Page 1: Vehicle History
Page 2: Modifications
Page 3: Modifications Continued
Page 4: More Pictures
Page 5: Autocross Pictures
Page 6: Meets, Greets, and Shows
Modifications Continued
I would like to thank Justin R. for having spent many hours by my side taking apart my car, laying wires, and reassembling it. The most difficult and time consuming task of the stereo install was snaking wires through the rubber boots in the door jambs. It took a long time, but I am glad I don't see speaker wires in my doors.
Because of the common ground stereo system installed on pre-1988 Mark VIIs, I had to rewire everything to use aftermarket components. I also had to run 3 RCA cables, a remote wire, and a 4 gauge power wire for the amplifier. I used an amplifier wiring kit from Scosche, but I used my own, higher quality remote wire and RCA cables. All wires for the stereo were run without drilling any holes.
The RCA cables were Radio Shack Gold Series cables. They measured 20 feet in length each and were bundled together and laid along the right side of the car. The power cable was laid along the driver's side to reduce noise interference.
Radio Shack 16 gauge Megacable speaker wire was used to connect the amplifier to the speakers. Front door speaker wires were also run from the cabin into the doors through the electrical boot in each door jamb. Fish tape and an iron will to have the install look factory were essential to snaking the wire. It took more than a few tries and a bit of time. The front tweeters were mounted on spare mirror covers and angled for proper imaging.
I removed the rear seat, front kick panels, and door entry mouldings so that I could hide the wires. While the interior was apart, I removed the rear, interior quarter panels to remove the rear package tray.
Through my own negligence during my window tint removal, a hole was burnt through my package tray carpet by the third brake light bulb.
The package tray was removed from the car and reupholstered. Unable to find an exact replacement, I used a higher nap, black carpet. It matches surprisingly well, but it still has to get replaced for something closer to the original charcoal carpet.
Here is a picture of my amplifier. It is mounted at the very back of the trunk.
1986-1989 Mark VII LSCs had speedometers that were marked to a measely 95 MPH (85 indicated) due to then current government regulations. 1990-92 LSCs had updated speedometers that were marked up to 120 MPH. Not being satisfied with less than useful instruments, I decided I wanted better.
A few days after the stereo install, I finally had racked up enough miles for my stock odometer to match the updated instrument cluster from a 1990-92 LSC. I had purchased this cluster soon after I bought the car and had saved it nearly a year before the time was right to install it.
I wanted the readings to match exactly so that there would be no recorded mileage change on the car. As a side benefit to updating the cluster, the lighting of the 120 MPH are green, better matching the other dash lighting.
I mounted the alarm LED in a very conspicuous location so that the stock appearance of the car is preserved. Most alarm LEDs are way under 2,000 MCD in brightness. I installed a 3,000 MCD LED to make sure there is no confusion. At night, the bright LED creates an intermitent wall of light at the base of the windshield. If angled into the interior, the cabin would be lit up with each flash.
NOS splash guards were located and purchased for the car. I decided to hold off installing them. Instead, they will go on my new '89 LSC, which will be my daily driver.
The rear, TRW endlinks I purchased to use with my upgraded anti-roll bar failed one day. The hardware was only grade 5. They were replaced under the limited lifetime warranty, but changing them was a hassle due to their location and the cheaper design of the aftermarket parts. Ford no longer makes the original endlinks. Should they fail a second time, I will be forced to procure tougher hardware. I highly recommend Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings for anyone who wants a stiffer bushing material than stock for the anti-roll bar bushings. The TRW polyurethane bushings are surprisingly soft. I had used TRW poly bushings in the front for my larger anti-roll bar, but they were absolutely shot and worse for wear than the stock parts in 20 years of use. I ended up replacing the front bushings again after a year or less of hard driving. Use rubber to keep the OE feel.
A custom fit Weathershield car cover was purchased from Big Sky Car Covers to keep the car protected during its winter hibernation. A custom bag and a cable and lock kit were added to the order. The bag and lock kit weren't as nice as I expected, but they will probably do the job. I had a hard time deciding between the NOAH and the Weathershield, but after talking to a vendor at Bavarian Autosport's 2004 Show and Shine, I chose the Weathershield for it slightly superior water shedding abilities. It seems to be doing well. It beads up water like an umbrella in the rain. The fabric feels to be of a similarly tight weave. Its water shedding abilities have been great and the investment was well worth it. Best of all, it stows away nicely for car shows.
More than once, I have considering widening the BBS style wheels. I have found www.WeldcraftWheels.com through Mark007 from LincolnsOnline.com to be a highly reputable wheel widening shop and I recommend them for anyone wishing to have their wheels widened.
While widening seemed to be the plan, I found a set of rare 16"x8" BBS RA wheels used on an actual GTC in November or December 2004. They came off a GTC that was junked. If anyone knows of a white Stage 1 GTC around greater Boston, this was probably the car. They needed new center caps, tires, valve stems, lug nuts, and a color change. Valve stems that matched the originals were found through Bavarian Autosport and the shouldered lug nuts I needed were found through BBS of America in GA. The center caps were found after a few months of looking on eBay. A spare cap was located during a trip to the Carlisle All Ford Nationals in 2007.
When I got the wheels, they were pretty dirty. Years of brake dust, grime, and dirt were caked on the back.
A lot of scubbing and full strength Simple Green works wonders on really dirty wheels. I recommend a coat or two of body wax after using Simple Green on wheels you don't intend to paint, however. Simple Green works wonders in a large bucket as a parts cleaner too. It's what I used when I refinished my engine accessories.
They were white because the GTC was white. I used the Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 in a 245/50/16 size. Even with bumped pressures, the sidewall flexed a lot autocrossing and the tread pattern took a beating during the hard and abrupt cornering. They've been great tires all around and even ride well and are quiet, but I think I need something even more aggressive autocrossing. For everyday use and highway duty, they are great tires.
I tested the same GM metallic gray color that I used on my grille on part of one wheel. It looked like it matched well, so I went and masked, primed, and painted the rest of them. All the wheels were carefully masked and then sprayed with 2 coats of self etching primer as paint already existed on the surface. They were then sprayed with 2-3 coats of metallic base coat and finally finished with 3 coats of clear. I also eventually found 4 center caps in good condition for the wheels. New valve stems still need to be installed. I want to match the valve stems that were removed from the wheels. They should have come from BBS and they were bolt on stems with an all metal construction. The only source I easily found that has them is Bavarian Autosport, a renowned BMW parts and accessories company. I have been to their headquarters in New Hampshire and I have seen what they offer and am pleased. When I get my BMW, they will be getting more of my business. They also have a 3M film that is invisible yet perfect for a door edge guard.
I have also found a set of 17" 1996 Mustang Cobra Wheels that match the car really well. The gray on the wheels matches my paint exactly or nearly exactly. I can't decide which wheels to use, especially with my copy of the Mark VII GTC body kit that has re-entered production thanks to the efforts of W.V. Kelly and ReMarkableLSC on FordvsChevy.com. Please contact them if you are seriously interested in a kit. The unpainted kit is estimated to cost somewhere around $1300 and will include all hardware necessary for installation. I have received my kit and the quality has matched my expectations. It is awaiting install when the car is repainted and the Special Edition parts I have been collecting get installed at the same time.
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I installed re-valved Koni struts in June 2007 with Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber Plates for improved strut location. The Mark VII valving seems a little under-damped for rebound. Adjusting the struts for stiffer rebound seems to have been the better bet for my needs and it eliminated the high speed float I had in the front. For anyone looking for more performance, you'll need a stiffer valving than the stock VII specs. At the same time, I also installed a 2003-04 Mustang Cobra steering rack and Maximum Motorsports Hybrid Steering shaft. The Cobra rack has finally cured my light steering and the shaft has improved feel a little bit. It's a heady investment, but well worth it for the gains. It's no BMW still, but it's the best option available.
In October 2007, I had my front anti-roll bar bracket welded back onto the car. It seems to have developed a stress fracture then fatigued off. When the body shop was in there, I had them install my Maximum Motorsports Mark VII subframe connectors. They lengthened the connectors a little to better match the car and for additional strength. It was around this time that I discovered I had a blown head gasket. The car is now sidelined until I collect the parts I need to bring it back stronger than ever. The plans are for Thumper E7 heads, a Cobra upper and lower intake, FMS 1.6 aluminum roller rockers, ceramic coated, equal length shorty headers, a Bassani catted X pipe, Magnaflow mufflers, 2.25" stainless tail pipes, and some powder coated stock valve covers.
More pictures on page 4!
Page 1: Vehicle History
Page 2: Modifications
Page 3: Modifications Continued
Page 4: More Pictures
Page 5: Autocross Pictures
Page 6: Meets, Greets, and Shows
