lb-ft of torque.

Then I am going to put a 3500 stall in it for my nasty cam, with a 112 LSA and ground 4* advanced, it's .555int/.576exh gross lift, with the 1.6's. @ .006, it's 288int and 293 exh. at .050, 236 int/ 242 exh, these are with 1.5 rockers, so ovbiously more with the 1.6's. This cam in an Lt1 ran low 11's with stock heads, cam & intake with a 3000 stall. I will also put a chip from Ed Wright(maybe mispelled), he guarantees his chips, and knows his shit, with that, the formula I have, should run really great at the track and the street. But I'll also have to buy some after market roller lifters, the stock ones will destroy this cam instantly!

This is my cam card for the cam I'll put in first:

I am also going to put a 8 or 10 point cage in it depending on NHRA rules next year, in 2009, with racing seats, so I won't have any problems with safety I already learned the hard way once with out one, and five point seat harnesses. I am also going to put lakewood suspension in my out back.

TWIN SUPER CHARGER PROJECT

This was my first sketch of the project back in 01-28-05, when I was going to use a LT1 and no intercooler, and I was going to use the LT1 intake, but that was too much work, a remote coolant resevoir and drill and tap the intake for fittings for coolant and a distributor, would have costed too much, so a HSR is better for money and looks cooler and builds more torque.  I have a giant one, its 3" in and outlet, 4" thick, 12" high, and 30" long, and I'm going to use methanol injection also, so it will help.  But I only show it with the LT1 intake and tubing going on top to a flange for the throttle body, and accessories on the motor are the same.  But other than that its very similar, but I'll draw a fresh picture of it soon.

The efficiency of these super chargers is incredible because of it's helical design, that's why I decided to buy another, one, and design this setup for a grand! Prochargers are great, but EXPENSIVE!!! They only begin, as a positive roots supercharger design, the adiabatic efficiency with helical rotors, they have a at 94% efficiency, for a positive displacement supercharger, that kicks ass, and they don't get above 176* F, at 10 lbs of boost, so that's pretty efficient, with the huge intercooler and methanol injection I am going to use; and a stock shortblock for now, so. Then again they only use 2/3 of 1 hp while just driving, when under boost, it's more, but who cares, thats what boost is for!

The other amazing part of this supercharger is that, the temperature variation for an eaton M62 is less than 10 degrees from 4K to 14K, and all this information above and what I wrote here, is from Eaton.

Also. while the Mp-112 displaces 1.84 liters of air per revolution, the mp-62 diesplaces 1.00, so for two, 2.00 liters! So they are an Mp-114 instead of 112, when put together, and for there efficiency and for the price, 45$ for one, and 89$ for the other, it's far cheaper than anything else, while they are fairly easy to come by and I'm going to patent this, and any one can use this type of design with, M20, M45, M62, M90, or mP112. And they can be used for any C.I. basically. It will also save alot of money. I got my alcohol, NOS for 75$, it's a common unit, while the intercooler was 350$ and can take 40 lb's of boost!

Then my supercharger project will have to come together, I have two mp-62's that I will design flanges, a pulley system for about 9 lbs of boost, use this with a huge intercooler I have; it has 3" in/outlets, its 4" thick, 12" tall and 30" long and bar and plate designed good for up to 40 lbs of boost, even though I am only going to be pushing 10lbs of boost, the intercoolers are guaranteed for a bunch more.

Then I'll also use an alcohol injection system; those two together will keep the boost temps cool; good for a stock shortblock and safe; and 48-50 lb injectors for fuel delivery, and a boost pressure refrencer. I'll get that set up with the factory cam, then go to the nasty one. I already have the intercooler, super chargers, alcohol injection, and my Design I am in the process of patenting right now.

Everyone is going to be surprised, and have crazy looks, when under the hood, I am going to use two super chargers because I got them for the right prices, because these are the most efficient blowers from eaton they offer, they only use 2/3 of 1 hp when not under boost, and can go to 14,000 rpm, and the hottest outlet temperature is no higher than 175* so they are going to work great with the rest of my design, and maybe it will be together this year.

No one else has come up with a design just like this, that's why I'm going to patent it, then anyone that has eaton blowers can use them, on any size motor, any brand, and it's also cheaper than a procharger, and will work as good, and better and for any CI motor. Others have tried, but often move onto turbo's. I have read several books and talked to Engineers from Eaton about this, and say, that it should work great while some say, use a single M-90, Eaton engineers, don't recommend that idea, it can's support as much power.

Those that used Twin m-90's, were used on a 305, boat anchor motor, which blew the motor, because it wasn't built for this much boost, and they lunched the rods and pistons.

The reason I decided to design this setup, was because forced induction works great, and turbos are great, but too complicated. So why not use super chargers, they're reliable, and great. And I will make a kit that anyone can buy for what size superchargers they want to use. I will design different flanges, tubing setups, intercoolers, and all the components for anyone to use this as a cheaper setup for your own car. This will work great because superchargers are in tons of factory cars, especially the different brands, and My kid can be used on different brands so, it will be fantastic.

I'll first try this with the stock cam, 1/6 roller rockers, then HSR, and go from there.

I am going to use the old TPI ported intake on the LT1 I have with a distributor, instead of an OPTI and go from the carbed 305 boat anchor, to the LT1 in this '85 pontiac parisenne station wagon, with edelbrock headers, and a 3" catback with no cat since the emissions have changed since January for '95 and older vehicles, and use a turbo muffler on it, so it is managable, since my mom likes to drive it and turbos flow great. It will be a tow vehicle for my dads '68 GTO, to take to the track, and to move boats we have; check out the page 11 on my site. I am going to put this info for these projects on my site tomorrow at some point, I just thought I would put this info out there for everyone to have an idea, that I'm crazy.

This is the supercharger project explained better

Heres the setup explained for all to read and understand:

Well, I bought them used at a place called Pick-n-Pull in summit off 61st and 171(archer). I am designing this setup; and I didn't want a procharger because of the expense incurred, yeah they work great, but are too expensive for me at the age of 22, without a great job yet, when I pay for everything I want. So I figured that designing my own setup would be the best way, with the things I know, I have done a lot of reading, and even bought a book that explains how Eaton blowers work, and a lot of others about blown and turbo applications, and custom setups.

I'm designing my own flanges for the blowers boost side; I will attach the flanges with a bracket to hold the blowers above the heads, using the accesory bolt holes, and design the flanges in a manner that they won't interfere with the serpentine setup or anything else and since I'm designing this, it will work great; it will be a little bit loud from when they're making boost though.

I'm going to design a flange for bolting the throttle body to. Create a 4" plenum that will go into 2/3/4" steel tubes off the plenum into a Y that each tube will go to the inlet side of the blowers.

Then use 3" tubing to attach the outlets(boost sdie) of the blowers welded to their flanges I made, to come together from both blowers, then lead to the inlet side of the intercooler I am using, it's HUGE as I mentioned.

Then use a 3" tube, returning back to the TB side, going into the TB, where it would normally be; I will have a bolt on flange inlet attached to the HSR. Right when the tube goes out of the intercooler, I will set my alcohol injection up, so it will have time to spray the alcohol in, I may also try it where the return goes into the HSR; that may be more effective. I am also going to spray the outlet tubing black for releasing the heat better, that's proven, the inlet stuff, I may polish for nice looks, either way it will look crazy.

For the inlet side where the blowers are sucking air through their Y, into the small plenum, then TB. Then run that through the MAF sensor, then to my cold air injection, it will work really well, I may buy one of the after market TB's, they always help rather than hinder Blown applications.

For the pullies, I will design a great system, without having to go to huge serpentine pullies, with most of the pullet having belt on it, for the blowers, they won't be able to slip. This is going to work great, and look intimidating as the first one ever, no one has had or made a setup like this, I'm in the process of patenting it right now.

Because I'm making this setup, people can buy either; Mp-62's, mp-90's or mp-122's off lightnings, or Z06's etc. I'll let you all know when it's all finished. Any other questions?

Mods that I had done to my car before I took the motor apart

Ignition: MSD superconductor wires, Bosch+4's Accel cap and rotor, MSD blaster 2 coil. I also advanced my timing from 24* factory to 30*, this really makes a difference in pulling in third gear and up to the top end but I still had more to go.

This was when I ported the factories plenum opening

ASP racing underdrive pullies, 51% crank, 23% alternator, gates belt.
I'll get a picture of the factory one also, so you see the huge difference in diameters.

Custom cool air induction, fully modified maf, ported plenum, honed plenum exits and runners. Tpis airfoil. See Pictures.

EGR delete, Removed all a/c and heat components under the hood, check pictures. Then soon it will only be using the water pump, and alternator, I'm also removing the smog pump, so no more wasted power.

Cooling: Edelbrock water pump mr gasket 160* thermo, gates hoses, throttle body bypass. Soon the holley steath ram, ported to a 1205 intake gasket, and the tops are ported too, like Gm high tech recommended.

B&M trans super cooler, full competition shift kit, tci 1500 stall, severe duty u-joints, 3.27 posi 9-bolt, soon lakewood suspension parts out back, then 3.70, sun cut gears.

Subframe connectors, polygraphite bushings and trans mount, dual stage springs, and great shocks.
Grant steering wheel, infinity gold speakers, pioneer 4 channel amp, kenwood head, 300 watts rms.

Old plans for the Formula, and ported stock heads, before I realized CORE SHIFT, what all guys that port heads or rebuilds them fears.

This is what my car will be doing soon, hopefully by '08.

My current setup is going to start off with a fully ported old IROC TPI intake and adjustable pressure regulator, and auto meter fuel pressure gauge, then the stealth ram, with adjustable regulator, both will be using the TPIS air foil, along with the modified MAF; removed fins and screens, along with my custom cold air induction setup.

I'm going to use a double roller timing chain. I will reuse my stock roller lifters, they're in great shape, and will be replaced when I build up the bottom end in a year or two, followed by 7808-16 Comp pushrods and some Pro-magnum 1.6 RR I bought for 140$ from a friend off a street car.

For heads, I was originally going to use the L98 castiron stockers from my Formula, for two reasons, I wanted to show people what kind of work I can do as far as porting and where these castiron heads shine over there aluminum cousins and achieved 280/200 cfm at .550 lift, on the flow bench, and 5 angle valve job, but when one had core shift, after 31 hours of porting, and a 43K job offer from Ted Borowski's Race Enterprises, I wasted my time though.

I'll leave the porting tricks and tips here listed below though, from books and cylinder head specialists. This is work that should be done to L98 heads being ported or any castirons for that matter.

My port work consisted of portmatched intake runners to a 1205 and feathering the runners into the bowls, a full bowl blend on the intake and exhaust side. Along with moving the intake and exhaust out of the center of the seats, for improved low lift flow, where alot of people forget that a valve opens twice at low lift and only once to peak. Low lift flow numbers are what make a motor crisper, a better midrange and typically on the dyno, over a standard 3 angle valve job, a 5 angle off seat job comes in at around 20+ or more hp on average, thats why I was going that route, not many average gear heads know about this, but if your having a valve job done, it doesn't cost any extra. So don't get overly concerned about huge flow at x-lift, if they don't flow so hot at the .300-.400 range the motor will still make good hp on top, but if its a street car, it will rev slow then pick up alot, but the motor will run bad on the street with a bad idle, horrible mileage and becomes more of a strip car, negating the purpose of having a street car, drivability is # 1 in a street car, otherwise it won't be any fun. The heads also have new bronze liners(spiral inserts)these are the hot ticket for most heads because they help keep oil consumtion to near zero while keeping the valve lubricated very well, positive valve seals, enlarged spring pockets to 1.440 sping, cut for screw in 7/16" studs, and I will unshroud the valves, especially after putting larger valves in the motor, if you don't open up the combustion chamber you create a valve shrouding problem, hurting flow and swirl, so open up the chambers and polish them for a lower risk of detonation, and
So if your going to run larger than stock 1.95/1.55 valves make sure you have your heads sonic checked for adequate thickness, because if I would have requested this and found out ahead of time, I would have stuck with stock sized aftermarket valves. I'll also polish up the exhaust ports to help eliminate carbon sticking to the walls. I will also have the heads decked a minimum and with an .029" gasket it will be at about 10.1:1 compression. Yes they have alot more weight to them than the aluminum L98 heads, but the ports are in better locations while the small intake runner still becomes an issue, with serious power to be made on the vette heads. And for you non believers, that think a 170cc intake port is small, I have news for you, on a 427 small block in super chevy, the Edelbrock E-tecs with 11:1 compression, with a .decent cam, it made 512 Hp, and 570 lb-ft of torque. For roughly 700$ without springs, these heads would have been great at making good hp, until a problem arrized that happens to people some times, I just didn't expect it to happen to me. One head had already had all the intake valve seats oversize valve job cut in and clocked, while the other head was just beginning to get the work done. And guess what, I had what is called core-shift in the second head, and while the cutter was going, it went right into the water jacket, so this is why I've sidelined the L98 head project for right now, while I look for one for the right price. It wasn't because of anything I did, rather just because something that happens more in blocks, but one of my L98 heads had it, major bummer, especially after all of my work. My head guy at Ted Borowski's Race Enterprises; however will do all the same work for no extra money. I'll tell you its great being buddies with a top notch serious machine shop, It is also the same shop that did the machine work for my dads 461 poncho.

So as I was looking around for good used heads, I stumbled onto a Salee Chevy dealer in Michigan, and found a great deal on some heads. World sportsman II's part# 012150-2's for 780$ shipped to my door step, jegs or summit would have been at least 1015$ shipped, so the deal was amazing so I bought them. So although one of the factory heads was a wash, these heads will make more power across the board, especially with the work I'm going to do to them. Yes they are still cast iron, but they are setup to take .600 lift, are angle plug design and 72cc chambers, perfect for my blower setup later on, so I will run an .010 to .019 head gasket now to keep the compression higher, and will switch to a thicker one for the blowers.

More about World Sportsman II cylinder Heads

They consist of a 200cc intake runner, with smooth wall casting, extra thick decks, square exhaust ports, a better more efficient heart shaped combustion chamber that will be more efficient and helps promote swirl. These heads have 2.02/1.60 Manley race master valves with a 4.951 length for more lift without running into the locks. While these heads already have a 5 angle competition valve job making them better than the darts in that regard out of the box, they also utilize nitril seals, Manley 7* locks and retainers, 1.440" spring pockets, and a seat spring pressure o 125 lbs @1.825 installed height. They also came with 3/8" screw in studs and guide plates. The heck with vortec heads being a great deal, these heads are an incredible deal and on a 355 these heads utilizing a .460-.480 lift cam and 270ish duration 450 horses are no problem with no work done to them, while with work on alcohol these heads can make 900 horses along with the right porting work. And these heads also come with provisions for center bolt or perimiter valve colver bolts, and can be 50 state emissions legal if you drill the egr passage open and install the emissions sticker under your hood, but seeing that my Holley stealth ram isn't emissions legal I'm not worried about it. These heads can also have a spring pocket up to 1.550" if desired, they already have a 1.51" pocket and the springs it comes with, comp cams springs can accomodate up to .600" lift out of the box. They can also use valves up to a 2.100int/1.600exh or 2.080int/1.625exh valves if desired, they can be flat milled .040" and angle milled .175". They also recommend using headers designed for angle plugged heads, but there is an accel plug 5/8" size 276 or equivalent or 276S. These heads can also be drilled for steam holes on 400 engines with a 1014 felpro for the six 1/8" steam holes, but the holes closest to the intake ports must be drilled at a 30* angle toward the exhaust side, while the remaining three on the exhaust side are drilled straight down.

It is all of these advantages of these heads that I decided to buy these, they have alot of room to grow, and seeing that I will be driving this car alot and using two blowers later on, the cast iron breathern will take more abuse and be more durable, they do weigh in at 55 lbs a piece, much heavier than the stockers, but I will be doing some weight reduction on the car anyway.

Future plans for Sportsman II heads

After I use these heads for a little bit, I will port them to make them shine even more than they already will. I will also be doing some work to these heads. These runners on these heads are very nice out of the box, and with a out of box stock steathram, the ports would work very well, and they will mate up and seal without a problem. It would be nice to try them out of the box, but I want to do this work now, especially since I've already begun doing the work on my stealth ram intake, its coming really nice. The stealth ram definitely needed a port match, the ports are nice, but there are some rough castings that need smoothening and I'm also going to be rounding the top of the intake runners where it opens into the plenum. I wil be touching up a few spots in the plenum also, where it bolts to the runners of the intake, and smoothening some of the other rough spots on the intake near the throttle body.

These heads out of the box can have a slightly more improved intake to exhasut flow ratio, so to give them a more fair comparison to AFR's or Edelbrocks, I will also be doing a bowl blend on these heads and polishing the combustion chambers, and exhaust ports. The other nice thing about these heads is that all accessory bolt holes are drilled in the same place as chevys stockers, and they look very much like a stock head, and not many will be able to tell the difference between the two. So guys let me remind you that this setup is going to rock, I am going to say I will be making around the 500 horses on motor at the flywheel when this sucker is back together, with the nasty cam I have, once I have a tune for it too.

I was also planning on building a twin turbo IA2 motor, with twin turbo's, but my supercharger plan may make that plan a wash, with something better to run instead.

I am still going to buy my Victor jr's after this setup, and the blowers plan is completed, because with a fresh shortblock and balance to 8500, the stealth ram with victor jr's and a .650/.680 lift roller cam, afr rev kit, stud girdle, same 1.6RR and longtubes, this would be an easy 630-670 horse NA motor, with some force feeding, this motor could make 900+ reliably out of 365 cubes, and peak around 6800 rpm, to make it just barely streetable with the large cam, but it will scream. In my formula it would make it a great efi version of cheap street, and run mid 9's all day long and with the right blower combination on lower compression and a blower cam, it could run into the 7's, small blocks are great.

I am already thinking of running lunati h-beam pro mod rods, and one of there sledgehammer cranks, along with ROSS, SRP or Wiseco pistons that are dished for 8.0 or 8.5 to one compression with a zero deck on the block, to make it very efficient and a serious screamer. I just figure that for my first small block chevy that I'm building it better be a big block stomper, I'm alredy thinking of runnin a world, dart or gm rocket block, and possibly just building a 427 or 454 small block while I'm at it. I am going to have to put my name out there some how.

Hooker Super Competition 1 3/4" longtubes, coated, through a 2.5" custom x-pipe modeled after burns stainless steel's design, into 2.5" bullet mufflers and dumps about a foot or two afterward before the rear wheels with some stainless steel tips I picked up from a friend. This combination along with my cold air intake, and accel 300+ or Msd digital ignition and a few more things and a tune by Ed Wright from Fast Chip.

This combination should put the car into the mid 11's pretty easily if not better with some more weight reduction and the 3.70:1 rear end gears, I'm working on getting now, from a friend that works for motive gear for 200$. I will also pick up a TCI ultimate street fighter 3000 stall converter that will flash between 32-3400 rpm.

I'll also toss the factory damper in favor of the TCI Rattler harmonic absorber.

These were my orignial plans, that will still happen, but in a little while longer, this was planned in summer og '03.

Edelbrock Victor Jr. 23* heads, out of the box. Hooker Super competition longtube headers. Custom exhaust with 3" x-pipe(modeled after the burns stainless versions), Dynomax bullet mufflers, and dumps before the axle, possibly off to side if ground clearance provides.

I will be leaving my factory L98 shortblock the way it is for now, as it is in astounding shape and in two years or so, I'll rebuild it, and offset grind the crank, and run a longer forged rod to achieve around 365-370 cubes instead of the usual 355, with just a .030 over bore. I am doing this because I am going to leave the car MAF sensored, and any increase in airflow will make the system less efficient at making big power. Eventually I'll probably make a switch to a Accel/DFI setup or F.A.S.T. for even more power and easy tuning ability.

With the blowers and nitrous and fresh/programmed eprom and dyno tune. With this kind of improvement in hp and torque, the car when hooking should run low 10's, when I get to the 3200 lb area, as its at 3390 right now, 3550 with me, and a 1/4 tank of gas. With the other setup I mentioned, this would really be killer.

I will also build up my current th700r4(only has 20,000 miles on it) with the available mods from TCI, and eventually buy a transmission from BTE racing, they have 700r4s that can take over 600 horses, and run 10.20s in 3500 lb cars, thats serious if you ask me. And I'll put in a TCI Flexplate that is SFI approved.

I will also be upgrading all the rear suspension, and probably add some drag shocks to help promote weight transfer, after the motor and drivetrain is finished, so I can get that hp and torque to the ground.

I'll install a driveshaft loop, and 8 point roll cage, along with racing seats for weightsavings, and 5 point racing harness's for NHRA safety requirements.

I'll also be changing the hood to clear my new intake if it doesn't clear, but it will definitelly have to go when the blower setup is ready to go, as the stocker won't do unless I cut it up, which isn't going to happen, and will never clear the tubing for the blowers and throttle body.

More to come!