From Editor:
Well, I do not live anymore in stupid CA, I am on the EAST COAST now and in a state where there are no smog laws, so I got the turbo kit in a state that is legal.
Well turbo kit is installed, running 10 psi with 10@1 compression pistons, tuning with a wideband and a sound knock sensor (audio amplifier), 550cc injectors, setting fuel with an APEXi.
Before you say it is ghetto, it runs mean, steady 11 and 12 AFR readings, at 10 psi can give major head aches to Ford Mustangs, EVOs and STis... Of course it is not a super rocket, but I did it myself and it just pure rush of adrenaline. Car is so light, 2300 with me.


To give you an idea; left T3/T4 .50 vs. RX-7 Turbo II turbine.


There is a saying that if you are going to do it, do it right the first time. My advice, take it easy on buying stuff, don't do like many clubprotege members that go crazy buying forged pistons, Megasquirt, bunch of grounding kits, coil overs... Remember, its all about having fun, the 1.8 DOHC can hold 6-8 psi with stock injectors, ECU, but you MUST change the fuel pump and try to get your hands on a RX-7 Turbo II air flow meter. If your project goes well and you still want to burn more cash into a pizza car, then proceed with the above stated items. Be patient, this box I show in the pictures has been sitting in the closet for 1 year, the turbo kit, all I can do is just stare it as if it is still christmas... LOL. Learn to prioritize, do not let this hobby, the bragging rights, etc take the best of you. Anyway, enough of the schooling...


The A/C is out, no condenser lines etc, engine bay looks so much cleaner. I have cut both sides, did a quick check on the turbo and all seems to fit well. The turbo manifold on the pic is from EBAY, Miata Turbo Manifold... it comes with a T25 flange, took it to a welder, cut it out and placed a T3 flange. The T3 is huge compared to the RX-7 turbine, let me tell you, I had the TII before on another DOHC and it was sick; 1st, 2nd, 3rd... can't imagine how it is going to be with this one...
The cold compressor will be facing the passenger's side, I want as much space to the driver's side as there is the fan, downpipe, front engine mount, etc...

It is going to be nice, will keep you posted, once I paint it and install the kit, tuning, its going to be Mazda 4 all the Bueys...
ENJOY!

Corksport at Portland Oregon Mazda Grand Prix Challenge

FormulaD getting line-up, those cars are rad!
Check out, I took the pic right at the moment when the exhaust came off while he was drifting.

Mazda MX-5 Challenge, awesome adrenaline rush racing.
Its 2007 and I have not done much to the car besides a new RX-7 Air FLow Meter and regularly change the engine oil. Instead of using the oil filter from Mazda that is very small, I use the one for the Festiva that is much bigger and more effective. I am into R/C 1/8 On-Road nitro cars (I know I am a kid playing with toys and I dont get laid often), but is my new passion and keeps me off the streets, here is no mercy with ricers or whoever races on public roads.
I had a very nice speeding ticket of doing 77mph in a 55mph, 2 years have passed by since my last ticket. Damn funny, I passed him hauling ass on the Mazda, he pulled me over and told me the car was loud as hell.
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Its April 14 2007, 5:00 am Pacific Time. I have had a few offers $2,000 for the car like it is. I almost did cost I have some money saved and thought about getting a more reliable used car. I refused and love my little pocket rocket. The Mazda 323 with its all motor engine that all V-8 fanatics hate is awesome. Its quick, power on demand on hills around the neighborhood. It has never given me any major problems besides all the modifications I have done. I am, if I remember well, on my 4th year with it. I have friends who have stock WRX and dont dare to go against me. Its a thing of the past, I enjoy my car and yes F&F is lame. One thing I hate about the vehicle is the peeling white paint. Nothing a 2 dollar white spray cant resolve, most local shops want to charge me $2,000 because the paint is in such bad shape all the paint has to be stripped off.
I get all kinds of looks and laughs on the street which I am mature enough to laugh with them about me, I know its stupid, its dumb, its I dont give a shyt about it. I dont have that drive anymore and looking forward on buying a house, thats one of the reasons I dont care drive this POS everyday to and from work. All the money will go to a house deposit and a Thrift Savings Account I opened. If you dont know, you will not be 20 forever and will not be able to work all your life unless you are looking into Wal-Mart and just greeting people, once again at minimum wage or at K-Mart picking up clothes and orginizing shelves.
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10 Second Mazda 323 in the Major Leagues
Watch video so you learn how to kiss ass

My new GT-R Inatke manifold! It is really a work of art. This baby moved my powerband from 3 to 4th, 5th. The engine is somewaht lagging on its first gear. After that is another story, it does rev mean in the 7,000 rpm.
The pictures below show the VICS and distributor cables that need to be run. The brown cable is for the ditributor (4th right to left). The green cable is for VICS (4th left to right).

The white plug is the signal for the solenoid. If the secondary activators are removed inside the manifold the device is useless. I just ran the cabling to prevent the CEL to be on all the time.

The adjustable fuel pressure regulator is the one from a Honda SRX, luckily I had a flange from an old OBX AFPR that was a piece of junk and it worked perfect. It cost me only $35.00 on EBAY.
The engine bay with the new GT-R manifold, single direct port runners, no more dual runners or secondary butterflies to worry about.

At last, I finished my port and polished cylinder head. That bench work was endless and tedious, but well worth it.



With this setup I can beat 2003-2004 Subaru WRX (not the STi)
Can take care of Honda Preludes, GSR, Type R.
Update: 16MAR2006, just installed the test pipe on the car at the track. Its awesome how it sounds and how quickly it revs into the 7,500 rpms. Much more consistent, smooth solid top end acceleration. Of course, its for race track purposes only. I am thinking going for SOLO 1 events depending on my budget and how soon I get the certificates.


Update 04 September 2005:

Titanium pulley in page 2, comparison with OEM crankshaft pulley.
Nitto drag tires and lowered cut rear springs, Cross drilled rotors in Page 5...

Page 1: Engine swap, interior, exterior pics
Page 2: Exhaust system, ECM comparison, other turbo cars, favorite links (TECH Articles)
Page 3: Sound system, How to of PCV trick (emissions)
- Oil Catch a Can pics
Page 4: GTech quarter mile times (will post better pics soon and if I can videos).
Pics of engine bay with Thermo Tec. Also, pics of Turbo Escort GT, RIP.
Page 5: New tires, cut lowered suspension, Cylinder head porting, valve chamber pics. Of course victims list...LOL
Also on PAGE 5 cross drilled rotors swap.
Removed Power steering pump and rack and pinion.
Installed manual R&P instead.
Used P&S canister as a Oil Catch Can, check out pics on page 3.
Did a few mods in the exhaust cam gear and did a 95 mph trap speed.

At last, got my customized performance camshafts with more lift and duration. DO not go too aggressive or the compression will be lost and the power band will be above rev limit range which means the car will run slower.
Have not been installed yet, will post soon updates of results.

Stock vs. Performance Cams
- stock cams are hollow while the new ones are solid, much stronger than OEM.
Currently 14.80 @ 94 mph with Falken Azenis
0-60mph in 6.7 seconds.
*** Remember --- Les Shcwab Tires does not sell Falken, do not confuse Ziex with the imitation Zexius of Lesss Tires...
Below, My Mazda 323 engine swap
Three words about my car: JA JA JA!
Wait three more: Ja JA JA!
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The car passes California emissions:
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Cam gears were installed with high compression pistons. The intake cam was advanced 1 degree, exhaust cam retard 2.5 degrees. I improved .5 seconds in the quarter mile with the cam gears...
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Recall it has high compression pistons, shaved cylinder head (mild .20)and ported manifold.
I need performance camshafts with the ported manifold or change to a GTR manifold.

The OBX cam gears are from the Mazda Miata bought on EBAY, the only downside is both say I instead of one saying I and the other one E for the timing marks. It really does not matter as long as its poiting 90 degrees in conjunction with the crank damper timing mark. I have had them for almost 3 years now and works sweeeeet.
Change the bolts that come with the OBX cam gears, will slip sooner or later. Any ACE hardware will have Allen wrench black anodized bolts. Be sure the new bolts do not scrape against the side wall of the cylinder head when making a full rotation.

Rear rotors from Protege LX (Escort GT or Mercury Tracer will fit too).
Note: Need to change proportioning valve from the LX car.

Engine and transmission swap with axles and shift linkage all done in a weekend, not bad to be my first engine swap.

Images take a few seconds to upload

More engine bay pics on page 4 with Thermo Tec heat wrap.


Below the missing link provided by ClutchNet.


Clutch is a bit harsch when engaging on the first gears. It is expected when having this type of pressure plate, but when I need to be on the 7,000 rpm range it clamps like a lobster.
Here are other projects with the same engine, be it Mazda Miata, Escort GT, MX3, Sephia or a Protege all of them have the notorious BP engine.

Like I said above, these are NOT my cars, but a collection of engine bay pics I have gathered over the time to show different setups, turbo piping, wastegate locations, oil feed lines, turbo manifolds, and overall an idea of different BP builds.











More pictures of different cars on page 2.