First page: My 1989 Formula 350 TPI
Second Page: Formula L98 before taken apart.
Third page:Modifications & plans for my Formula
Fourth: Friends cars and suchthings.
Fifth: My future parts.
Sixth:87-92 Firebird Trans-Ams,
GTA's and Formulas.
Seventh: My "To Do List".
Eigth: My '87 IROC-Z pics b4 and after
Nine: My Formula L98 motor apart.
Tenth: Stereo stuff.
Eleventh: '68 GTO stuff, father son project

This is my dad's '68 GTO page I made for him http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2791673

I am also on my space as www.myspace.com/cronsformula/

And my car club is at www.v8havoc.com were looking for more members!

This was the article, the second week of April, Our father son, project, that was of my dad's '68 GTO. It would have been nice, if they put it in color, they did other car of the weeks, in color, but ours, they didn't, go to page 11 for the real color. It's awesome, check it out.

                                     

This is my formula with the 6 cylinder hood on it, and the scoop!  The '79 T/A scoop is 5" tall!

I wrapped some heat proof tape over the upper radiator hose, to keep the heat out of the CAI for the scoop.  I had to relocate the MAF to the drivers side, also.

 

This is when I was modifying my 6 banger hood, I started by finishing the surface, priming and painting it black, this is a rough coat, so I can put in the Scoop, then I'll paint it again.

 

 

This was just before I put it on the car.   Below is when I cut the inner part of the hoods webing.

I put some black '91 GTA rims on my bird with Fireston tires up front, their indy profile, along with Nitto 555r drag radials out back, it runs and hooks amazing with my rear suspension, its sweet!

I left the hood up a little with a bungee cord as an extra safety caution, until I put the other hood on the car, with the scoop.

 

 

This is my HSR intake swap. I also shitched the head gaskets to some thinner Head gaskets for more compression, and this motor screams from 3500-6000 rom now, its crazy fast too!  I an going to put in a 3000 stall next, because that will make it a hell of a lot faster than the 2400 stall.  Although it does stall out to about 1750 RPM now, while the TPI intake I had stalled to 1500 and broke the tires loose.  I run 14* of timing for now, and 38 PSI of fuel pressure, because a dude in gm high tech ran that setup and made 329 rear wheel horse power, so I cloned it, lol.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is my boxed in panhard bar, I took my old one from my iroc-z, cut the ends off of it, and welded it to my firebirds, so its boxed in now, so as good as an aftermarket one, I'm priming and painting it now.

This my finally, fully ported HSR, I just finished up with the cartridge rolls the other day, so its ready to go into my formula, with some FORD 24# SVO injectors.

Here is the engine finished for whats under the hood now as of 11-01-08, I just need to put that HSR intake on, and other hood next year and retard the cam 8* from what its at now.  I have my 2400 stall in it now.

       

I removed the rear spoiler the other day, it weighs about 30 lbs, I have a '91s to replace it thats I think about 8 or 9 lbs.  I bought it at Pick-N-Pull too for $12.43 everything there on half off sales is a deal and a half.

Here's my new spoiler from a 91 firebird, its a lot  and now on the car as of 11-19-08.

 

Now the rear suspension is all done as of 10-31-08!  IT only took me like forever, because those lousy bolts were froze into those bushings.  I cut the both sides of the passenger sides bushing; then only one part of the drivers, then used an impact hammer to push it out.  I had to cut part of the SPOHN LCAR's where they were hitting the shock mount, that way the bolt would fit, otherwise it wouldn't.  I called and spoke to a tech guy at spohn, and he said they're all the same, you may need to trim it some, so I did, and then welded it to the rear end, he said they help a lot, in my video, formula 350 beast, when I was on the foot brake, and touched the accelerator just a bit, it lifted the rear of the car 2" so it does make the tires dig into the ground, it just barely made the rear tires barely start to slip when I got off the gas. 

                      Here it is:

Heres the passenger and drivers side, I kept the sway bar for later on, if I do change my mind.

 

The old sway bar links and bolts did break though, but thats 20 years on them, so oh well.

                                   

Here's the exhaust finished under the front of the car.

 

Heres the side of the collectors: on the drvers and passengers side

 

This is a shot of it from the rear when the cars down on the ground.  It looks like its not centered, but thats how it goes when you have a 9-bolt, its not centered in the rearend. 

                                 

I spoke to a couple tech guys from holley, working for the hooker branch, but they were no good.  So I finally talked to one, his named was Darrel Cook, he's a great guy, and I'll endorse hooker products more now, but they could still be better, more showy, but you get what you pay for.  I have my radiator hold down painted and I also painted my A/C block off to match, it looks great.  

 This was the drivers side, I was still finishing some things, putting in the oil pressure sensor and putting the motor mount bolts in, and putting the belt back on the alt/watwerpump, my setup is trick, and now the fans are done, I'll post some pics of that later too.

   

This is under the car seeing the nice new headers.  The exhaust is waiting for me to put it back up on the headers.  That lube on the steering is from over the 125,301 miles it has on it.  But she runs great and like a charm!  The first owner put 13,000 miles on her, then the 2nd put 90,000 on her, then the next two, only put  the next 24,000, and I only put about 1500 on her, before I took her off the road to make go faster!

                               

This was this week 10-20-08 when I first had the headers in and almost finished, this is the passengers side

I finally found this picture a few days ago, around 10-5-08 and this is my twin super charger setup I talk about on page 3, I planned it when I was going to modify a LT1 intake for use with a distributor and thread and tap the intake for tubes for the coolant, and a remote thermostat housing, but that costs too much money, and they then came out with the HSR I have now.  And I didn't know I was going to use a Intercooler in this photo, so I didn't route it for the plumbing, but I'll sketch a new one soon, but this was what I drew on 1-28-05 so...

                                         

Here is my finished radiator holdown and you see it in other pictures, it looks great, the paint I bought from dupli color, makes it look similar to original paint!  U can also see my new finished CAI

 

 

 This was 9-27/28-08 when I finished making my upper radiator hold down. This was when I first was making my new radiator hold down, because the original plastic one was too small.  The original plastic end tank radiator ones suck!  The one I had in my iroc broke on the drivers side front tank, so I used my formula's and it broke in the same place!  I used a lifetime warranty one from autozone that was a brass tanks with copper core, and it was great for $119.50, but they don't carry them anymore.  So I bought the biggest I could fit in my formula or 3rd gen f-body for a pretty good price, much cheaper than a small fortune for the perma cools, and it works just as well.  I used a 24"x12" piece of 22 gauge aluminum, and cut it in two pieces, and rivetted it together, drilled the holes for the front 4 bolts, and laid it in place, then used a pipe to role it over to the top edge of the radiator.  Here was as I was assemabling it at first.

This was when I had first rolled the back edge over the radiator.

This was after I Installed the fans.

   

 This is when I got the fans attached to the hold down, basically finished.  I went from the fans up to the hold down, and took a 3" wide piece of the aluminum, and went down to the fan upper bolt hole, and cut the metal into a triangle, so its more nice looking, lol.  So almost all finished.

 

This is a closer shot.

 

Here's the hold mostly finished, I might add some felt to it so it doesn't scratch the surface under the hood, and clear coat it so it won't get dirty and is easier to clean off.  I just polished it lightly, and may a little more before I clear coat it.

   

 I started making my new CAI a few weeks ago, because of my new radiator being so big, this setup is a little smaller, instead of the firebird setup for the throttle body, its too long, so I used the camaro's, with a 3" mandrel bent pipe that goes over to the passenger fender for the K&N.  Because its a little shorter in length, it doesn't look like it, but its almost an inch shorter in length.  But there's just enough for my radiator clearance.  Check it out.

Here's when I started laying out some rough parts.

 

This is finished first setup, just not painted.

This is when I first had it in place.

This is when I put my plastic cover over my air filter, I had used this on my original CAI setup.  I may add some more plastic around where the tubes enter, so it will only suck cold air from the fender well.  I may see if I have enough room to even run a tube into the fender well, and have the filter under its edge, similar to a 4tg gens moroso CAI.

 

I am going to run my car with the stock stall, and my modified TPI intake, and all its other mods right now, and then maybe I'll put the stall in.  But I may just wait till I have the cam 4* retarded from straight up, and the HSR on the motor, then that should help quite a bit.  And then I'll add the 24# injectors to the motor.  But TPIS has found the 22lb/hr rochester or Bosch injectors to be good up to about 450 hp, but I'll see, I may get a mide band O2 sensor setup, I already welded a spare bung in the passenger long tube header collector s-bend, so I'll see what happens when the time comes.

This was Labor September first 2008

This was the first day the cars been washed in a little over three years, it has been under a cover the whole time though.

 

                                   

Heres the nice dual exhaust, theres a tad over 4" of ground clearance, which, is about the same for the header collectors, so you can't have much more clearance if you want to run long tube exhaust.  The exhaust cost me $500 for the headers, I bought them from summit racing, but the first three pairs of the Hooker supercompetition's were crappy or didn't fit right, so I have the fourth set in the car now.  I complained and got $150 off of them.  I put $177.98 into the exhaust.  I used the Hedman s-bends, going into a summit H-pipe kit, I'll go with a 3" x-pipe later, the h-pipe still adds more torque and power while quieting it down slightly, mentioned below.  Then I am running 35.25" of tubing into 2.5" bullets, then the dumps as you can see below, Im still trying to get the tips just perfect, its almost perfect, but the left tip and get moved slightly.  It sounds great, and everyone will see it, it looks cool, and as soon as I get the suspension done, you'll notice, its no stock car, it already sounds great in the videos I put up, some oil in the cylinders is still burning out, so thats why theres a tad of smoke.  But I can't wait to take it back out on the road next year!

                                 

All this new info is as of July of 2008, after I was done working at Caterpillar in Joliet, Illinois, I finally had time to give some TLC back to my formula 350. So here she is!

I had her on the side of the house on these large Craftsman Jackstands that can get I believe if I recall it right, 18"-19" high, and are good for 3000lbs a piece. 

This is where I did most of the welding, as I was putting my exhaust together.  This is a flux core welder my uncle gave me, because he bought a better one, it doesn't weld that great because its a flux core welder, but its good enough for basic stuff.  I want a better MillerMaic, Miller made this one too, but its nothing near the same quality of the expensive units, but fine for exhaust work.

 

These are my raw Hooker Super Competition Long Tubes, they're the 1 3/4" primary, 3" collectors. They were quite loud at 112-114 db's while it was idling. And a side shot.

 

These are my Heddman S-Bend extensions, I had made some of my own versions, I used the old exhaust parts from a friend of mine, but these wound up being better, because they actually go 5 1/2" from the center of the collector, to the center of the extension, so they wound up being better for this application, because these third gen f-body sub frames are a b****!

 

This was my welder next to the car, when I needed to tack the h-pipe together, I used summits 2 1/2" kit. I could have used a x-pipe kit, but for the extra money involved, a h-pipes just fine, and for now, all I need is a 2.5" exhaust, when I go to 3" then I'll go for the x-pipe.

 

Heres the H-pipe tacked into place. With it attached and running the noise drops to 106-109 db's, depending on the idle.

 

 

This was right before I started to weld the H-pipe together.

 

Heres the pipe welded together and painted with Duplikolors high temp, ceramic paint, I believe it's good to 1200*

 

I welded the 38" of 2.5" aluminized steel pipe to the 2.5" bullet mufflers and 6.5" of dump's I to the mufflers.

 

This was after I installed the H-pipe to the headers, after I had it painted. I know it looks crooked, but thats the way it is in a third gen, the subframes aren't the same, the passenger side can have a pipe going relatively straight back with no s-bend, but the drivers side needs one, because the collectors dumping basically right into the subframe, which is no good, so s-bends are a must, and they have a 3"-2.5" collector adaptor built in, so it saves some money also. With the engine running and idling, its 104-109 db's, a few feet back it drops to 98-100 db's and while you rev the motor to about 5 grand, it goes to 117-119 db's.

 

These are various shots of the exhaust finished, I know the rear end is kinda rusty, I actually ground off the rust, primed and painted it after I finished the exhaust, I'll put some photos of that below these, it looks so much better. Then I get to prime and paint the subframe connectors, they were installed from a previous owner years ago, but not painted, and I'm just doing it now, so it will be out of the way for years to come.

 

 

 

Heres the exhaust a better direct shot from behind the car.

 

Heres the rear end, after I used my die grinder and a wire wheel to remove the surface rust, it wasn't bad, just over the last 5 years of it being under a cover, it had some mild rust on it, nothing an hour of grinding didn't take care of. I know it looks like I built the exhaust wrong, but the 9bolt borg warner rearend, doesn't have the housing in the center of the axle, but slightly offset to the left, making it look like the exhaust is off. This offset helps make the rear end stronger, while theres quite a bit more meat to the pumpkin than a ten bolts, and the pinion is slightly lower on the ring gear, rather than straight in to touching it, also making it stronger holding up to more abuse; the rear end doesn't flex as much as the 1982-2002 ten bolts do, and has been shown to hold up to at least 855 lb-ft to 900+ HP of abuse. The rear end, is basically like a ford 9" or 8.8 or even a mopar 8 3/4" or 9" setup, so its much stronger, it just takes a smidgen more power to drive, but not enough to worry about.

 

 

And heres the rear end all primed. I used cardboard to cover the exhaust, undercarriage and duct tape to cover the service brake lines, it worked well too.

 

 

Heres the precious 9 bolt, lol, all painted and ready for rear suspension goodies!

Closer

 

Heres the hood of a '84 firebird, I picked up for $23.48 at Pick-N-Pull on the half off sale. The car was a convertible 6 banger, but the owner put a gm goodwrench crate motor 350 in it, just a flat tappet motor, so it was done a while ago, but it was missing the a/c and a lot of wiring wasn't connected to it. The hood was in pretty good shape, no real damage, and only minor surface rust, so I already primed the hood, I'll add a pic of it soon. But I'll add a '79 T/A scoop to the hood to clear my holley stealth ram intake, because the stock hood is too small, unless you chop it up, it won't clear, and I'm not doing that to my factory hood, so this other one, I'll be glad too.

This is the hood by itself

 

Here's the hood with the scoop.

 

It's going to be this 6-banger, flat hood with this scoop on it. I am going to use this 5" tall, shaker hood scoop from Glass Tek out of plainfield illinois. There at www.glasstek.com They have some bad ass shit, we have there hood on my dad's GTO, Check it out.

These are the side view, the side most people will see when driving. It's the same scoop they used on the Bandit car, but this one is 5" tall, and fiberglass, so light weight and more kick ass!

 

This is the bottom, and the back view, what the driver will see.

 

This is the original scoop on a '79 T/A, so you can see the example of it, I'll have it mounted simlar on my car, but it may have to be further to the rear of the car, or closer to the front end, depending on how I want to set it up, but I'll make it as close to replicate the stock '79's look on my third gen.

 

Everything below this point is from 2007!

This was september 28th. All I have left is too make the upper radiator hold down, the original is too small; then run the switch in the interior for the fans.

 

 

 

This was when I had the hood touching down, but not closed, it was next to my parents house.

 

This was my motor, after 4 years, that it was actually able to run! It did too.

 

All I had to do was the usual timing adjustment when you first fire it up, here I was adjusting the timing.

 

Here's me, glad the thing ran after 4 years, all I have to do know is adjust the valves.

 

Here I was moving it in the driveway.

 

I was so happy, after four years and all my hard work, it's running!

 

 

Today 9-7-07 I put my Bosch plugs in my Sportsman II cylinder heads, since my heads are angle plugged, there is a bunch of clearance for the plugs. The pics start from the front, to the back of the head on both sides.

These shots are on the drivers side.

 

This is the passenger side

 

This one is a whole shot of the passenger side

 

I forget what date this was, but this was when I cut the U-channels off the universal radiator I bought from summit racing. There was a leak in the core though, but I got a replacement, it was undented and unleaking, and it works!

 

Today 8-26-07, I got my starter installed, I just slipped the starter in where the #8 pipe slip's out, it slips right in, then I put the bolts in. I also moved the brake lines more out of the way of the primaries. I also put in my oil pressure sensor switch, made sure the wires were out of the way, so they wouldn't burn. I moved the one fan switch wire up to the top, so that I can set it into the car on a switch to turn the fans on and off. Then on the passenger side, I put in my knock sensor into that cylinder head, instead of the passenger side of the block since the #6 primary is right in the way. I also put anti-seize on the bolts.

So now all I have left, is to wire the starter, wire the two fan switch wires to the two-way switch in the car, put in the radiator, get a battery again, and put some fresh fuel in the car, and I'll video tape the car's first start in four years.

This is the view of the headers from below. I have 5" of ground clearance before the lowest point, the collector rings would hit the ground. I also have 5" of room from the top of the front tires to the bottom of the front fenders.

This was when the car was on the jack stands still, this helps you be able to put the headers in, without a lift of some type.

 

This one is when the car was on the ground.

 

Heres each side of the headers, the passenger side doesn't have the #8 tube in yet, I will once I have the starter wired. I Then I am going to wrap my starter wires in heat protection Taylor Fire protection, so I don't burn it up, and it's safer.

 

And heres the motor with the headers installed.

 

This was 8-13-07 when I finally had some more time, when my leg was better, after I had those 2" and 2 1/4" screws taken out and I put on the runners for the intake, then the plenum, then the PCV valves in the valve covers, vacuum hoses, and most of the things under the hood. All I have left to do now, is get a replacement gasket for the TB FORMULA cover instead of the TPI cover, I have; then the radiator, and headers, CAI and MAF, plugs and wires, then the battery and she'll be ready to run. And yes, I did prime the motorfor about 10 minutes and rotated it to get the bearings lubed up, so by this friday, I hope it will be running and it should be.

This is the motor with almost everything done to this point by 8-13-07

 

 

 

 

This was when I first had the runners on

 

This was just a shot in front of the car, to see the progress I've made so far.

 

This ws after I had the Plenum on, the pic of this plenum up close, is just to show that I ported it, I did max port this intake base and I ported this plenum back in 2004, it was originally on my IROC-Z, that's no more. since I was using '86 and older heads, with the old more straight up and down bolt holes, I did have to do some machining on the intake base, so that the center two would go into the heads ok. I bought these World Sportsman II heads for a great price, so I decided to simply do some machining to make this base work with these heads, since I ported the base, I wanted to try it out with these heads. This intake base has been port matched to the standard 1205 felpro gasket, the cleaned up plenum works great too, while I also bought a TPIS Airfoil, which is good for 36 CFM more, although you don't really need it with the TPI intake setup, it didn't hurt in my IROC; so I put it in this Throttle body too.

 

This was a close up shot of the cleaned up Plenum, it's easy not hard to tell I cleaned it up. The base had a lot of extra casting material left, so I got rid of it, there was a ton in the base, if you look inside one, you'll see it; that's why if you don't think it helps, it will for sure. This porting job I did on this base, makes it perform more like a edelbrock or SDPC base.

 

This was today 8-4-07, I have done a few things, but I was more concerned with getting that '82 mercedes taken care of, puting the transmission back in and what not. But that jobs all done, and I'm done with summer school, I got B's in both my engine rebuilding class and my Automatic transmission class. So I have the TPI intake base on, the '91 formula I took it off, the one I had ported and had on my iroc is on it, and I installed the coil, thermostat and housing, and the CTS.

You can see the base, that in the center two bolts, on both sides, I did some machining to remove the material, on the '87 up heads. I'm kick ass World Sportsman II heads, and the bolt pattern is more the same 23* angle, so some material had to be removed, you can see if you look.

 

 

 

This was when I was turning the motor, bringing it up to TDC, for when I put the distributor back in.

 

This was 8-4-07 when I checked the headers bolt holes, some I need to clean, because they did a shitty job of drilling a clean hole, I had one of the old L98 heads stil, the one with core shift is gone, so I decided to test it. The main reason was because the heads I have on the motor now, have a 1/2 NPT fitting for the Knock Sensor and Plug. So I decided to check and see if the headers would fit, the original size was a 3/8 NPT. As you can see theres enough clearance. I am on my fourth set of headers now, by 8-21-07 and I have them in the car now, but I had to do a lot of removing of parts. I had to take my knock sensor and relocate it to the passenger cylinder head, I have no fan switches so thats good, then on the drivers side, I had to take the oil cooler's sandwhich out from where it is in between the filter and engine block, and the two tubes that come out of it, were hitting the drivers side header primaries, so that had to go, along with the oil cooler's metal lines, and I have to get two new bolts for where the filter goes to the block, because they are in the way of letting the oil filter go all the way onto the filter block. I will also hopefully be able to use the factory starter, because it's brand new.

 

This was today, 6-1-07, when I got the timing cover and damper back on, soon it will be running again, YEAH!!!

 

This one's a side shot, now some more!

 

Heres the motor, when it's sitting,

 

This was when I was had the roller rockers on. I did this
6-23/24/25-07

 

 

This was when I had the valve covers, the billet specialties, ballmilled, flaming ones, they're sweet, I got them for a great deal. I also had the Edelbrock water pump back on. I sand blasted it and also painted the back waterpump seal cover. This was 6-29-07

 

Here was when I got the belt on 7-1-07. I just put the LT1 Intake I had on top of the valley, to make sure no bugs or anything go into the valley when I was doing the belt setup. I am selling it too, if anyone is interested, theres nothing wrong with it, it comes with the rails.

 

 

Today was 5-30-07, I put the camshaft back in, used a cloyes 9-way adjustable timing chain, and advanced the stock cam 4*, chris from TPIS told me that it would take the torque up to 430-450 lb-ft of torque. With the stuff, I'm doing, this thing is going to have a 400 ci, pontiac motors torque. I can't wait to take it out to the track again, with some tuning, this thing is going to run great. I'm going to polish the combustion chambers too, so that will also help some. Then I'm going to rework the heads later on, after I try them out. They should add some HP also.

This was today 5-28-07, I was working on my Formula again, yes! I removed the power steering gear, and put in the manual flaming rivers gear. I got it for a bargain, $250! I like taking off the acessories off the motor, to put a little more to the ground. It's only 2.5 turns to center, then to the other side; not bad at all.

I need to do some cleaning, after about 4 years, it could use some cleaning.

 

This gear is great!

 

No more power steering! I hate that, ah, ah ah!

 

I look great next to my car again, soon I'll be driven it around, like a mad man, I can be sometime; at least at the drag strip. I was perfect at *66, I didn't go back to grab my plaque though, that's when I broke my 700r4, so I went home.

 

Me after working on it, nice and greasy! I think that turns women on! Ah, maybe not all of them, LOL!!!

 

One day when I was working on, pulling my 'Bird all apart in September of 2003, the last time it was driveable

 

This is a picture of a decent amount of the parts I have for my firebird, but I still have a bunch of other parts you can't see, but I have a decent amount of them.

 

This was my cylinder head porting setup down in Normal by ISU. I made it out of cardboard since it was cheap from my work & had lights, a vacuum, work bench, everything you need to port anything. This was how I ported my cylinder heads for the firebird, I spent 45 hours in it; between my HSR porting job to a 1205 felpro, and 31 hours on my heads.

At Ted Borowski's Race Enterprises, the cylinder head expert Roy, was impressed for my first set of cylinder heads I ported, he told me I could have the job, since I was going to go to SAM racing in Houston Texas, three guys at the shop went there.

Roy was going to retire and let me have the job for 43K a year. He said my porting job would cost someone about 1200-1500 bucks.

I took notes of how long I was porting, that's how I achieved, with a 3 angle valve job on the good head at .550" lift, 280 on the intake, and 200 on the exhaust.

This was my porting setup, the first one, check it out:

 

These are my cylinder heads, I'll post the ones of the bowl job soon, which improves any cylinder head the most.

 

I finally found one of the heads I ported, I will post pics of it soon.

Here is my HSR before porting, to a 1205 felpro, one with the top with the gasket, the bottom, with it marked in the spot it needs to be ported, the HSR, needs a lot of port work.

 

This is the plenum area, where the D-shape runner entries could use some massaging, GM High Tech performance, and PHR magazine recommended that they are massaged for some extra performance, I had bought this intake before it was in the magazines, and I was going to port the d-shape entries of the plenum into the runners, before they suggested it for better airflow. I knew that it would help smooth out the air flow, so I did, but I haven't taken pics of it yet, I will have some soon. I've had this intake ported since feb '06.

This is both plenum entries, the intake is almost a knock off of a Dual Quad intake.

 

This is the front, without the plenum, unported.

 

This is the top of the back, without the plenum, unported also.

 

Now I am going to post the ported pics of the intake:

Here are the runner exits, ported to a 1205, I also massaged the Fuel injector bungs, where they enter into the runners, this intake is going to be amazing.

 

Here are the pictures, below the plenum, of the ported D-shaped runner tops, below the plenum. I ported these.

 

 

I can't wait to finish massaging this intake, with some cartridge rolls, to finish the job, but I will be using it, it's good for 35 hp, on a stock motor with manifolds. A motor with headers, roller rockers, and good fuel pressure, is probably about 50 HP. I'll see when it's time for more drag runs. Hopefully I can run the car at the track at least a few times this year, I'll be starting with my ported '91 base, clean, undented runners, ported plenum, airfoil, modified MAF, cold air kit, and I might even set up my hood, too.

After all the reading I've done, and books of information I tried to learn, I became the MAN of porting. I have information I have read from books from John Lingenfelter, I spoke to him over the phone, PHR magazine, and tons of other books, and magazine articles. And the twin turbo expert Tim Nelson. Those guys helped a lot.

On 5/15/07 I have spent quite a bit of money, about $1000 dollars. This is what I have bought all from summit; they match prices from jegs and will beat them! Check out what I have bought:

ARP-134-3601 Head Bolt's,USED WHEN THE MOTORS IN THE CAR
CCA-7808-16 Pushrods 5/16" hyd roller cam, STOCK LENGTH
CLO-9-3545X9 TIMING SET CLOYES, 9 WAY ADJUSTABLE
FEL-501SD HEAD GASKETS, 4.00"
HOK-2210-1HKR LONG TUBE CERAMIC COATED HOOKERS, OH YES!
MAN-42137 PUSH ROD LENGTH CHECKER
MIL-65500 MILODON TIMING COVER
SUM-G2200 GASKET SET/TIMING COVER SET W/SEAL/SBC
MIL-65505 TIMING POINTER FOR 6" SBC'S

All of these parts will get my car together. I already have the exhaust, 2.5" bullet mufflers, I'll do a custom x-pipe, modeled after a burns stainless steel one, with dumps b4 the axle. www.burnsstainless.com to look at the x-pipe design I'm copying from. Check page three for the other stuff, I'm doing.

This is what my bird will be doing soon, by sometime in '08.

 

 

This is my 1989 Formula 350. The car had been parked since 2003, and has a dissasembled motor. It has 125,000 miles on it. The engine is a 350 small block chevy, with the factory tuned port induction. This type of intake places alot of emphasis on the low end, but is done making hp by 4750 rpm, not the best for running great 1/4 mile et's, but with the mods I did, it still ran great, and killed everything I saw on the street. This car ran 14.70s, while slipping through the 60ft on bald pep boys futura tires from the previous owner. While the car ran great, it simply wasn't fast enough for me. And as of June 1st 2003, I got my ticket, my first ticket, which was further pushing me to put the car away and do some more work to it. So I took the entire motor down to the short block, as I am going to be turning it into a nastier motor, with some blowers and nitrous for the track and some alcohol injection on the street when your into the boost, for added detonation protection so it will be around 650-675 horses. You know your friends with a real "nut" when they take apart a car that there was nothing wrong with, just to make it faster.