LS1 EDIT #'s
AFTER LS1 EDIT 336.8 RWHP 346.5 RWTQ. It's not much, but I'm working on it.

INSTALL Tips and Tricks

--Car and mod pictures. The only mods that are not in the picture are the BMR Chrome-Moly Strut bar and the Random Technology High Flow Cat converters. The throttle body nicely increases throttle response! It's quite touchy now, especially with the LT headers installed. The TB R&R only took me about a half an hour.

The LS6 intake was a great improvement in TQ. I fell like I gained about 15-20 hp. I gave it a good heavy clear coating to give it a permanent shine. The runners on the intake are visibly bigger, wider and fatter. Now I have more traction issues.. I am DEFENETLY removing that darn AIR system! That crap did NOTHING but get in the way during this project!

-I installed the Eibach Pro Kit and SLP/Bilstien Re-valved shocks. A total of 1" drop. Also installed was a BMR Adjustable Panhard bar.

Adjustable Panhard Bar Install

To install PHB, place vehicle on lift/ramps or jackstands w/ suspension loaded. Loosten both ends of the PHB and remove. Compare stock bar to New piece and adjust as needed. Place bar back into it's home and tighten to compress the bushings. When vehicle is lowered w/ springs you will need to re-adjust the PHB to center the rearend. Measure for one point on one side and comare it to the other side. I used a spot on the tire compare to the outer edge of the fender. Adjust as needed.

Shox and Springs Install
-I'd rate this about a 6 on the difficulty scale-- Not for ametures.

The rears are CAKE!
Raise body of vehicle so suspension is hanging. You can do this on jackstands. We did... Just used a couple jacks and stands to jack the frame up and jet the rear hang. Disconnect the rear shocks. (top and bottom.) The rear shock bolt for the top is located behind passenger seat. There is a carpet cutout for it, just fold out of the way. If there is no cutout, just grab a box cutter and try to find it by pushing HARD on the carpet. There is a thick foam piece under the carpet.

You might have to lift the rear end SLIGHTLY to get the shock out of the bottom mount. Lower rear end back down as far as it can go. THe springs should now be somewhat loose. You can pry them out of the way, or disconnect the PHB to get the rear to drop down more. I did not have to do that in this case, just a little prying. Once the springs and shocks are out, you can now slip the shiny new springs of your choice in the empty spot. There is a small pocket that they sit in. Be sure to REPLACE THE RUBBER BUMPER! There is a small bump where the center of the spring bumper should center.

Next, install the shox. Top first: loosely thread the rubber washer, the metal washer and then the lock nut to keep the shock from falling out. Then you might have to push the shock up to get it to line up w/ the rear end hole on the bottom. Tighten top first to compress the bushing. Then tighten the bottom. Lower the car and check the top bolt and be sure the bushing is still compressed. You don't have to compress the sh!t out of it! Just enough to get it to bulge. Reconnect anything else that you have messed w/. It SHOULD look something like this...

The relocation brackets slide over where the LCA's go. you'll have to bend the E-Brake line bracket out of the way twords the inside center of the car. Just that one side. (you'll see) Use stock bolt AND SLEEVE where the stock bolt location is. THen place the LCA in teh slot where you want it (bottom hole, usually) and bolt it back in using the supplied equipment.

FRONT SPRINGS/SHOX.... (a bit more complicated.)

First, spray all bolts/nuts/ball joints that need to be removed ahead of time w/ some PB Blaster or WD-40. THis make life a little easier. ...

Up top, Remove shock tower brace (if you have one... IF you don't, remove the nuts where it would go. 2 nuts on front and 2 bolts on the back half. All 4 regular are bolts/nuts on the PASS side, no TX) On the driver's side (on LS1 models, not sure of LT1) you'll have to disconnect the master CYL from the power brake booster. In order to get it to slide out of the way so you can acess the TX bolt unbder it. It's easier to disconnect the ABS unit from the mount, lift it and slide it and the Master out of the power brake booster. Now you can get to the two TX bolts that are attached to the upper part of the Shock/spring assembly. The Torx bolts are TX-47. Disconnect the other two nuts on the front as well.

Once you get the wheels out of the way, first disconnect the bottom 2 shock bolts on the lower A-Arm. You could disconnect the sway bar mount, but I don't think it's nesessary (it could be rusted beyond repair anyway, I didn't do it), I don't think it's nesessary. Disconnect the Upper ball joint on the upper A arm. Key here is, PRY and whack the female end knuckle w/ a hammer a couple times, it should pop out (neat trick). After the steering assembly is out, pull the steering assembly off to one side, you can tie it to where you want it w/ some small rops/550 cord. This can get difficult. Pull the shock and spring assembly out from under the wheel well. (hard to explain. Pull down and out, and then pull the top of the shock up tword the top of the wheel well.)

You should have the strut LOOKING assembly out. (It's not a damn strut, NAPA!) Also: DO NOT TOUCH THAT MIDDLE NUT, YET!!! DON'T F*****G TOUCH IT!! I CAN'T STRESS THAT ENOUGH!! NOT YET!! ....... Anyway....... You can pull the upper plate/a-arm off of the top of the shock/spring assy. -Don't worry, it comes off. Now strap the spring compressors EVENLY on the springs and compress them till the spring pulls off of the bottom or top of the mounting surface.

!SPRING REMOVAL/COMPRESSION CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS. PERFORM AT YOUR OWN RISK. COMPRESSED SPRINGS POSSES A TREMENDOUS AMOUNT OF ENERGY AND SHOULD BE TREATED W/ RESPECT. A LOOSE SPRING CAN FLY OFF UNCONTROLLABLY AND CAN DAMAGE OR KILL....I HAVE BEEN TRAINED AT A TECHNICAL SCHOOL FOR THIS....PERFORM AT YOUR OWN RISK. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY MISHAPS!

Now, once the spring is compressed and loose on the shock, disconnect the top middle nut that holds the top plate in place. If it is too rusted, you can cut the shock shaft w/ sawzall or whatever, if you are replacing the shocks (good time for it anyway). Remove spring and loosen the compressors. Remove brass cap on top of shock. Remove black spring seat plate on bottom of shock. It might need some persuasion, tap evenly on alternating sides to remove it. Replace parts in that order on new shocks. Compress new spring, place it over the new shock onto mounting plate, DON'T FORGET THE DUST COVER, AND THE RUBBER BUSHINGS! (Place the washer on first, then the dust cover) Once spring is compressed enough where the top plate and the dust cover meet (or until the top plate is on there as much as it will go, and the spring is loose), reinstall top middle nut. You don't have to tighten the SNOT out of it, just tighten it. You'll know when the top nut is tight (bottomed out). Align the spring w/ the lower rubber bushing. Re-install top A-Arm plate and install assembly back into car. You might have to turn the shock to get the top a-arm plate to align w/ the bottom shock holes. (you'll see) If you have to turn the shock, just place the bottom shock mount in something that won't move (vice works but DON'T Tighten it!) and turn the top w/ a pry bar. (between the bolts, it WILL go, or WD-40 it) Re-install top A-arm plate first then slide the bottom in. Bolt the bottom shock bolts in, then the ball joint. Then Re-install the top bolts.

Repeat for the other side.

This took me about 6 hrs, including going downtown to get a TorX bit for the front end and getting lunch.

Header Install Tips

--The next group of Install pictures are of my SLP LT header kit W/ R.T. cats and 3" SLP Y-Pipe, NGK-R plugs, and Taylor 10.4 Race wire. I ended up installing the headers myself. It took me 14 hours to install them. The old system only took 3 hours to get down. But the pass side header took me an hour and a half to fanagle the new one in there. Otherwise, it wasn't too bad.

Disconnect everything that you can from the top then go underneath. (Battery, AIR, EGR, Plug wires, remove the coil packs, this frees up a bit of room.) Remove the Y pipe, then you can pull the stock manifolds down when they're loostened. The drivers side header slips right up, just remove the oil filter. When it comes time to put the pass side header up, jack the car up from the center of the K-member. (needs to be higher) That will give you the room. You can either loosten the motor mounts to get the motor to slide over. Or you can loosten the trans cross brace and the trans mount. I'd go w/ the motor mount idea. I never tried it, but it sounds like it will work better. Get someone under there to push on the side of the trans/driveshaft while you force the header up and jack the trans up and down...

As far as height for install, I had the front on ramps, and the back end on the ground. Keep the jack handy w/ a couple pieces of 2x4's for cribbing. Using a lift would be easier, but I didn't have acess to one that the time.

It's a PITA to get the PASS side up, but it IS do-able. After the headers are in the the rest of the project moves smoothly. The only other dificult task was attatching the EGR tube to the PASS side header. I literaly got my arm stuck! I suggest trying to do it while the header is loose. The Y-pipe hangs a little low, but so far no scrapes. Just be smart about it.

--This next picture is after the installed LS1Speed Short Shifter. I never thought I had a problem with the stock shifter, but after the switch I realised how the new shifter has a much better feel, presice and exact. It turns out I had a missing bolt on the stocker anyway...

--Next is of the Hawk Pad and Earl's Stainless Steel Braided brake line install.

BMR Adjustable Torque Arm Install Tips

--Jack up vehicle w/ suspension supported, or install on a drive on lift. Remove the two large rear bolts that hold the TQ arm to the Rearend. Remove the bolt on the top of the "clamshell" mount on the transmission. Slide the stocker out of the clamshell mount. Remove the two bolts that hold the stock mount in. Drill out the rivits that hold the stock bushing halves in. (it's ok!) Once all is removed the new POLY bushing will fit between both halves. Re-install half of the mount, tighten. Fit the bushing on the half of the mount that is in and re-install the other half. Thread the bolt to tighten the bushing (closes the two clam halves) in far enough for it to catch.

Use some oil or WD-40, I recomend 80/90 gear oil (thicker).. Slide the male end of the TQ arm into the POLY mount. Slide the rear half back over the rear-end, and re-install the two large bolts and tighten to 80 ft/lbs (-?) or just tighten w/ an impact gun. Tighten TQ arm mount on trans or other. Leave the rest loose. Take the rearend angle measurement (pinion angle), from the TQ arm flange, and subtract it from the driveshaft angle. This SHOULD yield a negative number, if not, adjust the loostening nut on the bottom of the TQ arm until it does. Optimum angle is about -2 degrees. It's fool proof..

Next and LAST! Tighten the remaining bolts on the side of the TQ arm AND the jam nuts on the adjuster. Now Take it for a rip!! You should notice better traction on launches.

McLeod Adjustable Slave Clyneder Install Tricks

I ahev installed my New McLeod Single disck clutch, Pressure plate and friction disk, but I don't feel like writing that up right now. It took me 4 hrs to do this and the drill mod. It took me 5 hrs to do the clutch... that alone should inform you as to the difficulty of this task.

Stocker on the left, McLeod unit on the right.

Go under the car and remove the heatshield from the body. It will hold the brake line in place. Then disconnect the braided clutch line form the trans. You can either use the GM tool, or two screwdrivers work good too. Push in on the plastic ring then pull the connection out of the slave clyinder.

As far as back up top...Pry the Clutch system fluid resevoir away from the wheel well. keep it upright as to avoid spilling brake fluid that WILL REMOVE YOUR PAINT! Removing the Brake Master clyinder helps free up some room. Unbolt the brake master from the power brake booster. 2 15mm bolts there. THen two 13mm bolts that hold down the ABS unit. If you do not unblot the ABS unit, the master will not move. I also removed my shock tower bar.

Go under the dash and remove the black pannel that hides the Clutch master clynder connection to the pedal. Also will have to remove the front pannel where the trunk release button is.

Then unclip the master from the pedal. A flathead screwdriver works best. Then unbolt the master from the firewall. After that it's time to make yourself comfortable under the hood and on top of the engine for that matter.

You'll need someone to help on the inside of the car to guide it out. There will be a thick wiring harness in the way, try to work around it. There is a U-Bolt on the master. This is what bolts it to the body/firewall. Try to pull it off. It will help a lot.

The slave is buried under the power brake booster. You'll have to snake your hand and arm underneath to get it out. Once you get it out, take a roll pin punch and remove the roll pin that retains the braided line to the master.

The disconnecct the fluid resivoir from the unit. Drain, but do not clean with water! Brake fluid absorbs moisture. You can use brakeclean if you want, but it could stain the plastic.

-DRILL MOD-
-THE ENTIRE MASTER, RESERVOIR AND LINES MUST BE REMOVED TO PERFORM THIS MOD-

Use an old hose piece to gently hold the master end of the braided line in the vice (looks like a brake bleeder valve). (sorry no pic)If you insert the drill bit into the line with your hand you can feel an obstruction in the line. That's what will be drilled out. Use a 7/64" drill bit. The website www.InstallUniversity.com says to use an 1/8" drill bit, but I felt it was too big. Gently drill out the obstruction, lifting the drill frequently to remove shavings. Keep the line straight as to not drill through the side of it.

-INSTALL CONTINUED-

Now it's time to bolt everything back to the new unit. Re-attatch the resevoir and line. The kit comes with a hose clamp, use it on the resevoir line. It also comes with a new gasket/O-Ring for the braided line. Install the braided line into the new unit WITH THE O-RING. Re-install the roll pin. Time to bench bleed it. Don't skimp on this step, as it also flushes the abrasives and metal shavings from the line. You'll have to hold the braided line and used the large end of the roll pin punch to depress the detent/checkvalve on the slave end to get a flow out of it, while simultaniously depressing the piston/ rod on the master to send fluid. Hold your finger on the end of it to be sure you are not sucking in air when you release the master. Once it's bleed well, try to compress the rod/plunger/piston on the master(whatever you want to call it)... the Master should be rock hard. Time to reinstall into the vehicle.

My BenchBleeding setup..

Have a buddy inside the car to guide it in and thread in the bolts. The bolts on this kit thread form the inside of the vehicle, it comes with two flat washers and two lock washers. I just used the lock washers. Once the bolts are in, follow McLeod's instructions for your vehicle. The metal clip on the top of the pedal is a PAIN to reinstall, but be patient. -I know patience will be low by this point of the install. Reconnect the braided line to the slave and re-attatch the resevoir to the wheelwell. LS1 Cars should be adjusted to the pedal stop on the begining (top) of it's throw. Reinstall everything that your removed. Once reinstalled I highly recomend bleeding a couple pumps through the whole system. I was afraid of still having air in the system so I beld it BEFORE I even touched the newly installed pedal.

LUG STUD REMOVAL

Don't ask.... For some reason one of my lugs froze and broke upon removal when I went to install my shiney new wheels.

Remove wheel. Remove brake caliper and mounting bracket. You might have to slightly smack the rotor with a hammer to get it loose. Once loose, you can pry the Ebrake ring/shoe out of place. it is held in by a small clip at the top. It slides right out.

After the ebrake shoe is out of the way, take a hammer and beat the old stud out of it's hole. It will go. Smack it a couple good times and it should fly out of there. Take the new stud and slip it into place. Use a lug to draw it back into it's bore. I HIGHLY recomend using an impact gun, but don't get greedy with it! You could break the stud. I zapped it in one to two second increments, to keep it from heating up too much. Once on to a certain point, remove the lug nut and get a large nut to help act as a spacer to draw it the rest of the way in. Again using short bursts with the impact gun.

While in there I also located the ebrake adjustment. It is similar to the drum brake adjustments. Adjust as you need. Unscrew it and it will make the ebrake tighter, screw it in and it will make the ebrake looser. After adjustment, be sure the rotor spins freely with the Ebrake off, it should not touch at all. (to prevent premature wear)

As you can see from the next pic, it dings up the ABS reluctor ring a little bit bit it is not in 'view' of the sensor, so it will not effect the ABS.

After it is done, it will look normal... hopefully...

Under car pics..

RotorWorks Drilled and Slotted rotors. THe wheels are a little dirty in this pic.

WISTLER MOD..

Page 1 Car Summary
Page 2 MOD Pics and Install Tricks *AND* DYNO #'s
Page 3 External mods
Page 4 Car Pictures
Page 5 Car Shows
Page 6 Audio Information
Page 7 My old Firebird
Page 8 ARTICLE--Camaro Envy !Must Read!