I now have and installed this Alpine IVA-W200, sounds great and has all the connections ever needed for future upgrading. I will be getting the processor to plug in via Toslink (optical), and then run all PDX series amps in awhile.
Here is how I started building up the boxes. Originally I was going to run 2 Infinity Kappa 12"s, that is what's in teh pic. I changed the angle of the mounting to accomodate bigger magnets for better subs. I molded them to the fender with MDF blocks, and pieces, and laid glass over it. And on and on from there. This isn't the lightest way to do it, but with all the angles and curves inside the box, along with the filler lined sides, it helps with breaking up the standing sound waves. Now these boxes may be heavy and not to exact spec, but they are rock solid, thinnest part is approx 7/8" so no flex whatsoever. They are bolted in and so tight to the car that the little rubber flaps in the pillar vents bounce and move when I turn the subs up (all with the door open, can't tell when they're closed)
This was molding the boxes into the trim and seat belt trim piece. Took a lot longer and more money than I could have ever though, it's all fibre reinforced filler and layers of glass. Hard to work with, sets fast and very very dusty to sand and mold. One day I might rip them out and reinstall a more passenger friendly enclosure as the seats cannot move back more than 4 or 5 inches.
These Premiers have served me well and were pretty loud at running only 80Wrms with the little rockford i had. They are placed right behind the front seats, giving a nice little massage when turned up.
Here are the Distribution blocks I'm going to use to get power to the amps. The left block is the ground distribution block, 3 1/0AWG inputs with 4 4AWG outputs. The right block is the power dis block with the exact same inputs and outputs. The power dis block though has LED circuitry visually letting me know which fuses are good and which are blown (incase I have a blonde moment) with blue for OK and red for OPEN. In the right image you can see a close up of the circuitry used to run the LED's on the dis block.
Decided to go with a 5 Farad, which is a little more than I need, recommended by Tsunami it is 1 Farad per 500Wrms, I am running 2236Wrms when maxxed out, so I need approx 4.25 Farads. Once I charged and installed teh capacitor, I noticed a difference in volume because the amps were getting the power they needed. I figured this would keep the headlights from pulsing or so I thought, until I really crank it up, so a second battery/battery bank and higher amperage alternator will still be needed.
The big amps , they sound great, and loud, just draw a lot of power. The JBL BP1201.1's push 1118Wrms at 2 ohm's, the 12's take 700Wrms each, so they rumble nicely. I decided I'm going to run 1 amp per sub so I don't get the clipping I was getting when ran 1 per pair.
I've glassed in my amp rack to hold the 2 JBL BP1201.1's and the 5 Farad Cap. The pic here is with it roughed in, in need of finishing.I am going to finish wrapping the boxes and amp rack with carbon fibre vinyl once I can come up with the spare coin.
These are the coax's that I have mounted on the C-pillar to basically look like a gauge pod facing forwards. They are JBL Power P652 6.5 Coaxial 2-way speakers. With a honeycomb thick rigid cone and rubber surround, they give clear sound without distortion, considering this is only my rear sound fill, it's in a way overkill, but it sounds awesome.
Well here is the existing trim for the C-pillars, basic, no enclosure.
And here is the pillar with an enclosure glassed on and wrapped with vinyl, and lined with dynamat.
The 6.5 coax's loaded into the enclosure, I wired them up today to check sound, amazed by just deck power.
The stereo rebuild starts, this is after stripping the floorpan, down to base metal and factory sound dampening. Kinda wanted to get some dynashield to spray down before layering the extreme on, but wasn't in budget, oh well extreme will have to do.
This is after the dynamat extreme put onto the pan, taken from the hatch to show the dynamat all the way up to the firewall (just over 1/3 way up too). As my girlfriend says, "Shiinny", haha, the aluminum skin does really reflect in light and the flash of the camera, but it will also help to keep heat out.
I decided to move the extreme liner from the drivers footwell to over the transmission tunnel, since more noise comes from that instead. I'm hoping I did the right choice in doing this. Once the funds come in, I will also get another 5 or 6 pieces of extreme liner to finish off the rest of the floorpan and the last of the tranny tunnel where the carrier bearing is located.
Also finally switched out some of the remaining terra cotta pieces, the e-brake handle and the seat belt fasteners. Only remaining of brown interior is the steering wheel and front seats.
Page 1 Exterior
Page 2 Mods
Page 3 Maintenance
Page 4 Stereo
Page 5 Other Pics
