*** ENGINE/DRIVETRAIN/SUSPENSION INFO ***

**7th July 2005: ACT stage 1 clutch**
Yahoooooooooo! Installed this clutch kit along with new clutch master cylinder, and now the clutch action is nice and firm. The tranny feels more solid and a tad bit more sportscar-like. The simple joys of life...

**16th June 2005: DIY Randall Cowl CAI Intake Modification**

Having read about how the stock airbox can be modified to take in ambient air as opposed to engine temperature air, I cut a hole in the firewall and made a CAI which draws cooler air from the area behind the engine bay. I used duct-tape to cover my 'swiss-cheese' holes and so all the intake air is ducted from the cowl area.

I used a 52mm hole-cutter and then a dremel to smoothen and enlarge the hole to about 2.5 inches. Our stock airbox's snorkel is 2.5 inches, so I bought some 2.5" air ducts from the hardware store and hooked it to an adapter that I got specially made at my favourite workshop. I then painted the opening to prevent rusting, followed by a touch of RTV sealant around the adapter and when all dry, I hooked up the hose and started the engine.

The hole and the adapter. Didn't have to move any components at all, only removal of the stock intake snorkel.

View from the cowl.

Another view of the hole.

The duct view.

Yeah!

**Results: The intake growl has indeed increased with a noticeable 'gurgle' at initial WOT but SOTP feeling is one of stronger pull, less loss of breath at higher rpm. I went for a 120km test-drive and it feels more responsive. The best part? Done on the cheap! :>

*Engine Renewal summary*
Engine has been overhauled in 2003 and also fitted a new stock clutch while my mechanic was at it. *I ordered an ACT stage 1 clutch (26th April 2005) and will post pictures once I receive and install it.*

New radiator and fan assembly was fitted in December 2004 as the old unit cracked and the fan motor burnt itself out.

Power steering has been overhauled with the Miata power steering kit from Mazda, which was a bag of very expensive seals and rings! Now my steering rack is nice and firm, feels new with no more leaks as well.

Engine mounts, transmission mounts, lower ball joints replaced with new units. The car has less NVH and doesn't feel so 'rackety' anymore.
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*The engine mod list:*
HKS cams with 256 degree lift fitted with Flyin' Miata adjustable cam gears. (22nd Feb 2005)

Dyno tuning in process...adjusting the SAFC-2 and ITC to improve performance.

Throttle body bored bigger by 3mm, polished internally with profiled throttle flap as well.

Here's the stock throttle body and the non-aerodynamic valve. 3mm doesn't sound like much, but it is a lot of difference. Just for comparison, SPOON uses a throttle body enlarged by 4.5mm for their Honda racing applications.

The flywheel was machined and lightened by about 1/3 of original weight.These 2 ol' skool mods really increased the response of the engine.

To improve clutch feel, I installed the Goodridge steel-braided clutch hose. Can't really tell the difference, if any, but the old rubber clutch hose had cracks and was due for replacement anyway!

Custom 4-2-1 extractor/header (11th August 2004) wrapped in Thermo-Tec and Remus exhuast muffler, homologated for Miata (19th April 2004). Results: Sounds great, feels great! Placebo effect? Hmmm...dyno figures don't lie... :D

Converted to 4-wire oxygen sensor as seen on later Miata engines. This gives more accurate O2 readings and also 'warms' quicker than the single wire sensor.

Jackson Racing ignition cables bought to cure hesitation of the engine and it did exactly that.

During my last oil change, I installed Apexi Racing spark plugs, which is supposed to be better than Iridiums. Well, at least they did win the 'Costliest Plugs Ever Bought By Me' contest!

Electrical grounding with Hot Inazma unit connected to battery. I was sceptical at first, but I read good reviews from Import Tuner magazine on this product and decided to try it. I suppose it isn't doing any harm, at the very least.

I tune the engine with Apexi SAFC-2 air/fuel computer and a Super-ITC unit. These 2 work to give an optimum fuel/air ratio and also advancement of the timing. I may be getting either a Greddy E-Manage unit or HKS F-Con unit to replace these 2 separate units soon though.

SARD Fuel Pressure Regulator with Aeroquip hose.

I got me a SARD fuel regulator to improve engine response due to an increase in fuel pressure. The faster the fuel can get to the injectors, the quicker it can combust, the quicker the engine accelerates...(11th April 2004)

...especially since my 230cc/min fuel injectors from a 1.8L Miata helps deliver the fuel flow that my SAFC unit is demanding! More air + More fuel = MORE POWER!

This is where the air comes in...an ARC intake chamber with K&N filter panel. One of my favourite mods, it has an enlarged belly which gives a stored charge of air on throttle demand. Plus it looks very nice, too!(12th Sept 2003)

Carbing oil catch tank that, er, catches residual blow-by oil from the engine to the intake manifold.(9th April 2005)

Hose Technique silicon hoses to dress up the engine bay a little.(12th May 2004)

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*Suspension mod list*

I am using Lanny's alignment specs: Alignment Specs

I am using Koni Yellows, set to full soft, with Eibach springs. I find this setting sufficiently stiffer than my previous stock shocks which I bought brand new and had run it for about 6 months before switching to this current setup.

Sway bar bushings replaced with Powerflex polyurethane units, all sway bar endlinks replaced with new stock items.

Front strut bar is from Mazdaspeed. Lightweight and quality construction.(15th September 2004)

Rear strut bar from Carbing. Lightweight and quality construction.(16th May 2005)

Front lower brace from Racing Beat. Strong and quality construction.

After installing all the struts and braces, the shimmy is gone, the car handles sharper and generally feels more solid. I'm using the stock rear lower brace from Mazda...though the Racing Beat rear brace looks increasingly tempting!