Vehicle Owner

Member ID: Sn0wB0arderDude7

Location: Modesto, CA

Vehicle Info

1996 Ford Mustang

Bragging Rights

  • 1/4 Mile14.4 sec @ 98 mph
  • 0-600sec
  • Top Speed150mph
  • HP250
  • Weight3600lbs

Major Upgrades

  • turbo
  • nitrous
  • bore increase
  • port and polish
  • supercharger
  • extrude honed
  • stroke increase
  • engine swap

Ratings

    • Currently 2.7/5 Stars.
    • Currently 2.7/5 Stars.
    • Currently 2.7/5 Stars.
    • Currently 2.5/5 Stars.
    • Currently 2.6/5 Stars.

Login to rate

 

Last updated: Dec 01, 2007

Hits: 26,991

Derek’s Ford Mustang
“Dark Horse”

  • Currently 2.7047619047619 /5 Stars.
118 guestbook comments

Install

Tokico HP series

2/25/05

Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang
--Before--
Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang
--After--

Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang
The New Tokico HP series Struts and Tokico Springs

The Front is the harder of the two... but its acutally really easy, just time consuming. me and a friend the the front and rear in about 4 hours. we also stoped to eat pizza and take brakes. ok so when you do the Front. Start by jacking up the front so its off the ground a bit then go to the back and jack it up, go back to the front and jack it up higher. The A-arms must have room to drop down so get the front up there. put the jack stands one the subframes. take the wheels off, Brakes(hang up the calaper). thenremove the ABS sensor, i beleve its a Torix socket. then remove the bolt that holts the cable in place. hang it up so it dosnt get caught on anything. i didn't do this but its a good idea. put a chain around the spring and the A-Arm so it wont fly any where(remember its under pressure). you dont need a spring compresser. just a floor jack. Jack up the A-Arm directly under the spring. Just a little so there pressure on the spring then go up about 1" higher. Remove the Tie Rod end remove the cotter pin and take the nut off. Then use Two hammers and hit the tie rod at the same time from the sides trying to vibrate them. You might have to hit them pritty hard. But dont beat down on it with one hammer or hit the threads. Now start to remove the Strut, start with the two bolts that are on the bottom of the strut. you might want to use a penentrating oil or somthing. After thoses are removed make sure that anything and everything is out of the way and drop it down SLOWLY so it dose not fly any where. The top will probably stick in the upper part of the A-Arm so you might need to pry the A-Arm down more but it still is under Pressure so Becarful. After the spring is removed use a air gun to remove the top nut on the Strut. i dont think you can do it with just a ratchet the strut will just spin. the new spring are probebly going to be shorter so they will be easyer to get in, then the old ones are to get out. Then just reverse these steps to istall them and the other side.

Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang

Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang

New & Old Springs
Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang

Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford MustangSn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang

Fog Lights Mod

Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang

The factory fog light switch will only let you turn on your fog lights when your head lights are on. When you turn on your brights, your fog lights will turn off. This mod allows you to turn on your fog lights on without the head lights on and also with the brights on.

Instructions:

The following change will allow the fog lights to be turned on anytime the key is in the "run" position.. This prevents the battery from being drained if the fog lights are accidentally left on when the vehicle is turned off. The procedure applies to any 94+ Mustang with fog lights. From the factory, the fog light switch receives a 12V signal when the head lights are turned on. This signal allows the fog light switch to send a signal to the fog light relay. The operation of the switch can be changed by removing the signal from the headlights and replacing it with a signal that is present when the key is in the run position.

Procedure:

Remove the storage compartment from the center console by removing the small rubber stops, removing screws, and pulling upward to release snaps. Reach in and press the fog light switch upward out of the console. Both coupe and convertible use the same wire harness in the center console. The convertible top motor switch has a 12V power signal only when the key is in the "run" position. Obviously, the connector is located next to the fog light switch, unused on coupes. The purple/orange wire carries the 12V source. Remove the red/black wire from the fog light switch connector and cover all exposed wire with electrical tape (prevent it from grounding). On convertibles, remove the red/black wire from the fog light switch and connect a jumper from the purple/orange wire to the fog light switch, thus sending the 12V signal to both switches. Wires can be removed from their connectors by pulling the red plastic cover off the end of the connector. This exposes the clips that retain each wire. Press on the appropriate clip and pull the wire from the connector. When you cut the red/black wire do not cut it right at the connector, leave about a half inch with the connector, you will be using this to hook it back up. Do the exact same thing to the purple/orange wire if it is a coupe. Once both wires are cut, remove about a half inch of the wire covering off the existing red/black connector and the purple/orange 12v wire. Twist them together and cover it with some electrical tape. Put the new red/black connector with the purple/orange 12v wire back into the fog light connector. Both the fog light switch and convertible top switch are only energizing relays, so over loading wires and melting insulation will not occur. See diagram below.

Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang

Polish MAF

Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang

Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang

Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang

Subframe connectors

Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang


Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford MustangSn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang
Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang

Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang

Painting wheels

Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang

Sn0wB0arderDude7's 1996 Ford Mustang

Page 1: Intro
Page 2: Exterior
Page 3: Motor 5.4
Page 4: Parts Install
Page 5: 5.4 Install

Guestbook

Displaying entries 1-5 of 118

Blackbob  

Posted by: Blackbob

03/05/2009 01:41AM

Awesome man, I was looking at doing this swap myself.

bleakleym  

Posted by: bleakleym

04/20/2008 10:43PM

Nice bro what did that motor come our of I love the over the engine intake. Is it a dif manifold or complete motor? Please check mine out if you get a chance.

chevy-hondalover  

Posted by: chevy-hondalover

06/17/2007 01:39AM

nice stang bro. u race it?

black98stang  

Posted by: black98stang

08/18/2006 05:02PM

Hey man, thanx for getting back to me, i'm not sure if i'm gonna put the lightning motor in it yet, i'm also considering like and 03-04 cobra setup, but i appreciate your input, catch ya later.

2Crunk  

Posted by: 2Crunk

07/25/2006 12:30PM

Nice work on the Stang!!! Did you ever get a chance to Dyno it?

Show Older Comments

Post a comment

Bookmark this Ride

Vehicle Owner

Member ID: Sn0wB0arderDude7

Location: Modesto, CA