Here's old my system. I'm only leaving this page up for the "fiberglass impaired" people.
Strangely enough it all started one day when I was sitting in Math class with my friend. We were bored and I was showing him the Kicker Solo-X's on ebay. I found a nice guy that was selling 2 18" CVRs on separate auctions. I used buy it now and got each for 100 + 20 shipping. He said that the 18s were just too loud for him. He ended up taking my money and buying 2 15s.

Of course I have to be different so here's my way of sizing these babies up for you guys!

There powered by 2 JBL 1200.1 amps running at 2 ohm (there optimized 1200 watts at both 1 and 2 ohms). There�s one for each sub of course. These babies have been tested by other people to put out 1300 watts before. I also have a 1 farad digital Lightning Audio cap on each sub. There is 0 awg ran from the Pac isolator to the yellow optima.
Don't mind the picture the cap is reading more than the 3.2 it shows... it should be 13.2 I didn't have the system cranked in this photo.

The box is sealed. It's around 1.7 to 1.8 ft per chamber with a divider of course. There's also around 3 to 4 lbs of polyfill total in the box. I know the box is a little small but hey it just makes them have a little more punch. There's not much worry about losing bass, believe me there's plenty to spare. I know the dust is unsightly but I'm going to seal the hatch seal up some weekend. For now I duct taped it. It looks redneck style but hey it keeps the dust from coming in the car and getting on the subs and amps.

These are not the best but I didn't have a tone cd and I was using a disposable camera also. These babies are supposed to have a 14mm xmax with 1000 watts to them.

So what you guys think? I know there the best 100 buck subs I have ever heard!! ;-)
I eventually pulled the box back out. You'll find pictures of the current box later on this site. Reasons for doing this: major pressure leaks, 1/2 the joints not properly sealed, cutouts for subs so large screws would not fit, and finally the box was 1/2 the minimum required via Kicker specs. This leads me to the next point. DO NOT TRUST OTHER PEOPLE TO WORK ON YOUR CAR IF YOU WANT EVERYTHING DONE CORRECTLY! I paid $200+ bucks for a piece of crap.
Site Index:
Page 1 - Introduction
Page 2 - Current Project To Do Lists
Page 3 - The Interior
Page 4 - 2 18" Kicker particle board box (old design) <-- You're here
Page 5 - 2 18" Kicker fiberglass box custom
Page 6 - General Mods
Page 7 - My Z20 Special Appearance Package
Page 8 - My fiberglass non AC heater box mold (1LE version that has been discontinued by GM)
Page 9 - New High-PO 383 in the build
Page 10 - Glasstek Hood Repair
Page 11 - Fiberglass Box How-To
Page 12 - My Xbox Game for 1� I bought from the store with proof
Page 13 - SOLD! Twin 62mm T4 Turbo Kit From BBS DESIGNS for 1200 HP! SOLD!
Page 14 - To Do List before motor completion