News:

13.07.2009: Yeah, the both Justies are still alive. There's no rust on the mudguards any more. Check out the Pics on Page 1 & 2.
05.03.2005: Additional updates Pages 1 & 3
05.03.2005: Electric power windows now fitted, central locking system in progress
01.03.2005: heated mirrors
27.12.2004: speedometer bulbs replaced with LEDs
09.09.2004: No tire rub in curves any more - wided front mudguards, rear in progress
11.08.2004: 14 inch wheels
11.08.2004: Interesting facts about old Justy gearboxes, higher top-speed
11.08.2004: Introduction of my other Justy (page 2)

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Rear Mudguards: Finally I managed to widen the Mudguards. It was also an opurtunity to remove all the rust (properly!), to conservate and remove bumps. For the last point, I printed a sheet of lines to see the reflection of the bump in the light. See the pics below.

 The black repairing plate is mounted with aluminium rivets, just to drill the holes for the steel rivets later. So everything fits. Otherwise don't use aluminium at all, it will build up an element with the steel and oxidate.

Do you see the bump? You can remove it by pressing on the rear side. I needed to level out a little bit nevertheless.

Leveled out, but not yet painted.

Unfortunately, I haven't yet made a pic of this section since it has been filled, grounded and painted. But you can believe it looks like the car was factory new. Even with the widing work done, it looks like original. I let a professional do the paintig work and I recommend to everybody to take some money into the hand for this.

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Power Window: I bought original power window motors at ebay. I just got the mechanics and the switches. Cables and everything else was missing, so I developed my own printed circuit board:

There is an automatic mode implemented in the circuit, the window can close/open automatically and stops if there is an object in the window. The motor current is being measured and the maximum can be adjusted.

This circuit had just the same functionality as 1993-1994 justys with power windows. But I added another nice function:

If the window moves (up/down/auto) the duo-LED lights red, otherwise it remains green. The intensity can be set seperatly for both colors.

The motor and mechanics seemed to have the same dimensions, I just couldn't believe that they didn't fit at all. I found out that the justy door for power windows was completely different. So nearly the whole door had to be cut off. That was just nasty.

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I wanted to replace all the bulbs in the speedometer with LEDs. Changing all the backround light was too tricky (even the 25000mcd LEDs aren't bright enough) so I just changed the signaling bulbs.

This is a macro photo, these are 5mm LEDs with a resistor soldered on in the stock bulbholder

The battery and oil lights were burning permanently when equipped with LEDs, so I left the bulbs there. I should have installed a resistor in parallel to reach the necessairy current. A buzzer was installed to the oil lamp.

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Wheels: Alutec Zero 6x14H2, offset 35, www.alutec.de
Tires: Continental SportContact 185/50R14 77V

The tread of the tire is just covered by the mudguard. There was even some rub in the curves and when braking hard. I almost fixed that.

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In my papers, it just says that the rear wheels have to be checked for rub but indeed I noticed some rub at the front wheels too.

Much action: The front mudguards are being wided. Some wooden box was shipped, which was just appropriate for this job. The front mudguards are very elastic, so they have to be proped to make any deformation possible. Sure you noticed the small wooden thing, that serves for measurement. It is fixed by a strong magnet from a computer harddrive.

This pneumatic car-jack can be obtained for only 13 euro. For constant streching, the surface has to be adapted. A small alloy profile rail on wood was used.

To prevent cracks in the paint coat, it has to be warmed up. It has to be as hot as the car would stand in the sun for a long time.
Make sure you also prop that mudguard on both locations (see pic).

Hints for Justy drivers that want to upsize their tires to 185/50R14:
Better chose a wheel with the biggest possible offset (maximum is 38mm I think (mine are 35mm)), since doing this body work is very nasty.

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This is my Justy. Unfortunately I got busted by the police because of the lighted blue nozzles, so I had to remove them. They cached me up right in front of my home.

There's nothing better than driving a stock-looking car, driving up to some all-show-no-go car, swiching on the red and blue lights (see picture), and blast the doors off his ass with a turbocharged justy. That's the basic idea.

Lights:
The red light under the car: 3 LED panels like used in german traffic lights (with 60 LEDs each, very bright). The panels are form Siemens, I got them by chance and for nothing.

The blue nozzles are from Thailand, chrome, with a blue LED.

Very nice Sound System (more pictures soon):

the tweeters of the 6"x9" system are red, like the car

- RTO 900W Amp 4-ch (bridged to 3 mode, located under driver's seat, active X-over)
- Magnat Transforce 1000 Woofer (10" bandpass with a range of 18-500Hz 92dB/m/W) fills the whole luggage boot
- MacAudio 6"x9" speakers rear (installed in custom made wooden board)
- Sinus Live 4"x6" speakers front (60W sin. each !!!) additional 100 µF bipolar electrolyte capacitor as high pass filter (for protection)
- Sinus Live tweeters on dashboard
- Pioneer DEH-1300 CD head unit

other pictures:

Engine EF12 (stock condition, no changes yet)
Type EF12 MPFI - multi point fuel injection
Power: 75HP at 5600 RPM
Torque 96Nm at 2800 RPM
The engine has 3 cylinders and 9 valves and a displacement of 1200 ccm (73 cu. in).
Top Speed 170 km/h (106 mph)

The EF12 engine (picture shows carbed type)

Modifications to do in future:

Turbocharging...
I will keep the stock compression ratio at 9,1:1 - it will be possible to reach around 110HP. If this succeeds, it will be awesome!
Things that are not cleared yet:
-how the turbocharger will be supplyed with oil, an independant oil system with a seperate cooler would be nice
-how to tell the ignition computer that there is so much more air
-whats the duty cycle of the MPFI fuel nozzles? Perhaps bigger ones are needed. Can this be handled with a higher fuel pressure (stock 3bar/44PSI, not sure)?
-how to get a permission to drive with such a modification (big $$$), perhaps I even have to upgrade the brake system then.

Gearbox:
I'd like to change the ratio of the 5th gear. Now the 4th and 5th gears are very similar but suitable to get all the possible acceleration on the highway (4th: 6000rpm and 5th: 5200rpm at 150km/h, respectively). Since I often travel at 130km/h (4500rpm) that's not very ecomical. The gearbox itself has an added-on 5th gear, it was a 4-gear in the subaru rex/subaru 700 in the 80s. The 5th gearwheels are easy accessible because of that. I got the manual and doublechecked that. Let's hope that it fits.

I do own another Justy (1988 12GL, 1.2 68HP carbed, page 2). The gearbox is the same, except the 5th gear ratio. I don't know if this maches for non-european justies.

gear ratio (5th)
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1994 Justy 1200 (new shape), MPFI 75HP: 0,68 : 1
1994 Justy 1000 (new shape), carb 50HP: 0,68 : 1
1992* Justy 1200 (new shape), MPFI 75HP: 0,68 : 1
1992 Justy 1000 (new shape), carb 50HP: 0,68 : 1
1988* Justy 1200 (old shape), carb 68HP: 0,63 : 1
1987 Justy 1000 (old shape), carb 55HP: 0,63 : 1

Estimated new topspeed 172-176km/h with 0,63:1, before it was 170km/h. This is not a quantum leap, but the revs go down from 5900 to 5650 (@170; lower fuel comsumption!) That opens minor tuning possibilities so that you can reach speeds about 180km/h.

I got this information from old sale bruchures, except the * that I own myself. I don't have any relevant information about the carbed+new shape types (1989-1990).

Exhaust:
I will add another exhaust tip on the right side. It will be welt to the other side of the muffler, because a hole to the interior pipe of the muffler can be made. This whole thing will consist of stainless steel including the mid-pipe (custom made stainless steel exaust is cheaper than original spare parts). But it is impotant to isolate the stainless steel to the old part of the exaust to prevent corrosion. Because there is the opportunity, i'm planning smaller resonator holes in the mufflers interior (compared to stock), what will improve the engine sound, hence it will bypass lower frequencies a bit more.

If you plan to have a car for your lifetime, make sure it's a Subaru Justy