Engine and Tranny Upgrades:

To Force Induction or not? (3/5/06)
I've been deciding on what I should do next. It's a fact that I want more power, thanks to being accustomed to driving my buddy Hammy's Mini Cooper S. As of now I'm really leaning towards doing just a basic JRSC kit, upgrade along the way, and cross my fingers that I don't want any more power from there on out. Next option is to convert towards the larger 1.8L BP motor, and use one of BRP M62 hotside kits. Turbo options are huge, but Flyin Miata is still out of my price range. I've considered the Greedy kit, but I just see too much lag in that setup. Still I've got a lot more time ahead of me to decide what I should do. Any suggestions, information are welcomed here. Email me at miata_2159@yahoo.com if you have a word to say about your experience with a kit, or what words you'd like to express. And yes, I've looked into the ITRB setups, it seems to be out of my league, as the tuning would test my ignorance.

Jackson Racing Header:

INSTALLATION:
1. First off, go grab some Liquid Wrench, and spray it on all over the nuts that will be removed. Do this night before the install!
2. Wake up, and set aside a few hours to install it. Be aware that some things go wrong, so prepare for the worst.
3. Jack the car up enough to where you can work comfortably under there, you�ll need as much comfort as you can get. Don�t forget to put it on jack stands, and chock the rear tires!!!
4. I can�t recall what size these nuts are, but go get the correct socket, and begin to unbolt the header. FYI: the stock piece is a two piece, so that means it comes in two pieces. It�s connected to the engine, and then to the cat. converter. Some muscle might be needed to unbolt them, but not much. If you�re having a hard time at it, then get a longer wrench to work with, as it will give you more torque for less hand work. Don�t forget the EGR sensor. This is connected to the first piece of the header that comes from the engine. Brian and I just took the entire header off, and used a pipe wrench to take it off, as we didn�t have the right socket. Some may disagree with this method, but it did work for us, so it may be different from your application.
5. Next up is to have all the nuts in a safe area. You don�t want to lose them. Also note that there are two gaskets that you will be reusing. One for the main four pipes that connects to the engine, and the other for the end of the header connection to the cat. converter.
6. Rest is to install the new JR header. Grab your gaskets, and place them where they need to be. Get a spotter for the bottom. Make sure everything is fit correctly, and then put on the nuts. Don�t, and I repeat don�t tighten one nut to the tightest, when the others haven�t even been put on!!! This is a horrible habit to obtain. Get them all on snug a bit first. Then tighten from the center on out. Same should apply for the end of the header connection, just that when you tighten them, it won�t matter which one goes first.
7. Install the EGR sensor, a little tight here is good. Looking good so far? I hope so.
8. Start her up, and see if there are any problems. Like loose nuts is a thing to look for, and smoke. There will be smoke burned from the Liquid Wrench, so don�t stress on that. Lower her down to the ground.
9. Get in, and drive her to redline!!!!
10. Bring her home, pop the hood for further inspection of anything bad.

RESULTS:

Some torque is gained, but nothing major. It seems to be more willing to rush to redline territory. Overall for $90, it�s a steal! The header is actually poor manufacturing process. Welding is like crap, but I�ll have to access that later on����..along with maybe, just maybe, some polishing of it. If you�re looking to pay for it brand new, then walk away right now! Not worth its retail of $450, the new Racing Beat is the one to get. It�s truly is beautiful, and costs less!

Goodwin Racing Roadstersport Catback Exhaust System(non-resonated):

Purchaced from GoodWinRacing

Price: $380 delivered

INSTALLATION:

1. Don�t install this system when your old catback exhaust is HOT!!! If you�ve just come back from your favorite backroad, give the car a long rest. No matter where you live, work on it when it�s cold.
2. I tried to use ramps to raise the rearend, but didn�t have enough clearance. So do yourself a favor and have plenty of room to work under there. E-brake on, and chock the front tires.
3. Spray any type of penetrating spray you love the most on the hangers, and bolts that are about to be removed.
4. Remove the positive terminal on the battery.
5. Unbolt the old catback exhaust system from the catalytic converter. Then remove the system from the hangers, front to back. Be careful, as you can hurt yourself if not careful when the old system comes down.
6. Put the old system to the side where it won�t get in your way.
7. If your 90-95, then install the plug provided with the system into the O2 sensor hole, if it�s a 96-97 then install your stock O2 sensor plug. The midpipe contains the O2 sensor hole.
8. Next install the midpipe onto the rubber hangers. Grab the larger gasket provide with the kit, and install it between the catalytic converter and the midpipe. Use the old bolts, and tighten it to 30-41ft/lbs.
9. Go grab that beautiful muffler. Using a rag with zip ties wrapped on to hold the rag to the tip will help provide protection from scratches. It�s also good to have a � inch thick of wood or something stiff to provide the � inch gap needed between the tip and the bumper cutout.
10. Install the hangers into the rubber hangers. Pick up the provided gasket (smallest one of the two), and place it between the muffler and midpipe connection. Next up, take the 2 bolts, and 2 nuts. Torque them to 30-41 ft/lbs.
11. Remove the rag and wood block. Does it have a � inch clearance? If so, you�re good to go. Next is to put back on the positive terminal.
12. Just to make sure everything is right, give the system a small tug, if it nothing falls apart, then you�re looking good.
13. Jack the car up, remove jack stands, lower it to the ground slowly. Get in, clutch in, turn the key, and hit the throttle. Wow! That�s what I said when I started her up. Go give her a spin and see how it runs. Should have a smell to it, as it�s burning off all the internals inside the new system, but should be gone in a few days.

RESULTS:

After about 4 months of it in use, this exhaust is getting on the raspy side. Even though it was raspy to begin with, but seems at WOT it's a screamer, but not that bad. Still love the note when maintained by throttle control. I might some day purchase a resonator to decrease the raspiness, but for now it's more than livable for me. One thing for future owners out there, don't ever run without the muffler. I did this as a test, and boy is it LOUD!!! It literally sounds like a V8 with a little more of a higher rev. Test drive on the streets revealed it to be just unbareable, so horriblly loud that I just didn't even want to go WOT. Anyways, still well spent money, as it's very PURDY underneath my Miata now :).

HKS Intake System:

Above:Clean cut looks.

Painted Camcover(Cosmetic):

Left: Old wrinkle paint stripped, and cleaned of any gunk left on it. Right: Finished re-done valve cover. Little bit inconsistent on some spots, but it came out nicely for something that cost near to none.

PROCESS:

1. Decide which color you'd like to have. I chose wrinkle red from Krylon.
2. Remove the PCV valve on the left side of the valve cover by unclamping it first. Do the same for the hose on the right side that connects to the intake tube.
3. Unscrew the screws that hold down the valve cover to the head of the engine. There should be 13 screws all together, 2 of them are shorter than the rest, and they hold down the chrome pipe in front of the valve cover. They all use a 10mm socket.
4. There should be 2 screws that hold down the coil pack. Unscrew those by using a 12mm socket. Pull out the plug wires, yet still have them connected to the coil pack, just not to the engine itself. I just hung them over the firewall nicely.
5. The valve cover should now be free for removal. Lift it away.
6. Remove the plastic gasket that should be stuck underneath the valve cover, and place it aside.
7. Grab some plastic wrap from the kitchen, and cover the head with it, so that no nast dust or dirt gets inside your engine head.
8. Time to clean it, so grab something of your flavor to clean it. Dishing washing soap, bleach, clothing detergent, degreaser, whatever it may be, it should work out just fine. Cleaning off the grease is the key, or else it won't bond well to the paint. Use a hair dryer, and some old rags to dry it clean.
9. Now that it's dry and clean of grease and grime, it's time to mask a little. Just mask off the holes by rolling the tape with sticky side out, and squish it inside the hole. Mask off the oil cap hole also.
10. Spray a light coat of primer on it.
11. Now spray on your final coat. If you're using wrinkle paint like I am, 2 or 3 heavy coats are needed. The wrinkle finish will not appear until later on. I waited overnight, and wokeup to a wrinkle finish.
12. For the letterings, I sprayed my color into the cap, grabbed a nice model kit brush and brushed on 3 coats of silver.
13. Installation is reverse, but be very careful to everything. The wrinkle finish will not cure for a very long time, so do not touch it, as it's dry, but soft. After being very careful, and double checking that you haven't left anything behind, like the gasket! I tightened the screws by feel, no need for lots of torque here, just tighten until it feels tight.........not lugnuts tight!
13. Start it up, and check for stuff that may look wrong. Looking good? Mines did, and I'm sures will. Costs nothing, and your car just has to be out of order for a day.

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Disclaimer: DO ALL MODS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! I AM NOT AT FAULT FOR ANY OF YOUR MISTAKES!!!